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Everything posted by Farrgo
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I only have a vague recollection... but couldn't the bolts on Borderline use an upgrade? Definate 2nd on Jensen's Ridge.
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Damn... do I want to buy new Fusions or have old Fusions and new Nomics... choices. On a side note... who needs to wait for October, we are in full-on ice season down south.
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Brian, I'm pretty sure Climbmax in Portland has a couple in stock... give them a call.
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I use this set up quite a bit for ridge routes. It's an easy, low-drag system while simul climbing, but can be extended out for longer pitches. I've always tied in with one person tied into both ends, and the other attached via figure 8 and locker.
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I thought that it was a Sterling, but didn't want to say so and have somebody call me on it. At any rate, all those Rainier climbers I saw lugging 60m 10mm ropes up to Muir on Saturday should thinking about taking 6 lbs out of their packs.
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I've seam sealed my tent. The seams definately won't leak, it all the fabric between the seams that will. I was actually suprised how little rain it took to cause a leak. Certainly nothing by NW standards.
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BD Firstlight isn't 4-season, it's 1-season. I have sat out a few rainstorms in a firstlight and it just doesn't hold up. Think long bivis with chinese water torture. This tent is only appropriate when it is too cold to rain.
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I'm not sure we should be kicking around potential names unless its firmly been established who did it. That being said, Martin's dad cleaned up a nice route. I agree with Dave its a great moderate addition to that end of the crag.
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Drink a few more high life's and jeans swimming will make perfect sense.
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Slumberjack Sleping Bag 0F $40 In great shape, synthetic fill size regular. Wild Country Tech Friend .5 $25 Used in good condition. SMC Deadman $10. Carried but never used. Local pick up or shipping extra.
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Last year when I was buying a new rope system I did the math on this whole single, twin, double debate. Single + tag line is the absolute lightest IF you buy the spectra 5.5 as your tag line. Keep in mind this will cost you about 2x the cost of a single line. Twin ropes will be lighter if you opt for a single + 6mm tag line. Double ropes are definately heavier. Here's the math: Mammut Serenity 70m @ 52g/m = 8 lbs Spectra 5.5mm 70m @ 16g/m = 2.5 lbs 6mm cord 70m @ 26g/m = 4 lbs Mammut Phoenix (dbl) 140m @ 41g/m = 12.7 Beal Ice Twin 140m @ 37g/m = 11.4 lbs Single + Spectra = 10.5 lbs Twins = 11.4 lbs Single + 6mm = 12 lbs Double = 12.7 lbs Some newer ropes may have come out, but when I did these calculations these were the lightest ropes for each catagory I could find. Keep in mind there is more to a rope system than just the weight. Different systems are better for different routes.
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I think it would be a shame to modify a tool specifically designed to be a lightweight alpine tool to make it heavier for ice climbing. If your heading down that road, why not just buy an ice tool?
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Saw it yesterday, looks essentially the same as Chad's pics but probably a little bit more sparse. Get after it while the getting's good, definately Spring on Mt. Hood.
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Black Diamond Gizmo Headlamp NWT $10 SOLD Mammut Mirage Harness L NWT $30 Titanium Screw $10 Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw 13cm $25 SOLD Black Diamond Turbo Screw 10cm $15 SOLD 2 Black Diamond Turbo Express Screws 16cm $25 (each) SOLD Harness and headlamp are completely unused and in original packaging. Turbo Express and Laser Sonic screws are sharp and place well. Turbo screw has tasted rock a couple times, but it a good go to screw on scrappy routes. Pick up in PDX area or shipping, for a little extra.
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2nd Peru... see you there.
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first ascent [TR] Strobach - FA: Ponderosa Pillar WI5 65m 2/1/2009
Farrgo replied to powderhound's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Everything was still there as of Saturday. It was pretty warm out all last week and routes are now getting afternoon sun. There was significantly less ice than shown in the pictures here. Maybe this weather system will change that. -
It's hard to compete when 10,000 students already have free gym membership to WWU.
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Ice screw used but with lots of life left. Drytool gloves have been worn a few times but still look mint. Petzl Laser Sonic 13cm $25 BD Drytool gloves size M $25
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Yocum and 40 degree temps, I think I've heard this story before.
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Has anyone been venturing out into the Sno-pass area since the highways reopened? Any general impression on the snow pack, temps, routes?