Figger_Eight

teaching slab climbing

Why don't you go do so? I know Ian and he is anything but someone who artificially inflates grades. If he says it's a grade IV, I trust him that it's a grade IV. this.

FF usually gets a stock of "tear sheets" comparing the Kerlon fabrics with normal ripstop nylon (uncoated). Squares of the 3 fabrics are on the same sheet of paper with a small cut started on the bottom and the idea is to try to tear the sheets in half. Ripstop nylon is pretty easy to split with two hands. The Kerlon is damn near impossible to pull apart with two people. The great thing about Hilleberg is that their North American HQ is right over in Bellevue where Petra Hilleberg works. You can get any tent in their lineup within 24 hours, and if you have any doubt about their fabric strength I'm sure they'd send you a fabric sample.

I second this. This is a great book.

And Fred Stanley and Fred Dunham used to enjoy it before it was overrun with eastsiders. Climbers used to enjoy it until it was overrun with Gorge concert campers.

cat tracks can be some of the most hazardous places to be, depending on where it is on the resort. j_b's right...you have a lot of people going mach 5 in a very narrow corridor.

lol I climbed off my couch, approached my fridge and on-sighted the bottle cap. I pushed a new route around the far side of my kitchen table, with some mandatory aid moves when I had to grab my sleeping dog's collar to move him out of the way.

How much space do you have behind your heel when your toe is touching the front? You generally have to run the Omegas another size larger to accommodate the thicker Intuitions to begin with...

Montbell sizing is based on the Asian market and is upsized for North America. In many cases, still, it isn't quite enough. I'm happy that my down jacket is sized perfectly to fit over what I wear on approach, because that's how I use it, especially when ski touring. When you hop up to the Frontpoint, that model gives you a bit more room. I have a Millet synthetic belay jacket that fits over everything when I'm climbing. Fit is quite different for each manufacturer for sure; they all use different fit models to base their sizes off of. Pullovers are generally more roomy through the torso because they have to fit over the shoulders and head; jackets are generally more slender because they don't have to.

If you like everything about the nanopuff except for the boxy fit, try the full zip jacket. Pullovers have to be boxy so you can, you know, pull it over. I have a 42" chest and a 33" waist. My nanopuff goes skiing with me, and I'll take my Mammut or Montbell climbing (to go under the shell). My go-to piece though is my Rab Vapour Rise. It's easily one of the best active tops/insulation I've ever owned.

I have Fred Flinstone feet and the Boreals are a good fit...maybe worth checking out.

Good luck Rob!

The great majority of the increase comes in hiring 3 full time climbing rangers and 1 additional laborer to help supply the high camp (iirc) which is why I asked the question about having volunteers on the mountain. I whole heartedly agree with Stefan's position that upper mountain patrols operate in pairs, but I think having a full blown climbing ranger at Paradise to sell me a permit is a little bit of overkill.

It was pretty informative and a very worthwhile discussion. A big thanks to David over at Marmot for organizing and really getting behind this meeting. A lot of answers were given and some misconceptions cleared up by Stefan and David (Uberuaga) for the 20-25 folks who showed up. Good to see some folks really fired up about the issue and letting the park service know their opinions.

Despite there being a very slight bit of truth to this, I'm pretty glad we aren't all stuck with having to climb in coated nylon. Yup, there is such a thing as over-analyzing fabrics to the point where folks make a very big deal about inconsequential manufacturer provided bullet point, and the marketing snake oil salesman need something to do in order to stay out of the government cheese line. At the same time, when you need it, goretexpertexeventneoshell is worth it in the long run.

I've spent a lot of time with Event/GTex and had a chance to play with the Active Shell and Neoshell stuff. One thing I think may play a role in the addition of Neoshell pieces to existing manufacturers' lineups is how lenient Gore will be in allowing the two fabrics to coexist within the same brand. My experience with all of the fabrics, though, still make the user rely on proper layering and simply knowing when they should take the jacket off before fully sweating it out (if reasonable). Certainly each has their own pros and cons, but for most consumers the durability of the piece (especially the glue holding the PTFE to the facing fabric)should be one of the most important factor. IMHO Gore still has the edge here. As far as the original post, give the ProShell a try. That third layer does a quite a bit in preventing you from getting that clammy feel Paclite will sometimes give you. I have both, so I know what you're talking about.

I did about 6 years ago...one of the best things I did. Now I'm back working. Sad panda.

Pretty much. They're building that stuff simply because people will buy it, regardless of its place in the backcountry. They're not misrepresenting it as anything else. More power to them, I say.

I'm a big fan of the new generation of synthetic boots that eschew the hard plastic exterior, of which there are 5 or 6 good ones that come to mind. But the golden rule with boots is still to get the ones that fit the best regardless of brand.

FF has some in stock fo' sho'

That's what you Tacoma fookers get for shopping at REI and online. RIP Backpacker's Supply.

I have no stories that involve drinking Jolly Roger that end well. That stuff will put you on your lips.

The things I love about climbing are also the things that make it so dangerous. It represents the purest form of personal responsibility. You can choose any mountain you want to climb, and in any condition you want to climb it in...and no one can tell you otherwise. I'm baffled why people are complaining about there NOT being enough information available on a trade route. Regardless...any loss of life is tragic and I hope this climber's family can find peace.

Sorry if someone has already mentioned this but I'd also take a look at the socks you're wearing. They've come a long way since thick rag wool was the standard. I wouldn't say liners are required; I actually stopped getting blisters when I paid more attention to the quality of my socks, fit of my boots and stopped wearing liners altogether.

The Rape of a Mountain Part II http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-david-lama-compressor-bolts