carolyn

Oh yes it is! awwwww, maybe I should rename it...sport climbing trip report. Ya know, I never understood bouldering either. THought it was silly and a pointless. Although its really not my cup o tea, either, I can see it being useful for (my) training purposes. Heck, those of us in the 'flatlands' (as dru would be so kind to point out) have to take what we can get! I think minx summed it up nicely...."it all has its place"

Well, its a good thing I need practice on my downclimbing skills then, eh? Doesnt water start flowing north at a certain point in the mississippi (I should know this, seeing that it begins in the state I live)? Or rivers flow north in canada? Something like that?!?!? North is UP!

This post and the thoughts brought into it are inspired by Muffy! I went out to a bolted area this weekend and climbed. I did my first sport lead(s). I watched a woman (similar to muffy's personal experience which she posted in spray) push herself on a climb, hanging from each bolt for extended periods of time...downclimbing to her last bolt, etc. I saw (for the first time) someone take not just one but two big whippers. I think it scared me more than himself. I also watched him get right back up and keep climbing. I watched my partner push himself more than I have ever seen him do on trad leads. Im not for or against sport climbing. However, Ive been a bit backwards in my learning (ice before rock, trad before sport), so this way of climbing was a bit foriegn to me. How could someone just hang from a bolt time and time again and call that climbing?!??! How can you allow yourself to let it be ok to fall?!?!??! How can you take the risk to go well beyond your limits on lead?!?!? Oh ya...and all the chalk used! My gwad! (j/k...I actually pulled out my chalk bag and used some when I remembered). After thinking about it some and reading over muffy's post, I can see the benefits of clipping bolts on occassion (for me anyway). I can see how it boosted my confidence a bit on lead. I guess if I were to catch a fall for the first time OR fall myself for the first time, i would rather do it attached to a bolt. There could be some good practice involved with downclimbing to your last bolt, giving ya more confidence if you had to do that with pro instead. The point of having the opportunity to push yourself w/a tad less risk involved is golden. I think I enjoy the flavor of trad climbing more. I like the puzzle of where/when/how to place pro. I look forward to the wide range of climbing opportunities trad routes have to offer. However, I dont think I can knock sport climbing, yet. It seems be a good supplement and training tool for the things I want to do in the future. <end of babble>

Thanks for the input. Ya, that climbing w/o thinking is a productive and fun way to go. The greatest gift i have gotten from climbing thus far is how it helps give my mind a rest. My mind usually just turns off. Things have been different since I started leading, tho. It probably does have to do with wheather or not Im willing to take the risk of falling like I would on TR. its strange how when I dont think about the risk, I climb better. Ive been working hard at getting myself into the 'flow' state by doing a lot of long traverses. Its helped me pick up some good techniques which I carry over into tr'ing and leading (ie/closing my eyes, deep breaths, imagery, etc). As Backes says, "your body is made of mostly water...water doesnt think...it just flows...be like the water when you climb". Might sound cheesy, but it seems the more I climb, the more sense it makes.

Ive noticed a tendancy to be more conservative in my movement while leading. I can tr the same route and have no problems with a small dyno move, high step, crimping, etc. Then I try to lead it and I wind up getting stuck in certain spots that proved not to be an issue in the past. In the long run, I think it makes me more tired by hesitating or trying to find a different way to climb the route...thus more vunerable to a fall. Have or do others experience this as well? Is it just a matter of leading more? Or is it a mental game I need to deal with sooner than later?

How about spectra? I just slung a bunch of hexes with it and cant tell you how much it sucked. Okay...it sucked sooooooo much that the thought of cutting and burning the tails on the fishermens knot makes me want to pull it all out and start over with a different kind of cord. Yes, I know there needs to be a good tail with spectra...unfortunately I had a great deal of difficulty tying the knot because of the stiffness....thus extra long tails which need to be cut.

alright! I wanna know which sonic boom just took out my electricity! DOnt they know how long it takes to reboot my puter?!!?!?!?!

oh, but you havent been to the Mall of America. Plenty of climbing there! Seriously! Talk about scary malls!

ya, my cat is still hiding under the bed.

Im game if anyone is around. Its got to be quicker than it was for me the other night. Damn was I tired the next day!

Nice invitation!

hehehehe I was walking into the basement of the store the other day and literally ran into a life size cardboard box of Ed V. I brought it up to the entrance of the store and dressed him up. Guess you had to be there!

Wow! Thanks for the blast from the past! I met jay up in Ontario, canada a few yrs back at an ice festival. It was one of my first experiences on ice. Since I was there by myself, he made sure to come down to the cold shores of Lake Superior, where I was camping and wake me up so we could go climb. Honestly, one of the most enjoyable climbing days Ive had. He even showed me how to readjust my crampons for the first time. helloooo Jay!

I should know better than to start reading spray while munchin on dinner.

My past two days have been awesome! Yesterday...bike ride to a local bouldering area...got dumped on by the rain. Climbed till the lightnening started (being along a railroad track isnt the best place). Hopped in a friends truck and hauled ass to StPaul where the sun was shining. Climbed by myself for a while and rode home. Nap. Bartend...Rollins Band played...Got stuck at a bar after work due to flash floods and 70mph winds.(damn!) Short nap Work Found some hexes I wanted (unslung and not wired) for 2 bucks a pop! A friend stopped by and we went out to lunch. Climbed in the rain for a short while after work. Drinkin a moose drool at the moment. Keep the good days a comin'!

Hey! Im super psyched to work a trip out there around the time of the rope up! Hope to get together with folks at smith the weekend before, along with the those of you heading out to the rope up. Im looking forward to hanging out and drinkin with you all. There will be people climbing though...right? Its a ways out, however when it starts getting close and if there are any fine folks who would be willing to help me with my itinerary (rides from pdx-seattle, seattle-l'worth) and/or interested in climbing, drop me a PM. I will also be searching for a ride and/or someone to climb with the weekend before at smith. Wouldnt mind getting a moderate alpine route in between the two weekends.

Yippeee! Now Ive gots to work on finding a cheap flight! (financial donations will be gladly accepted) When I mentioned a smith gathering on an adjacent weekend to the rope up, I wasnt rallying troops to work against your efforts, beck. I was merely making an attempt to extend my 'vacation'. I dont think anything could top or replace the original rope up in Lworth! Thanks for being so quick on the job and confirming dates so those of us out of staters can make plans. We know the beer is confirmed - thanks to TG. Im happy to be in charge of getting it up there from Portland...then I will be sure to find a ride! I could probly gather up some goodies from the local reps out here as well and bring 'em out if there is interest....you can never have too many goodies! And MAYBE I can work on bringing a special 'guest of honor" (other than me, that is ). to all those who will make this event happen

Try using it on your hands instead. Ouch!

Nice photos! From over here, it seems like your recovery is coming along quickly. Sure it doesnt feel that way to you ,though. Keep postin' those photos. Im sure some hotcha mama is droolin over them on a porn site as we speak! Seriously, though. How are ya keepin your spirits so hight? Very admirable!

If'n you're worried about the appearance of your hands, try some other sport...god, my hands look gross...like they got in between a meat grinder and a belt sander...COOL! Or, you could rub some lotion in at the end of the day... Not concerned about how my hands look - if you saw them, you would believe me. More concerned about how they FEEL. I despise the feeling of dry hands and feet! I was in gymnastics for about 10yrs, as well. Used chalk up the wazoo. I would wake up in tears as a child in the middle of the night cause my hands hurt so much (mainly dryness). Sometimes I would put vaseline on them....then put gloves or socks on so I didnt feel as uncomfortable. Strange, I know. But one's got to do what one's got to do to get their sleep, ya know!

did I just set this up for a page top? Attitude....youre sleeping on the job!

Sweating is an issue for me! I tried a search to no avail could you make a few suggestions. Chalk lasts me about a move and a half before I am forced to dip again, give me the beta... THere is the ecoball, which is only a half dozen bucks or so. Folks Ive talked with who use it seem to like it alright. Rumr...that potion has to just dry the shit outta your hands in the long run! Honestly, its not the 'ethical issue' that bothers me so much. I learned to climb without chalk. I rarely feel the need for it or forget...even with the humidity and typical slick basalt out here. I will at least try and remember to bring my bag climbing with me...maybe even clip it onto my harness?!?! On the other hand, maybe I just dont sweat or work hard enough?!

I was glancing thru Mark Twights book, extreme alpinism last night. I noticed a part which addresses your question, Mike... p.51 "Also use it to monitor your recovery from workouts. Check recovery status by taking your pulse when you wake up each morning. Recovery is incomplete if you are a trained athlete and your heart beats a few times more per minute than normal, or if you are an untrained persona nd your heart rate is six to eight beats per minute higher than normal....An increase in your wake- up pulse also indicates when illness and overtraining loom...Take rest days whenever needed, based on your waking pulse, especially if you are thirty five or older or coming back from injury or a long break from training and climbing...Pay attention when waking pulse is five or more beats per minute higher than normal..."

Im just curious of others thoughts on this subject (minus the ethical debate, if possible). Ive often been taught to make things harder than they need to be so you are prepared when things get tough, both in life and climbing. We have a few areas around here with a no chalk ethic, which I respect. I dont necessarily frown upon others who use chalk. I just dont feel the need to use it. Part of it goes back to the thought process of , "if you can do this climb greasy or wet w/o chalk, just think what more you might be able to do". Recently my 'thought process' has been debated a bit. Im told chalk is good. If you dont use chalk, it greases the holds. Chalking up in the middle of a climb gives you an opportunity to take a break, breath, and collect yourself. I understand the arguments, but I still dont cant seem to break out the bag. And when I do, I often forget its there. Do folks think chalk is a 'necessary' thing? Discuss!

btw, glassgow...Im particularly fond of your avatar image.