carolyn

ack! Clear Channel SUX! Thanks for the link. Looks like an interesting read.

aaaawww, that sux! DIdnt you get to look at the xrays yourself? As much as Im sure you dont care to hear it, I agree with AlpineK....take care of yourself NOW so you can continue to climb in the future. Best of luck!

Aaaah! A fellow scorpio! Happy Belated Birthday!

Just thought I would give a plug for Scott Backes. He has his new (and first) website up now....www.alpinementoring.com (sorry, its not working for me to set up a link from my computer, so you will have to type it in for now). Anyway, its still in its beginning phases. Last I checked a number of photos werent displayed. He provides training tips, fictional stories, photos, and of course information on his latest gig - mentoring programs. Feedback on the site and its content Im sure would be appreciated either by posting on this thread or contacting him directly. Enjoy!

I dont know what type of record my climbing partner has, but last year he was denied access to canada FOREVER because of something he did over 13yrs ago. They didnt consider him rehabilitated.

getting stuck in a spot....loooking around everywhere for your next hold, trying to figure out how to make the move...and then "da-ding"...you see it... Its been right there in front of your face the entire time! DOH! The metaphors I get from climbing and can bring into my life

The first thing that comes to mind... The warmth coming back to my hands after the barfies while ice climbing. THen there is.... Hearing the sound of your pick hit the ice in a perfect placement. AAAAAHHHHH! Successfully dodging a falling object. Having your belayer catch your fall. Being able to catch your partners' fall. *whew!* Getting my ass up something I never thought I could. Climbing something where my mind goes blank and my body just moves. Watching someone else succeed on a climb which is obviously challenging for them. sleeping well after a good day of climbing. Being able to laugh at myself when I fall UP a climb. Looking in guidebooks to plan or just plain dream of the day. Blasting the heat in a warm vehicle after a cold day outside. Grilled Cheese and budweiser after a good day of climbing (dont forget the white bread!)

eeewwww, I had to be putting a bite of food in my mouth as I started reading this post!

Another great trip out to the PNW thanks to many of you! I spent my first 7 days down at smith where I got a ton of climbing in. Thanks to Shredmaximus for showing me around the first day. A special thanks to AlpineK, Jeff, and Tex for not saying anything when I changed into shorts before I did my first true offwidth in the Gorge. I think I will have permanent scars! Uncle Tricky was my hero for sticking around an extra day or so and going up Monkey Face with me. Definately a highlight of the trip! I never laughed so hard climbing that bolted ladder. Of course all of you who were at the smith gathering...it was great to see old faces and meet new folks. Thanks Tim and Becky for the shower and bed after 7 days in the tuff! Im sure others who I met during the rest of my trip are grateful to you as well. In Lworth, I got on some MN sized climbs the first day. It was fun hanging out with Fern, dru, Alpinek, Erik, Uncle Tricky,Dave S, and a few other lurkers on the second day where we stuck close to the road bouldering and searching for more offwidths. Met a lot of new faces at the rope up. Thanks David Parker for the raffle tickets....and the rope bag! Climbing was cut a little short when the weather was obviously not going to cooperate, so it was off to explore Seattle a bit and finish off the keg at ALpineK's house. Thanks to both Alpine K and Beck for giving me places to crash! Overall...8 days of GREAT climbing out of the 10 I was there...not too bad! Looking forward to the next visit!

I would have to say "nothing". In my short tenure, the times when I am able to focus on nothing is when I have climbed at my personal best. Don't envision yourself moving forward; just move forward. I second (or third ) this idea. I try to get all my thinking out of the way BEFORE I start climbing. Deep breaths are always helpful...and remember to keep breathing while you are climbing. When you are beginning it takes a lot of mental energy to climb because you are constantly thinking about your feet, balance, the next hold, the best technique to use (stemming, smearing, edging, manteling, jamming, etc). Once you become more proficient your body starts moving without having to think so hard on how to use it. I believe this is refered to as engrams. One thing that has helped me to practice climbing without thinking about anything is to get on routes that are super easy OR do some of your favorite routes a number of times. When I get on harder routes, I then find it easier to get myself into the 'zone'. You asked about reading material. I would highly recommend "Performance Rock Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann. It talks a bunch about engrams, performance, mental and phyical training, etc. Most important, just make sure it is fun.

Hey I was just up on the Nshore climbing this weekend A-gal! Saturday wuz Beeeautiful!!!! Sunday had a bit to be desired on palisade...however it does give us hope for ice climbing in the near future. Get any rain up there today?

Climbing with people who believe in my abilities. Climbing grades that are way hard for me. Trying out different aspects/features of climbing (bouldering, traversing, crack,face, roofs, sport, trad, OW, etc). Perseverence. WOrking on getting into the "flow" mode. Basically what erik is talking about...not thinking. Downclimbing Pull ups Stretching daily. Watching others climb. Visualization. Changing my attitude from, "I dont know if I can do that" to "Lets give it a go and see what we can do!"

me, too!

Crap! My rope was the one thing I decided not to bring. Guess its time to reconsider,eh? Just struck me as an interesting comment, because I have heard it before...'youre female so you shouldnt have any problem'. In my experience Ive been more limited at times because of being female. I dunno, it probly all equals out in some wierd kind of way in the long run. -c

Packing... Something I really dont enjoy doing. Especially when Im not sure what exactly my plans are going to be. I want to be prepared for any and all opportunities. However the last thing I want to do is lug around a bunch of extra gear. So, when travelling half way accross the country, not knowing with who or what your climbing plans are going to be, what do you keep at home and what do you bring with?

Wow! Thanks for all the great thoughts! I did take part of the day off work and spent a number of hours rotating heat/ice/heat/massage along with a few stretches. The stretches were an improvement from the past two days. I hadnt read glassgowkiss' response until now, but a few of the stretches I did were the same as you described. The pain and a few of the knots are still there...down one side of my neck and around my shoulder blade. Not quite as intense as last night at this time, thankfully. Only one "siezed" up moment today and no spasms in the lower back. I would be more than happy to lay of the heat AND massage. After today, I think it is starting to make me feel MORE sore. Medication-wise. Flexeral is something I have taken in the past, which worked well for the spasms. I usually dont take more than 800mgs of ibuprofin, two times a day because I dont want to 'mask' the pain and wind up doing more than my body is ready for..therefore making it worse. Im wondering if doing some light/easy traversing on some rock in the next couple days would be a good idea? Something that requires more feet and balance vs arm or finger strength. Just to get the movement going again in my arm/shoulder/neck/back. Anyway, long term I know I should address this issue. I appreciate all the ideas, which I will explore. Oh...and Courtney...the tennis ball trick is awesome. Thanks again!

So I told myself I was gonna take a ten days off from climbing before heading out to the PNW. I was feeling healthy and didnt want to risk an injury before my trip. I suck at discipline sometimes and climbed anyway. I found myself with a bit of a kink in my neck after belaying. After my next climb I realized I pulled something in my back. Not too painful. Experienced with lower back pain and felt i was okay, so I kept climbing thru out the day. The next morning, my back was sore, but no terrible pain. Bent down to pick something up and my entire lower back seized up. I spent the day babying it...heating pad, ice, massage,ibuprofin etc. Next day...heating pad, ice, stretching, short walks,ibuprofin etc. Usually at this point the pain has subsided in the past. I have had no choice but to work the past few days...14hr days. Not too active, but lots of standing. I continue to put heat on it and take the ibuprofin, along with stretching. My back/shoulders/neck continue to feel likea rubberband about to snap with random hours of extreme pain in the lower back. Ive been thru hours of PT for problems with my back in the past. So, I know the basics of healing. Tonight someone noticed the 'knots' on the right side of my back move. They explained the knots are a build up of lactic acid. Possibly massaging them isnt doing anything but moving them around? ANyone have any unique hints as to how to get these out of my body and help the pain disappear. I hate to get out there for two weeks of climbing and wind up laying on heating pad at a friends house the entire time. Btw..I dont have insurance...so a chiro or massage therapist is not an option. Thanks in advance!

That lake has to be soooooo f'in COLD right now!

Hey Minx, Mtnngrl pretty much summed it up. Nice job! If you have the time and want to head up here to MN, let me know. Its about a4- 5 hr drive from Madison to the cities. I would be happy to show you what we have around here. If you have a good amount of time and are interested a run up to the N.shore would definately be worth it, depending on what time of year. I might even be game for meeting you down at DL. When are you planning on being in the area? If you are planning on heading out to either smith or lworth for the ropeups, I could bring my book for the MN/WI climbing areas.

Still looking for a ride/climbing partner Thursday or Friday. -c

Thats too bad Where abouts were you?

I got some more trad leads in (its been since beginning-mid summer since Ive had the opportunity). They were great leads, in the sense that I didnt worry so much about my climbing...I was much more confident, less mind games. Even onisghted a lead/climb (big mental challenge for me)! Turned a silly 40- 50 ft climb into a multipitch to practice for my trip out to Wa/Or next month. Learned a lot about communicating with your partner in regards to racking gear and such. Climbed the next day and got spanked on some harder stuff (ya! more climbs to work on! ). Bbq'd drank beer Watched the band, Built to Spill, put on a great show!

Wow! Its really kewl to hear what you have all been doing this year! Im not sure if I can narrow it down to just three! How about two categories! Tangible accomplishments: Finished the ice climb in Orient Bay, Ontario which I got injured on the year before. It really sucked and I never want to climb it again....but I faced the fear and did it anyway! Cruised up a climb I struggled on MAJORLY last year on the North Shore. Also did a few others that I would have never dreamed I could do. Started leading trad (Hopefully to occur on my trip out to the PNW in a few weeks)....Lead a multipitch climb. Others: I met a GREAT mentor/friend who has been incredibly helpful with... Teaching me actual technique. Mentally preparing myself - in turn has helped me increase my grades drastically. Exploring other areas of climbing as a form of training...yup...even bouldering and sport! getting me to the point where I can experience 'flow' while climbing.

I will hang out for a while Prefer to chat with an assparrot,tho

I was on my first trip out to Washington during this time. Up in B'ham that day. Called someone I met through this site to get together and/or get ideas of my next adventure. When he told me, I didnt quite grasp it. I went on my way to Baker. Got a little bit here and there on the radio, but it was pretty fuzzy. Hiked up the heliotrope trail and camped that night at the footof the glacier (coleman?). It was REALLY quiet...kinda eerie. The next day I stopped in town to get some food and saw the paper. Radio was still fuzzy. Camped nearby, read the paper. Eventually it started sinking in. I felt a lot of guilt....guilt that I didnt comprehend or chose to ignore something of such magnitude...that I was selfish to continue my 'vacation' despite the fact that something terrible was going on in the world. I still feel a little guilt. Flying out of Seattle a week later was a bit nervewracking. It took me a while to get out due to the number of cancellations....then a number of layovers. I will never forget the intense expressions on the other passengers faces (as well as my own Im sure). I looked around at all the people and thought, "this could have happened to anyone of us". The compassion I felt was pretty overwhelming. It wasnt until last year, 9/11 that I saw the television footage all of you saw on that day. I sat in front of the tv all day...waiting...to see what really happened. On one hand it was like torture doing that to myself. On the other hand, it offered me some closure. Today I woke up for the official ceremony and participated in the moment of silence. Then I turned off my tv and went climbing. I think it is important (for me ) to acknowledge the tragic event. then move on and celebrate living life to its fullest in memory of the victims and those who fight for our safety everyday.