carolyn

Hmmm, now Im a bit confused. We dont have many bolted routes or anchors around here. Is it much different than placing your own anchors?

well, Ive had a looooong week, and Ive had a few beers this evening....but.... Wouldnt the main anchor point come from both bolts? So you would anchor into that point (daisy chain and/or clove hitch). Then you would redirect the anchor off the main point. In my short career, I have had the second (or as the second myself) clip into the main anchor point as well.

all this negative talk about the midwest makes me want to

I had a feeling you all would enjoy it!

Yup, that seems possible. I think haireball mentioned that earlier in the thread. Just dont know if Im talented enough or trust myself enough to mess with it

Well, Minnesota, of course! Im pretty inexperienced, so I might be wrong, but... My understanding is you dont want unnecessary bending of the wire. If that is then case, then having it slung vs wired allows a bit more freedom in equalizing, correct? I dont know, it makes sense in my mind and at the time of setting the anchor, preference over a slung hex was lingering in my mind. Feel free to question and/or correct my logic. Im still pretty green!

This post has a bit more meaning to me now that Ive been acquiring and using my own gear, along with comparing it to others. It seems like Ive run into a number of times where I would have prefered a slung hex vs my wired ones (mainly in setting up anchors -would that be accurate?). I asked around at the store today, but no one was sure who made them these days. I checked wild country's site and did a yahoo search and cant seem to find anyone who makes them. Cavey, if you have the link, could you post it? If anyone is interested in selling an 8, 9, 0r 10 slung hex, let me know. I would probably be interested. I think ANything smaller than that I can get away with wired or use a tricam for now.

He is also doing a slide show down in bend w/in the same time period. I dont remember when/where. You can probably find out thru the climbing shop outside smith. I believe they are cosponsoring it, along with the cascade mountaineers (?is there such thing?). I just spent a day climbing with scott. Ive known him very casually over the past few years. Recently I have gotten to know him better. He has been very inspirational to me and would HIGHLY reccomend attending if at all possible.

Thanks for all the well thought out responses (even your page top, dru! ) I cant remember who posted what. So, Im going to throw out some random thoughts and references. I think mitch had some excellent points regarding safety. However, I ditto what attitude says about beginners not knowing their limits and maybe not knowing what is and isnt safe. I have been taught by some excellent folks, along with a lot of reading, practicing, etc. I know I have learned safe techniqes and placements. The question is, can I apply it once Im faced with the situation. Maybe its a lack of confidence in my knowledge/ability?! As AlpineK said, it takes experience (lots of climbing) to understand your limits. This last weekend the importance of downclimbing was evident. I was taught to downclimb at every chance. I almost always do when toproping (ice and rock). I think I will do it even more now! When my partner told me if I got wigged out to set an anchor and have myself lowered, I thought, "shit, I would MUCH rather down climb". Bless my mentors for teaching me good habits. I guess this is just something I have to sort out for myself. Trusting what I know. Weighing the risks. Deciding what I want to risk. Its definately been helpful to hear other folks talk about this mental game, though. Feel free to keep them coming! Im going to do a little name dropping here (I know, shame on me), mainly because I am super excited. But tomorrow Scott Backes and I are going climbing together at a local crag. He is pretty insightful with this kind of stuff, so maybe I will throw it out there and see what he has to say. I will be happy to share what comes of the conversation. Oh ya! And climbing is ALWAYS fun for me! Sometimes challenging, but always fun. cheers!

Thanks alpinfox THats pretty much what I thought he meant, but I didnt want to assume. Yesterday I was having a conversation with a very experienced climber about this. He reminded me that when you 'think' about your climbing you often make it harder than it needs to be. However, everyone needs to go through the phase where they need to 'think' in order to get that 'in the moment' feeling. I tend to agree with this person....just do it, dont think about it. Obviously certain situations are exempt. I dunno, just some thoughts passing thru my head. cheers!

This may sound silly, but can you define or elaborate on what you mean regarding Intense Focus Concentration?

Im not really sure if this is a question. And if it is, if there is really an answer. I would however love to hear other's thoughts on this subject. A few days ago I did my second lead. I followed someone before going up and tried to climb it 'as if" I was leading (ie/ making more conservative moves). Ive done this climb a zillion times. Its super fun and one of the easiest Ive done. For some reason it was WAAAAAAAAy hard on this particular day....and the way I approached it. I planned on leading it next. I began to doubt myself a bit, though. I also bashed my elbow the night before on a climb. It hurt like hell and I wasnt sure if I should "physically" put myself in a situation such as leading. I talked to my parter about it a bit. He believed I could do it, but was concerned as to whether or not I would back off if it was too much mentally or physically. I sat in silence, thinking: "No way. If I start it, Im going to do it!" I had to stop myself and remember how important it is to back off if its too much. Then I wondered if I would?!?!?! I led the route and it turned out to be INCREDIBLY fun and rewarding! I guess what I was wondering is if anyone has experienced this conflict between knowing your limits and stubborness? What kind of cues do you use (internally) to decide if its time to back off or not? Is this something that you 'learn' thru experience or is it always there?

Curious, and I dont mean this to sound condesending, but have you sat down and just straight out asked him how he would like to spend his summer? Maybe ask him to develop some sort of list (prioritize) and sit down with him, go thru the pros/cons of each. I just think if you give him the opportunity to see his choices, he will make the best decision for himself at this point in his life. If you disagree with his choices/decision, just sitting with him and discussing it might make him feel more open to comprimising with what you think is the best thing for him. I dunno. Your son is 15 yrs old. That is still soooo young! Children, teenagers, even adults need to 'play'. Let him be part of the decision in what game to play. From what Ive read of your posts in the past, you seem to be a great person, who has probably instilled some great values in your son. Sounds like now is the time to give him the opportunity of showing them to society. In regards to work...I just saw a program on tv about how teenagers are having a hard time finding jobs, because of the unemployment rate (college students, folks getting laid off are taking the service jobs kids his age used to get for the summer). When I was 15 my mom had me volunteer with special olympics. Maybe he could do something like that using his skills/talents or to develop new ones. This is a good way to start teaching responsibility, helping otu in society, and hopefully give him a feeling of accomplishment. Then when he is 16 (which I thought was the legal working age), he might have more confidence and motivation to find a job he can tolerate. Whew! I could probably go on...but I will spare you and the others with my babble. Good luck!

Probably didn't find any thing because its spelled SCHOELLER! awww geeeeeeeeeez! Ya know I spelled it every which way and backwards while searching and looking thru posts. After doing this with a few moose drools in hand I didnt think it would matter how I spelled it in the post. Youre all a smart crew of folks. Figured you would know what I meant. Thanks again all for your immediate feedback. Thats what I love about this site! cheers!

Glad you had fun over there. A friend of mine was planning a trip out there a few weeks ago, but got rained out. We are now planning a trip for early fall. I hear it is a really fun climb. About the accident. A customer in the store was telling us about it last night. His partner witnessed her fall. How awful. I guess one rope she was rapping off of was a 50m, the other a 60m. No knots at the ends. I think he said the fall was about 300 feet. It was fatal. Of course this is all 3rd party info. Still pretty sad.

I cant find the pants on the internet for the life of me. At any rate, looking at the mtn hw site, it seems they use dYnamic schoeller for these pants. Hell, I buy 'em for 50-60 bucks, if I dont like 'em I will just sell 'em to someone. Thanks for the feedback.

not heavy enough yet!

Ya know, I just found these pants in the "thrifty" part of our store by chance (used, samples, etc). THey are dynamic. The patagucci powershield ones where WAAAAY too long...besides I like the stretch in the mtn hardware ones better. I really like the fit and adaptability of them. I guess for 55 bucks I cant go wrong. Wish I could remember the name of the pants. Anyway, I put them on hold for my next paycheck. I couldnt decide earlier today, so I spent my check on building my rack instead!

Sorry if this has been covered before. Couldnt find anything on a search or going thru a zillion pages in this forum. Has anyone had problems with the durability of their scholler materials? I was about to purchase a pair of mtn hardware pants...perfect for warmer ice climbing days and cooler days on the rock. Someone stopped me though and said there have been a number of complaints recently (and things being returned at the store) because the material is ?piling? and strings of material are coming out (not at the seams). THis seems to have happened with some arcteryx jackets and BD pants. I get a good deal on them and I know I can return them. But I hate to waste the money up front. As well as it would be good to know how well scholler material has held up for others.

Im curious about those who responded to this poll, voting for tricams. Is it because you trust them in camming mode or because you dont want to leave a cam behind? I just bought a few tricams (pink and red). I havent yet practiced placing them, but I have cleaned them. Ive never found them terribly difficult to clean. What I have found to be the biggest bitch to clean are the metolious curved stoppers.

HOt Sweaty Loud Lots of pouring beer in plastic cups to prevent bottles getting thrown. Never ending night. Fairly pleasant/civil crowd. Most importantly....made enough money for a flight out to the PNW this fall!

Dru, I think that is the weekend of the 10-11th (or the monday of that weekend). Isnt it the same as columbus day in the states?

I dont drink coffee that much anymore, but thats EXACTLY what I had this am, dru! DOnt forget, they DO have decaf which can definately help the 'withdrawals'. The best coffee I ever had was when a friend of mine flew into Mpls straight from Brazil with 2 bags of beans freshly picked the day before at her families house. Damn Good! (although that cup in the middle of the road on the way back from lworth wasnt too bad either, erik )

I will be serving fine drinks to the live music of ANthrax and Motorhead this evening. Full TR in the morning.

Oh, and trask, Thanks for the offer!