Farrgo

Thanks again Joseph for all the work you put out there. IMO TF pitch one doesn't need anymore pins on it, especially after I dug out that new stopper placement. Second Wind looks pretty clean. I think it needs a new bolt on the traverse in from blownout. I believe there is a high and low traverse? One is protected by a button head and the other is protected by a very sketchy 1/4. Has anyone attempted a direct? Looks like it could be very technical rp work.

Happy hooking!

Ya I get it now. There were some fist jams on the first pitch, I think I used two #3s. I assumed it was just a random access pitch for the business up higher. Other than the first roof which is pretty strenous, I think this climb is quite a bit easier than Steppenwolf. Partially that might be due to the commitment factor on Steppenwolf. There are a couple cruxy areas where you really have to punch it between gear. Thanks for cleaning up a classic. This one needs to get climbed a lot more! I would be stoked if we could get more climbers off the Dod's area/Beacon tower/SE corner circiut and have some of these amazing lines get cleaned up and climbed more. I don't know why climbs like Bears in Heat (single best pitch at Beacon!), Steppenwolf, or Takes Fist don't get climbed more. They are certainly as high of quality as anything else at the rock. Has anybody taken a look at Second Wind (next to Blownout) that line is just begging to be cleaned up and climbed more often. So many lines that would be great if we just had enough climbers to keep them in shape.

Think I just got on this today? I agree with the hardest part of the first pitch being that insecure 5.9 section. However, I cleaned out a solid finger lock / stopper placement to protect it. On the second pitch I climbed from two bolts in a dark water streak with no webbing up for ten feet, traversed right under the roof, then up. Only thing was, I didn't use any of the #2 or #3's I brought with me. It never got bigger than #1 and was mostly #.4s. Where was I?

How about the Crumbling. There probably isn't one move on that harder than 11-. I can think of a 10a at Beacon that is more difficult.

Go back for more than a few hours and you'll see even more rockfall. Lots of holds, flakes, etc. ready to go. In particular, a key hold on the Left Shield Wall route, is loose and would definately ruin the belayer's day (and then the belayee's about half a second later) if it broke. Also, it would make the route the areas newest 5.12 and by that I mean 5.11.

I also don't use the swivel. It my experience it didn't keep the umbillicals untangled it just added an ounce or two to the set up. Secondly, I think they would be least useful on alpine routes in particularly where you are generally cruising up big features rather than mixing it up (I know depends on the route).

Probably will have better luck posting this on SummitPost.

just keep the rope secured with the lid... never has been a problem for me. or if you plan on going without the lid and can't fit the rope in the pack have your local shop sew one on... it should cost you $5.

Ice tools and rock shoes. They had demos to climb on last year so you probably don't need to bring some old beaters. If you haven't gone the comp is fun... or alternatively just drinking beer is argueably more fun.

Maybe its not as much of a problem as I thought here's a link about it http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=156 . As far as the altitude issue, I guess it depends on how much your feet swell. I've never had my feet swell much at altitude so I don't factor that in much, my buddy however has his feet go up a full size. Its easier to make a boot thats too big fit than too small.

I wear the same size in all La Sportiva boots including the Nuptse's. One thing to keep in mind is that the toe box is tight... very tight. I tried on many pairs and found that no matter what size you get your toes will be pinched a bit. Also, I've read that the Nuptse liners are not meant to be replaced with intuitions... not that that means you can't or shouldn't, just what I heard.

This somewhat recent TR has some very pertinent picutres: Ruth Peak TR

I know this one for sure... but I'll hold off since I got the last one.

First 5 feet of CBR?

FYI there is a wasp nest on Windsurfer. It's located in a finger crack on the right side at the final bulge.

Bump. Don't make me go to the gym!

Anyone want to hit up Beacon on Thursday? I can climb anytime that day. -Nate (360) 903 7370

Looking to rideshare to Yosemite/Sierra eastside Leaving August 1, returning August 10-12 (negotiable) Live in Portland, OR Will be driving soccer mom mini-van that gets low 20s -Nate

Climbed this route yesterday. Came in from Teanaway. No crampons needed, trail is essentially snow-free until the glacier and Cascadian is about half snow. Missed the first pitch apparently. Climbed a very difficult, mossy straight-in finger crack but reached the base of the perfect corner just fine. The perfect corner is great but apparently Kearney put up the route with a 15m rope because we linked those three pitches into one pitch. Don't go too high on the corner, the crack ends and you'll be a long way up with no pro. P.S. there is a micro stoper and biner way up there if someone wants some booty. All in all the pitches near the corner are great and everything else is just so-so. Took doubles from green alien to red camalot and singles in blue alien, #2, #3, and #4 camalots. Seemed to be the perfect rack. Used just about everything each pitch.

I think the sun hits the wall at 2pm. Get to the chimneys by then and you'll be plenty high to not suffer too much.

The bar at the Overland Lodge has pitchers of microbrew for $6.25 and pints of Coors (for non-NWeners) $1. Food is the usual bar variety.

JosephH, I can't tell where it originated from, but I guess it was from above the standard SE start. I saw a couple volleys of rock come down and they all landed beyond the trail away from the tracks. Pretty good sized rocks too, wear your helmet.

I can vouch for the rockfall issue. Climbed Cruising to the Corner earlier today and saw quite a bit of rockfall coming off to the West. Of course, there were a couple climbers out and they might have been trundling... not sure.

Got to take a break sometime... but always Blanca dreaming.