fern

last pitch of the Burgner-Stanley on Prusik.

Cannabis and Wrist Twister both go clean. Black Dyke probably goes clean since it's now bolted for free climbing. For many routes (U wall excepted) it depends on the condition/availability of in situ fixed 'heads. Also in many cases just cause the routes go clean doesn't mean that you will get beat up for nailing them.

there is a bolt on the last pitch. It is 3/8" though maybe a little rusty.

a lot depends on whether you will be moving through bad weather or just hanging in the tent. Also the temperature. If it's warm and raining sometimes it's ok to forgo any type of rainshell and just strip down to the bare minimum, and let a few items of clothes get soaked while the rest is packed up waterproof in the pack. In the summer I usually carry cheapo coated nylon rainwear, sometimes a light umbrella too.

if that doesn't work just grab her boobs

This guidebook is now out. A Guide to Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, authored by Jeremy Frimer. Lots of awesome photos.

the new hut is being built right now up there. So lots of people have been in there and will be in there. (not me though) here's some info on the hut, and there is a photo album with pictures of the area from may. http://www.jimhaberlfund.org/tantalushut/news.htm

I wouldn't look at the tree bivi as much of an option. It would be an uncomfortable night, there isn't much room there at all, and none of it is flat. If you are hauling anyways you may as well haul a ledge.

Matt, I don't think the Tradmaster's would be a good slab shoes - they are soooo stiff. I think they are "trad" in an Earl Wiggans way, great for mileage on wide cracks. Caveat, I have not worn them myself, but spent time in Indian Ck with a fellow climbing in them. He had zero problem on hand or wider cracks, and zero success on climbs requiring more sensitive footwork. I agree with RuMR that Miura's sound like they might suit you - IF they fit, as in my experience there is a fit-schism between a 5.10 foot and a La Sprotiva foot.

if Murray stands outside and he is wet: It is raining if Murray stands outside and is leaning: It is windy if Murray stands outside and is squinting: It is sunny if Murray stands outside and is turning white: It is snowing where is the Murray-cam?

Actually it just sounds like jibberish, even without the geographical clanger. No, not even in the stop-press at the back. Destined to be mossed over. Time to strip the hangers. Overall though I am impressed with the guide. It has a few Elaho hallmarks such as route ratings mismatched between the text and the photos, and it's missing a few crag climbs that I can see - but in comparison to the improvement in photo quality and clarity, those are trivial complaints. I was intrigued by several instances of what appeared to me to be a low-key plea to implement a policy of ongoing selective logging in the Smoke Bluffs to improve the climbing ambiance. Lot's of 'then-and-now' photo comparisons with 'look how bushy it has gotten!!!' type captions throughout.

the Apron is in the Smoke Bluffs now?

pg 329:

I have a golden eagle pass, but I don't know how I am supposed to display it at NWFP required locations. The NP/GE pass is a wallet card - am I just supposed to leave it on the dashboard? Anybody know?

so she gets to be his beard and a clamhead. bearded clamhead ... hee .

If you purchased a Barryvox since August, you might have a model that could develop cracks in the casing, allowing moisture to seep in. Any older Barryvox (i.e. you didn't get a CDROM with it) is fine. Any Barryvox with a sticker "New Casing" on the box is fine. The following link has more: http://www.barryvox.com/productfamily/mammut/downloads/recallbarryvox_information_e.pdf

Tideswell, Derbyshire (July 15th 2004) – Wild Country Ltd announce the recall of all Helium karabiners supplied between April and July 2004. In-process testing has identified a problem with a limited number of karabiners concerning the location of the gate on the nose of the karabiner under load. Should this problem occur in use the minimum breaking strength of the karabiner would be the "Gate Open" strength of 10kN. Please arrange for the immediate return of all Helium karabiners to; Wild Country Ltd, Meverill Rd, Tideswell, nr Buxton, Derbyshire, SK17 8PY, United Kingdom. Or to the store from which they were purchased The products concerned are; HELIUM - CLEAN WIRE - RED or SILVER HELIUM 10MM DYNEEMA Quickdraw13 or 18cm OXYGEN-HELIUM 12mm Quickdraw 10 or 15 cm The karabiners are marked with Batch Codes; AAA, AAB, AAC, AAD, AAE and AAF All karabiners returned will be inspected and further testing will be undertaken. We will restock this karabiner as soon as possible. We will be posting information on web-sites, in Internet "Chat Rooms", climbing walls, national climbing publications and other media as deemed appropriate. For help with identifying the product or for further information on the recall please contact us on; + 44 (0)1298 871010.

NEWS from CPSC U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE March 11, 2005 Release # 05-134 Firm’s Recall Hotline: (800) 826-1598 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908 CPSC, Montrail Inc. Announce Recall of Crampons; Products Used for Ice Climbing and Mountaineering WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission announces the following recall in voluntary cooperation with the firm below. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of product: Crampons (used for ice climbing and mountaineering) Units: 969 pairs Manufacturer: Montrail Inc., of Seattle, Wash. Hazard: The vertical rails at the front of these crampons can break, which could result in falls and injuries to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Montrail has received three reports of crampons breaking. No injuries were reported. Description: The recall includes models I354, I356, and K364 sold under brand names I.C.E. 9 and Khumbu. The recall includes products with UPC numbers beginning with 619120036 and ending with 204, 211, 46! 4, or 457. These model and UPC numbers are listed only on the packaging, but not on the products themselves. Sold at: Outdoor equipment retailers nationwide from September 2003 through Feb. 1, 2005 for between $135 and $185. Manufactured in: Korea Remedy: Consumers should stop using these crampons immediately and contact Montrail to find out how to return them and for further recall details. Consumer Contact: Contact Montrail toll-free at (800) 826-1598 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. PST Monday through Friday.

you can get replacements issued here

This is a thread for posting recall notices for shitty gear

No, sadly he did not survive. But his body was recovered finally

much like "mock leading" is just deluded toproping

they are made in the same factory

then she'd get even MORE upset if he didn't call regularily

minnesota ice climbing! WICKED!!!!!