fern

this is so off topic but just to go with the flow: If you have ever had a travelling partner turned around at the border (for example because your buddy got busted once) while you were there, consider that it is possible that YOUR file will also reflect having been rejected entry - regardless of whether or not you have any naughty history.

I think Timm@y is thinking of either the 10/15-16 or 10/21-23 for the Smith party.

thanks

I don't have Burdo's book but I do have the Goldie/Johnston topo . Can anyone give me a quick description of where this is in relation to the main highway, how to find the base? thanks

I went in here again and climbed the E.Ridge last weekend. The Chance Creek FSR is still in good shape for highclearance 4WD access almost to treeline. This access is probably shorter and easier than the access described in Matt Gunn's new scrambles guidebook.

the last time I retrieved and returned a single cam off a crag route I got a sixer+$20 cash. If I retrieve your whole rack off a mountain route how does that scale up? A keg + downpayment on a new snowmobile? I might go for that

The bolts on Snake Dike now are almost all post FA, they were placed a while (months?) after the FA when the FAist realized that there was potential for a popular moderate, but they had not placed adequate anchors or protection bolts on their FA - they gave permission for some other dudes to go hammer a few more in. this has been written about in a few places. Probably "Camp 4" by Roper, climbing mags etc.

sounds like you got up most of the greasy classics

Western Mtneering are good quality and pretty roomy compared to some mummy styles bags.

upload them to the gallery, with appropriate captions. I will help you insert them into your TR if desired.

there's a link in the Gear Recalls thread

this thread is so dumb. when will it be shipped to Spray?

I did the calculation once, and I think it was an array of CDs about 16' in diameter in full sun in my backyard would focus enough to melt lead. So far I haven't found a use for molten lead in my everyday life ... but the plans are on the shelf just in case.

you could build a solar collector out of all those free AOL cds etc. and keep them outta the landfill of course someone is going to lament that a poor condor might fly in front of the focussed beam and get vaporized and the whole project will be scrapped

You aren't making much sense about what exactly your problem is. So it's a bit hard to formulate any advice to fix it. But I wish you luck

just roll it up and tie it on? you need a crazy carpet sled? you want to borrow mine?

the park rangers climb it because they have a boat to cross the lake. The overland approach keeps the crowds away, like you say, 3p not worth the walk unless you are doing a longer traverse. Sometimes spring snow conditions make it feasible to ride a snowmobile up high on Brohm ridge then ski-tour a high route around to climb the Sphinx. My memory is fuzzy, but maybe a 14hr R.T to squamish is what I was told? It is definitely a beautiful area, year round.

thanks Mike Warren

the bear closure was still in on the 31st. but your best bet would be to call Parks

don't stop believing. hold on to the feeling.

Last week there was a fire across the street at a refrigerated storage place. My house got evacuated and I had to go to work in my pyjamas. Every day since last wednesday they have been shovelling rotting sides of beef with bulldozers out into 80+ deg heat then loading them into containers for landfill. The crows have started picking up pepperoni sticks and dropping them in my yard. It doesn't smell very good. Thank goodness for air-conditioning. It reminded me of a story I read here once about a homeless person sitting on a school fence in seattle eating raw rotten chicken that he'd got out of a dumpster. But I couldn't find the thread. oh well

Chopicalqui is a possibility - though it's way busier this year than most years due to being the backup for many parties that had planned on Huascaran or Alpamayo which are both in bad shape I guess. www.cosleyhouston.com is a good source for beta on the Blanca and they have some TRs and photos from earlier this season. Supposedly there's a cool 5.8ish alpine granite ridge route on Huamashraju ... my memory is a little fuzzy ... maybe it is in Quebrada Quilquayhuanca or something? If you ask around some of the local climbers though you might find out more. Could be a fun option if the snow/ice routes are out of shape

no kidding. why do you need to be honest to nosy strangers? say whatever you want to get them to fuck off fastest.

Squats! proper ones with an olympic bar and any other resistance training exercise that works your body in all kinds of directions between your trunk and knees. www.bodyresults.com has good info on exercises and training for climbing.

when I do stacked-rope raps I just use 2 slings. 1 for each side of the rope clipped off on a gear loop. You need loops of diminishing length from bottom to top to get the stacks to feed cleanly. Personally I wouldn't stack over the shoulder cause it's too close to getting myself strangled if there is a tangle. Why carry an extra non versatile widget? That thing is probably european