carolyn

A month and a half of no climbing, the chiro last week told me his tx plan involved 15 more visits! My eyes about popped out of my head!!!! He told me I need to come in more often and slowly ween away from adjustments. There have been some major improvements, but Im having a hard time deciphering between whether the improvements are coming from the adjustments or just rest. The shoulder seems to be doing quite well most of the time. My neck, on the other hand feels relief after the adjustment. Usually a day or two later i get the 'kink' again. According to him, the kink is a pinched nerve, which is what travels down and causes pain in the shoulder. I couldnt resist any longer and went climbing last weekend. I vowed to stop if I felt the slightest bit of pain. I had no pain in the shoulder. The kink in the neck became obvious again after belaying a bunch, but it didnt affect the shoulder or my climbing. I was suprised. Tho, leashless seems to be more forgiving on the shoulder (if youlet go of the tools), it also seemed to be pretty damn strenuous to climb mixed. The next day, I had to lift the little boy I work with and that triggered the pain in the shoulder. Could it be the different motion of lifting vs pulling that is causing the strain? Did the increased kink in my neck make me more suseptible? Why didnt it affect my climbing then? The other question/thoughts I have... Is the chiro an appropriate person to be seeing? Tho he is giving me a good deal financially, I wonder if it might be in my better interest to find another one who I can go to just a few times vs months and months of seeing this other one. Could I get quicker results with someone else?

Ok, I have one more...it doesnt so much relate to breakthoughs in climbing, itself. More so in my life. A year and a half ago (?) I climbed my first multipitch with Erik and another friend of his. I think it was R&D out in L'worth. ANway..near the last pitch, his friend forgot to trail the rope for me. Hahahaha! He was new to climbing too and neither of us knew what to do once we realized what happened. He continued up to Erik, while I hung out, clipped into the anchors. It was a kewl moment by myself as I looked around at the scenery. I was right where I wanted to be, doing something I had always wanted to do...and I got myself there (w/a bit of help). I know this might sound strange, but I will go with it....It made me realize how my choices and efforts in life got me to this spot. There always seemed to be so many mental, physical, and financial barriers which kept me from climbing. i had finally worked thu those barriers. I often remind myself of that experience when I face new or scary situations in life. There ya have it! Im done now!

A year or so ago I was pushing it on 5.6/5.7's. So, a lot of climbs this past season were "breakthroughs" for me. It was fun to go back to do climbs I struggled on or couldnt do in the past and just fly up 'em this time. Even though there were obvious improvements, it was difficult for me to actually see it and be confident when faced with challenging grades. There are two climbs this season which opened my eyes... 1. 5.8 offwidth on the N.shore here in MN. A year and a half ago I tried it. I swear it took me like an hour or more to get my ass up 100ft. I was so scared of being 'stranded' (if you dont get up these climbs you be swimming accross lake superior). I cried. I never wanted to climb rock again. This year I was terrified as I rapped down to the base of the climb. I had to put into practice all the mental tricks Ive learned to keep myself calm and focused (I swear I thought I was literally going to shit my pants ). Closed my eyes, took a few deep breaths and off I went. Flew up in 10 min or so. It was a super fun climb! I did shed some tears...this time they were 'happy' tears (or maybe just tears of relief). 2. I went back to the N.SHore after my trip out to Wa/Or this fall. The folks I climbed with warm up on .10/.11's. I got a few .10's under my belt over the season and out at smith. I always felt like it was a fluke that I could climb them, tho. I followed their leads this day and warmed up on some .10's successfully. Then....I made it up my first .11!!!!! Yup, I cried again! It wasnt so much the grade. It was more the fact that I could finally see and believe how much I have improved both physically and mentally in my climbing. Its been fun to see my confidence and ability carry over to the ice (I know this isnt and ice forum ). My first climb of the season was a grade higher than Ive ever done. And tho I flailed a lot, I got myself up mid grade mixed routes, leashless...the first time I had tried either. What a f'in blast!!!!!

It was shown out here last weekend. I heard it was okay... not one of the better one's. Too bad I had to work. All five shows were sold out anyway.*sniff sniff*

Frame of mind is soooo important to me. Last year at this time I was barely able to get my ass up a .7 My last rock climb of this season was an onsight of an .11 (t.r) first and foremost i have to believe in myself. I convince myself one way or another that I CAN do this. If I dont get myself in that mind frame I will flail and possibly not meet my goal of completing the climb. Deep breaths before I start. Studying the route. I dont do as well when I watch someone climb it first. Much better when I have an open mind. Shutting my mind down. I cant seem to do this all the time. My best climbing comes when the thinking is done and left on the ground. When I climb I just need to move...thats all there is to it! (easier said than done, I know). silly thing...When I onsighted my first .10 I was soooo gonna fall and I thought to myself, "I can climb with the big boys". It doesnt have such a literal meaning to me. Basically, I want to climb at a level where I can have the freedom to climb what I want. Ive used that phrase in my head in times of need (I try not to abuse it) and it has never failed me. I think it gets my mind back in the phase of believing in myself AND it forces me to breath, which I often forget to do. Another silly thing...I will sometimes talk with the rock. Not to myself, but the rock itself. When Im struggling or expecting a struggle, its easy for me to think its ME against IT. When the reality (or delusion) is that we are there together. When I lead, which isnt too often right now, I decide its not okay to fall. This...I believe...holds me back a lot! Calling out for my mommy and banging my head on the rock (yes, Im a helmet type folk) does wonders in extreme emergencies. Chewing gum and humming a song is vital!

mid summer someone I was climbing with told me that I should work on doing more pull ups. I wanted to cry. Even when I was a strong gymnast as a kid I could never do a pull up. I wasnt sure where to begin...where does one start when they cant even do one? Well, to my suprise I could do a pull up. I wound up getting a pull up bar (20 bucks) that I hung in one of my doorways. Cheapest and best climbing investment yet. If you cant get a pull up bar, check the top of your doorways. Sometimes they are big enough where you can hang by your fingers (ouch! That was painful for me). To prevent slipping on either the pull up bar or door way, tape some fine sandpaper where the point of contact will be with your hands. To start with I wouldnt necessarily recommend going to failure. Im no fitness expert. But if someone had told me that I needed to work on my pullups and to do X until I reached failure...I would. And I would have gotten myself injured pretty quick. Granted, I know working to failure can be beneficial at times. I started by putting my feet on a chair while hanging from the pull up bar....using less and less of my weight. A few sets (give or take) led to a decrease in strength, but not failure. Pull up bars are great at home, too because... *You dont have anyone watching you! (bonus for me) *You can also do leg lifts and other stomach muscle exercises to help reduce injuries. As mentioned, dont forget to stretch those shoulders! Courtenay has some good stretches on her site, in addition to tons of information on pull ups! Distel....OUCH! Hey! That was a page top! pull ups!

The chiro went well for the most part. Lots of info spewed out in a short amount of time. The scans showed problems on the entire right side from my neck down to my lower back. The most severe were in the neck and lower back. He believed it was a pinched nerve in the neck causing the shoulder pain/tingling/aching/etc...even the mysterious headaches (just thought I wasnt getting enough water!). This would all make sense considering it started with a kink in my neck months ago after belaying. His thougths on why it keeps getting irritated is because when I do long reaches on that particular side, Im twisting my neck funny. Mimicking the moves with my arms I can definately see how that is accurate. I cant remember his explanation for the weakness in the arm. I will have to ask next time. I got adjusted for the first time ever. It seems to have relieved the symptoms a little bit, altho as the day/eve goes on they are increasing again. He recommended I come back a few more times this week. *fingers crossed* The strange thing is the greatest abnormalities on the scan were in my lower back. I do have lower back issues, but really no current pain...especially to have it show one side being 2018% out of the normal range! Anyway, Im developing a more positive attitude toward letting this heal and grateful for the opportunity to work on some of my weaknesses (like cardio). Rob- Sorry to hear about your shoulder. Tho, maybe it will be an end all to the pain! How long do they say it will take to fully heal from the surgery?

Drugged up and slept most of the weekend cause of the pain in my shoulder while others hit the ice for the first time this season. I wuz however awake long enough to see a bit of the eclipse.

Come climb the basalt out here and you might change your toon!

I tend to avoid these political conversations all together. In fact, I am one of those folks who tries to ignore politics as much as possible. It seriously depresses me too much. I did however hear about all these new jobs. WIth all the budget cuts in the social service field, human services, etc. I wonder, what kind of jobs these are? Are they at McD's? Burger king? Walmart? Etc. Are they jobs that help people feel satisfied with who they are and what they do? Im not trying to be defensive or start an argument. Im actually curious.... Even if these jobs are mcD type, will this boost the economy enough in the long run so people CAN go to school and PURSUE (meaning get employment) careers which are meaningful to them? (this is by no means dissing on those who actually enjoy working in the service industry).

For an uninsured woman...the cost to have "safe sex" so ya dont get pregno is practically the same amount as... a new set of ice tools, crampons...and then some a full rack a plane ticket to Europe and lots o hash 6 months on the road... The cost of NOT having 'safe sex'....PRICELESS! So, For some, it might actually be a toss up!

It must be the rope bag sending vibes! (which btw fits my boots, crampons, and a few miscl items in it very nicely for those roadside bouldering days!) So THAT is what I have been doing wrong all this time?!?!?!?! Seriously, tho. Lambone, what you said about going out into the alpine environment and wanting a more burly pick makes sense...so why wouldnt they put a cobra pick on the Viper tool? At least when getting the laser pick on the viper you dont have to bevel it down so much. Its already done for ya! Thanks for the responses. Much appreciated!

Too bad he is out of town, eh? No there is not! Dont let them tell you those lies!

Oh how I HATE running! I dont mind running stairs if I have to. Maybe a good ol fashion hike! Good News, tho! I take care of a little boy a couple days a week. Once a week he goes to the chiro. I couldnt help much today (he has some very special needs), and I told the dr this. He was curious what happened and suggested I come in. After I explained that I didnt have insurance and would just have to deal he offered to see me for FREE the first two times...then half off for each visit...no extra charge if I need ultrasound or other miscl therapeutic devices to speed up the recovery. My first appt is tomorrow! *big sigh of relief!*

I stand corrected.... the laser picks are B rated and they DO come on the cobra. Here is what a friend of mine from BD wrote to me: All three picks can be used for all conditions, some just work better than others (I think you are taking the add copy to literally, or it's wrong) To summarize: Laser pick: comes on Cobra & Viper -- thinner than Titan, better penetration, not as burly but can be used for mixed if you are not abusive (I use them for everything but drytooling, even on my Fusions) Titan: same as old cobra pick. Burly. Comes on Rage 'cauz that tool is meant for beginner/intermediate climbers and or "Scottish" style scratching about. Fusion: Comes on Fusion (duh). Specifically designed for high end drytooling abuse. Notched top for purchase when stein pulling. Can be used for ice but not as good as Laser.

I have my heart set on the quarks. Doing a little more research on the vipers, just to make sure. Youre right, My hands dont fit nicely around the cobras. I dont really like my rages (too heavy) I have access to use the Fusion, Aztar, and Ergo anytime, so I wont be buying anything like that anytime soon. Ive seen the laser picks. I like the fact that they are already beveled...less work for me! You said you wouldnt use the laser picks for mixed...which was my point exactly. Why would they put it on a tool that is made for mixed. WHy wouldnt they put the cobra pick on it?

I climb my worst when I am around large crowds of people...especially if I dont know them. Call me a wimp, but I get intimidated easily knowing there is an audience. So the gym....I wont dare step in there anymore. Or large tourist areas on weekends. To my credit I have been working on it a bit. As a friend of mine said one day...you never know when you are going to be climbing in some area, totally stoked, but scared shitless because its a 4 star offwidth, x, r...youre halfway up and then the tourist bus pulls up with everyone staring, commenting, pointing and taking pictures. What do you do then? LEARN TO FUCKING DEAL. I climb best when Im in new situations, when Im with better climbers (especially if I dont know them well), and when I have my head screwed on right. On the rare occassion all those factors come together in one place, the type of rock, climb , or weather really doesnt affect me.

So the pain is back once more in my shoulder. Too many long reaches irritated it. I took a week off. It felt better. Climbed. Hurt it again. Took a week off. It felt better. Did some strength exercises. Hurt it again. Im now at a point where I have a sharp pain in the lower part of the shoulder blade when lifting my arm, carrying anything, even sneezing sux. There is an obvious weakness in it as well. Ive received some great advice on how to take care of it both online and from friends. I dont have insurance and cant afford a dr, so there is not a whole lot more I can do. I know One of the keys for me right now is disciplining myself AND taking more than a week off. I can/will do this. In the meantime I worry a lot about losing my strength. With ice season right around the corner (well, actually beginning right now), what kind of things can I do to keep my strength (and motivation) up and not irritate the shoulder more? Things I HAVE been doing... calf raises Stomach muscle exercises Back exercises stretching (anything that doesnt involve the shoulder) Working on my eye/hand coordination on my left hand by swinging tools and/or hammer at one spot. biking (gonna have to put the bike on a trainer very soon) Possibly I could do some ice climbing without tools? Using flat hands to practice footwork? Any other thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

The more I climb, the more I learn, the more I understand the subtle differences amongst gear. I decided I was at a point to give the catalogs and websites another stab to help me understand the details of various types of gear. SO, Im looking at the BD site....Hopefully you can follow my train of thought here.... Rage is mainly for ice Cobra is said to be an all around tool, tho it seems to be mainly used on ice. Viper is for ice and mixed. ___________________ The new laser pick is for ice only (as stated on their site). Its "t" rated. The Titan pick (aka cobra) is meant for alpine/mixed. Its "b" rated. So why is the Laser pick (for ice only) sold on the Viper...a tool which is made for mixed climbing. And the Titan pick (alpine/mixed) sold on the rage and cobra...tools mainly used on ice only. This is an honest question....is there something I am missing here that makes sense the way they are selling the tools/picks? Or is it just a way for them to sell more picks? On a side note....has anyone used the laser picks yet? (I KNOW you have some ice out there!). Like? Dislike? ALthough Im looking into new tools for this season, Im thinking of nabbing a set for my rages.

My thoughts exactly dru....I should just use my plain ol atc for craggin. Use the reverso only when the situation calls for it.

The 'dirty' rope makes sense. My rope is pretty clean...that wuz until I spent a week at smith. Technique...not sure if I understand what you mean by "if you run it down the middle". I keep my hand on the side...and usually produce as much friction as I can. THat theory makes sense as well. I actually didnt notice it until someone pointed it out to me. It was a good eye opener that I need to be more aware of just damage to my rope and other obvious glitches in gear.

I noticed the side where I have the rope go thru most often is getting worn down....not uncommon. Its getting to a point where I will need to replace it pretty soon due to the edge getting too sharp. Ive only had the device for a year. ANyone else notice such quick wear on the reverso? Or maybe I spend too much time belaying.

Changing the kind of climbing is important for me... Rock, mixed, drytool, ice.... and then finding ways to make each of those mediums different... traversing, bouldering, laps, leading, easy, hard, sport, trad. If I get bored/under motivated, I find a way to make it interesting, different and/or new. Borrowing/demo-ing/buying new gear is always a good motivator to get out! Now if I could only find a way to tame my motivation when injured. *sniff sniff*

Garth WIllis is the persons name. He is actually a fellow minnesotan. Great guy with a lot of passion for what he does. He is always looking for people to do internships over the summer months, if that interests you. At the moment he is in DUsanbe, Tajikistan where he is helping them set up an internet network in the schools thru out the country. You can contact him at garth@alpinefund.org I believe his website is www.alpineorg.com. If thats not correct and you cant find it, let me know and I will dig it up. Garth is a super kewl and very approachable. He can fill you in realistically on the security issues and other things to expect if you choose to go over there. I would highly reccomend dropping him a line. Good Luck.

Thats okay adventuregal....more rain=better ICE! Then the freshiez can fly!