Farrgo

Dave is a very strong willed climber. My partner and I waited for a weather break at Taullipampa last year at the same time Dave was attempting a new route on Taulliraju. Every day we expected to see them come down when the afternoon storm hit, but they just kept going. An undeniably proud accomplishment.

I have a buddy who does road construction with the state, he mentioned that several years ago there were plans to put a pullout overlook above Ozone. Maybe those are being considered again?

My buddy is a local and owns a copy, I didn't realize it was hard to get ahold of.

Second (or third) the Wild Things Ice Sac, its a great pack striped down for alpine climbing. Make sure to get one without tool tubes, or get it modified, as they don't accept leashless tools that well or at all. I've heard a lot of grumbling about the new BD line. The Shadow is a great pack, but the predator seems to have some durability issues and also seems less like a climbing pack and more like a backpacking one. I definately would not recommend the Sphynx, even though I own one. You can't overfill it because of the lid design, therefore its hard to carry a rope. I only break this pack out for day trips and even then I leave stuff behind. Go for something with a fully floating lid so you can fill it up and strap the rope on top.

There's actually been quite a bit of snow as of late and some warm temps, so its not exactly what I've dreamed. Maple Canyon is having a very fat year, we climbed Get Whacked and Cobble Crusher and had a go (unsuccessful) on Frankenchrist. With over a foot and half of snow in the forcast for tonight its either gonna be some sheltered mixed climb or a skiing day. FYI the fifth pitch of STH was definatly worth it, solid 5. The sixth pitch is short, bolt protected, and only partly formed. Regardless it would go with just a few burly moves.

I actually just got on this one two days ago. Great climb, but make sure you're there before the junk show arrives. The Utah ice climbing (Falcon press?) and the mixed guide for Provo and Santaquin Canyons will get you headed to the right spots. I would venture a guess that early March will still be ice climbing time.

I guess one man's "in" is anothers "out." Anyhow, Pete's Pile is not in great shape, but I climbed there yesterday and stuff will go. Anything west-facing is delamed (sp?). Make an effort and go check stuff out, you'll be suprised what you find.

Get a look at Snoqualmie, how sketchy is the snow pack?

I climbed there a couple April's ago, it was cold. But we only saw one other party, didn't get rained on, and camped for free.

I wouldn't count on this board for the latest info. I know that I've driven out there many times and seen some climbable ice without any mentions here.

My Mammut lines were didn't freeze up at all for the first season or so... now they pretty much always freeze. I'm not sure that Beal's dry treatment would last that much longer, but then again, it depends on how much you climb. For skinny lines, use a belay device with teeth like the ATC guide. Also you can add another biner while descending to increase friciton.

Do you need 70ms? As quite few companies do not offer 70m half ropes, is weight a huge issue? I've climbed on the both the Mammut Genesis and the Mammut Phoenix and really liked them. I haven't liked anything beal has put out yet. I've heard the new half rope from Metolius is nice.

Definately not as easy to navigate as xfit, but there's a lot of good info. I think the main problem is how esoteric some of his excercises are... I mean unless you have a semi-truck tire lying around. Check out the jonesworthy workout, its a good one.

Looks like avy danger will sort itself out enough for some alpine. Something at Snoqualmie Pass or Mt. Hood area. I've got lots of ideas but no partners. -Nate

Did you go after the route as described in Johnson's book? If so, there is a more direct route which leaves the road before you reach the refugio. I think it might be in the Sherman guide... Andino will have it. On a side note, I'm jealous and hope to be down there again myself this summer.

Grivel Rambocomp Monopoints Used only once. Great crampons, they're rigid for steep ice and have huge rake points to thrutch up mixed routes. My recent financial downturn (read: school) means I can no longer justify owning three pairs of crampons and a pair of fruit boots. Yours shipped $100

I wouldn't get your hopes up for the fang. I lived there for an entire season and it never touched down. I don't remember any avalanche danger on these climbs... they're pretty well set in the woods. If the fang isn't in they're still a lot of other stuff to climb. Try the Thang for one, Secret Probation is nice and you can head up to the Belfry and try some of the hard Purnell mixed routes or just run up the Pencil and Eraser.

Anyone have a copy sitting around they don't want? -Nate

I'm very excited to try out these tools. I'll probably be retiring my quarks in the next year or two and the new cobras are the current frontrunners. Has anyone else heard about a new quark in the works? A few changes (i.e. completely revising how they attach the picks... oh ya and redesigning the picks) and the quark would gain some ground. I have some brand loyalty for BD stuff too... just not the first year they make a product.

I would definately recommend against the unparalleled series unless you like watching people not land jumps and ski tracked up 20 degree snow.

The pineapple express is not nearly as bad as once predicted. I bet that there is plenty to be done starting this wednesday or so... wish I could get out but just one more week of school to go.

Jason's route sounds like a gem. I wouldn't have thought that those mountains would have any significant ice features. The rock is really solid though, probably just a little bit of ice would make for a scrappy adventure.

Twin Sisters are fun and you can pretty much climb something on them in just about any weather conditions. I've never heard of any ice climbing out there... but mabey Dave knows something I don't. This is on N Twin above the obelisk? (can't remember what that feature is called).

I'll be heading to UT right around that time as well. Shoot me a pm and we'll set something up...

The Metolius Monsters are listed as doubles, but the metolius website shows data for using them as doubles and as twins? Are they dually rated?