Farrgo

Awesome! Got up a 6k classic peak and attempted another in just 2-weeks. Way to get after it.

Buy the WA Ice book or just type Strobach into Google. Definitely some stuff to be had in Central and Eastern Oregon... gonna have to dig a lot deeper for that info though.

Try Strobach long mostly dependable season. The Gorge freezes for 3-4 days each year. Cooper Spur ice will probably be in shape in a week or so (already some forming last week).

New approach cuts around the other side of the like (i.e. the near side). Cross @ the log jam and look for cairns. It will save an hour easy.

Luckily someone recently put together just such a topo: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/975043/Colchuck_Balanced_Rock#Post975043 Thanks for clearing up the N Buttress/1984 line confusion. I found the Beckey guide very confusing (go figure). So the '84 line went into the scar, but then that portion of the route fell off? There are so many quality cracks on that face there is probably another 10 high quality routes to be done.

Did Stone Rodeo get checked our recently?

I've had my Firstlight out in some pretty heavy winds with no problems. I think that what you need to realize is that the firstlight is a niche tent. It may be billed as a three-season(?) but in my mind it is a one-season tent: cold. Unless you are winter climbing this probably isn't the tent for you. In fact, I've had this tent for four years and used it only three times in the Cascades (all with substantial below freezing temps). You will need a quiver of tents and shelter systems if you get something as specialized as the firstlight. If you want something that will be you go-to tent (good for any condition, light but not the lightest, etc.) then look elsewhere.

I liked the old fusions in general (not for alpine), but the newer tools are a huge step up. Though people have and do climb alpine ice with old fusions the quarks and cobras are WAY better for that purpose than the old fusions. I guess it depends on how much you're going to climb. If you might do one climb per year, then why spend $600? If your going to get out every other weekend.... you'll wish you spent it sooner.

Wow... I would hope that I'm not the Cascades version of the Petit Dru' Russians either. Though there has obviously been a HUGE amount of rock fall in recent years the features that remained seemed solid (granted we didn't venture toward the right edge of the rock scar). The looseness was almost entirely scree left on ledges and can be avoided if you climb with care. I don't expect that this route will ever be popular, especially given the rock quality on other parts of the face. However, the second pitch was one of the best crack pitch I've ever climbed and would recommend it be repeated if only for the first two pitches.

Geogratis is the ticket. Thanks for the reply. I wish we had something like that for the states (we don't do we?).

Anybody know a good shop to buy topo maps in Vancouver, BC? Need a pretty obscure quad, so a well-stocked shop is a must. -Nate

I don't need bolts... I would settle for people not booty-ing pins and stoppers from the rap stations.

Still tons of terrain up there to be climbed. As for descent anchors, the two bolt anchor works well for your routes but it is pretty/really hard to reach those bolts from either skylight. We have a pretty good anchor (could be better) just above March Madness. If an anchor could be established from each skylight, it would be just two rapells back to the base.

Where are your lines in relation to the ones I put there?

I pulled this picture off of this site a few months ago. It's obviously not the best shot of the face but it might be the ball rolling. I'm not sure where your route went Wayne. The blue line is what Colin and I did in December it finishes in the right skylight (with the bolt). My understanding was that your line finished in the same spot (hence the bolt) but started further left. So I penciled in the yellow line but its just a guess. The red line is the route that Dan, Colin and myself climbed. It finishes in the left skylight. I know that at least a few other PDX climbers have been out on the face within recent years. Anybody have some lines to contribute? The wall has so many different possible routes depending on conditions and how hard you want to push it. We need a better descent route though!

Ya its worth it... just ante up for one. I also use the OR version. The BD only has six slots, but if your using mainly shorter screws you can oppose the ends and you should be just fine.

It's completely white.

I had four packs of sharkies and half a german chocolate cake cookie.

Don't know if you can still find these but I have a couple pairs of La Sportiva sandles that are similar to Chacos. I got them for $20 and they've been awesome.

I believe Wayne Wallace's web page had a Black Spider topo on it. You probably won't get a lot of information due to how ephermal and seldom climbed these routes are. Also because it tends to take a lot of work to find the Spider in condition I doubt many people will want to give up their hard earned info.

Start mixed climbing it will make ice feel easy. The falls are a lot safer too (use your judgement though).

Really Bill? You had to go there. And isn't it country hand jive jubilee?

Wow... that's like getting lost in the parking lot at T-line.

There was an old PDX bouldering guide. I think the PRG carried it, I'm fairly certain its not there now. Maybe you can find it online?

I climbed six weeks to the day after I broke my clavicle.