carolyn

Ted, I get your point. I guess I was more or less implying that Im not going to be a hero. If a firemans belay is available to me, why not take it. As someone who has been injured by falling objects, Im super careful and aware of knocking shit down. And overly paranoid when below someone. Good to hear you set people up with some sort of back up...Ive seen too many people teach others to rapp and just let 'em go. Fern- Thanks for the ideas!

E-Rock- I believe the flaming lips are the back up band for a beck show which either just took place or will be taking place out here soon. What an AWESOME show that would be, eh?! If it makes you feel any better muffy... the weather is crap here...might have to resort to the gym tomorrow. (no offense to you plastic pullers...its just not really my cup of tea). [ 10-19-2002, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

I was initially taught to use a prussik above the belay device. It definately eased my mind as a beginner. Now Im starting to use the autoblock. At first that didnt feel as secure, but now Im more comfortable with it. It also feels a lot smoother than the prussik. Not that the prussik is really hard to make, but I seem to find an autoblock more efficient and easier to get 'right'. There were a few times with the prussik that it loosened up on me and just became more of a nuisance (maybe it wasnt right and I didnt check it before going down). Its kind of a given, but as a beginner with so many things going on in my head it seemed like the last thing I would do was weight and test the knot....big mistake! If there is someone below I always have them do a fireman's belay. I figure whats it gonna hurt? Walking off is often just as easy (around here anyway) and probly safer. So unless I have to rapp, I dont. The hardest part I have with rappelling is the start. You know, the foot or more before you are completely over the edge with the rope tight? As a beginner, Thats where a loss of control seems to be the most likely. [ 10-19-2002, 07:00 AM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

while we are somewhat on the subject of melting snow...I was told when melting snow for drinking water, you need to add something else to it (tea, lemonade, whisky;), etc) or it doesnt do you any good. True?!

a wool sock over the nalgene has always worked great for me. And then, what fern said...the upside down trick.

quote: Originally posted by Scotch-a-Go-Go: Mountain bucks is what they used to call their employee discount program. Generally described by my friends that worked there at the time as "a rip-off". But I'm sure times are different now. I will have to ask about that. We just prodeal thru the company or get a very nice discount if buying off the shelf. The later is what I wind up doing often, due to poor planning or lack of interest in 'waiting' for the mail. ive tried to convince them, since I spend at least 90% of my paychecks IN the store, that I should get a hefty raise. Pay me $100/hrx10 hrs/wk=Sell approx $1000 worth of gear to me/week = some kind of profit...$100 bucks or so? Not including the fact that if I own it and like it I will sell it like hotcakes. Just think if they did this for EVERYONE who worked there (just to get gear), how much they would profit! Tell me this makes as much sense to you as it does to me! [ 10-12-2002, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

looks like its all inside, eh? Thanks for the link.

aaah! I was curious, because I do clinics thru the winter on a styrofoam tower (actually mixed) at the store. We have looked at expanding it and having some comps, but its a no go (budgeting) for now. We tried to pull together an ice swap at the last minute last year. It went okay. We are working on a bigger swap this year. Sounds like what is going on out there is what some of us have in mind over here. anyone have photos of it?

quote: Originally posted by To The Top: Scot'gucci, I am goin to do the real stuff. I take it this isnt real ice people will be climbing (except for TTT)? Is it styrofoam? (damn! That word looks funny....styrafoam, stirofoam, foam, fome..... ) [ 10-12-2002, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: As I drove to Bellevue, and to the BOX I would spend this day inside, I saw the best sunrise, with views of Rainier and the Mountains to the east. man! Sounds like a MUCH nicer drive to work than I had! The grand 'ol, dirty Mississippi is the extent of natural features I saw! Really, though...(I'll be the optimist here)...there are plenty of nice days left...its just a matter of how you look at it. I for one am anxiously awaiting the nostril freezing cold and white powder to fall over here!

Astragulus root is a good prevention at the first sign of a cold, cough, flu, etc... Use it as a tonic. you can get it in a powder and mix it in with soups to help deal with the taste. It helps protect the immune system among other things. Just make sure to drink extra fluids (which you should anyway) because it can promote fluid loss (sweating). I second the garlic...but its got to be fresh...not cooked, sauteed,etc. Makes ya smell real nice, too! If its too late...boil a big pot of water. steep some chamomile and peppermint. Hold your head over the pot with the herbs and water...put a towel over your head to allow more steam. Clears ya up in a heartbeat! Throat coat tea rules! And sometimes...ya just gotta go with the nyquil! Feel better soon!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: In Washington State, we have a program called Basic Health (I think). This program is specifically for people who are not eligible for health insurance for whatever reason (unemployed or whatever); premiums are based on how much you make per month, so it is meant to remain affordable for those who don't make much money. Might be something to look into. We have a couple similar programs as well. Unfortunately I make too much for any of them...and I dont make a whole heck of a lot between my 5 jobs! Pre-existing conditions will forever keep me from getting private insurance. It will need to come from an employer. Not usually possible with part time/seasonal work. Like I said, this is a very frustrating topic for me in my day to day life...because I KNOW I need insurance. We all have our own set of circumstances which we have to do our best to deal with in order to take care of ourselves. Trust me, Im doing my part the best I can. Thanks for the info/links to the Washington Health Care Program! Insurance is an important piece as I work on my plan of action to move out there. Good discussion w/ lots of resources to look into! Thanks!

Kristin? Kristin? Let me think ... ummmmmmmmm.... NOPE! Oh wait! Does she have something to do with that new snafflehound sanctuary opening up?

aaaaahhhhhhggggg! HEALTH INSURANCE! One of the few things in life that TRULEY frustrate and piss me off! I lost my health insurance last year around this time. After a potentially serious accident last spring (while climbing), I found myself in a canadian hospital. Although they tried to find every which way to get the money up front, they didnt deny me the necessary treatment. Had my injuries been more serious and financially costly, Im not sure what I would have done. (btw...bless canada! The hospital never even billed me, which was implied before I left). Since then, I worry about it a lot while climbing...mainly when Im further away from home. I have tried to adopt E-Rocks' philosophy of not allowing the lack of ability to afford insurance to limit my freedom. Not just in climbing, but life in general. I started a post a while ago about insurance...not many responses, except to look into aac. If I remember correctly, that was mainly rescue insurance. As I begin to plan more trips, I expect I will join. Its affordable and I think my responsibility. Travellers insurance seems to exclude climbing activities. If anyone knows of travellers insurance which DOESNT, please fill me in! Dont let the lack of insurance keep you from doing what you love. If for some reason you were injured, whatever bills you acquire can be worked out. Hospitals often elimate costs, if they see there is no way you will be able to pay. Climb on!

"Mountain Bucks"? What am I missing? Whats that? Im going to participate in starting my own 'thread drift'... quote: Originally posted by DavidW: If you are relatively new to trad climbing and your partners dont have the proper gear then they are probably not the proper partners. Im not sure if I agree with this statement. I think I understand where it is coming from...not encouraging one to 'self teach' trad skills. THAT I can agree with. Its important to make sure there is someone you can follow and practice with to learn good/safe technique. However, because my partner does not have the gear or the experience himself, doesnt mean I shouldnt be climbing with him. As long as we have people who are able to evaluate our progress and give us feedback on a regular basis, I dont think there is anything wrong with going it on our own. In an ideal world, a 'newbie', like myself would be climbing with a more experienced person all the time. Its just not realistic though. My guess is that most climbers gained a bit or a majority of their experience thru exploring on their own (reading, asking questions, hands on practice, etc). I cant afford to hire a guide everytime I have a question or want to move a step further. I cant climb with my mentor or a more experienced climber each time I head out on the rock or ice. So, what is one to do? sorry if any of this sounds defensive. Not meant to be. I just get frustrated when someone throws a roadblock in front of my desire to learn. Thoughts on the subject? ANyone relate to when they first started out? ANyway.... Scotch-a-go-go...I might have a sat or two free this month, if the weather cooperates and your interested in getting some climbing in before the lull. I also start running the ice tower at Midwest (I know , not your fav place ) this wkend. Stop in and say hi if you have a chance. I'll email you with more info on it, if ya like. Oh ya! And those suburbs! I work "there" too (bartend). One show was ENOUGH for ME! [ 10-09-2002, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

I like the idea of a 'techniques' forum. I often ask a lot of questions around this subject which Im sure have been asked or brought up many times before. Sometimes I will do a search, but often times it takes more work than it might be worth...easier to just type out a few words and ask again. I think the ice section should be divided into Canada, PNW, and MINNESOTA ( just kidding! ) The idea of adding a "rock" section is a novel one. I think if you seperated that further into sport/trad it would cause even more controversy than what already appears on the site. It seems like there are a lot of great ideas that folks have out there as to how to make this site "bigger and better", "quicker and easier". Yet, its not often you see someone jump up and say, "hey I'll help with this! Let's do it!". (maybe Im wrong and there are, they just dont make it public?) If people want to see changes, its probably going to require a little help...whether that be posting in the right forum, moving posts to the appropriate forum if your a moderator, or stepping forward and volunteering your time/knowledge. Jon and Timmy seem to be somewhat superhuman with all they do, but geeeesh...there is a limit to what even superhumans can do! I would be willing to help because I have gained a lot from this site (both information and opportunites on my trips to the pnw which I wouldnt have had without people from this site). I just dont know what I could do, since I am halfway accross the country and dont have much knowledge of the pnw...or climbing for that matter! Thanks for all you do Jon and Timmy! Its appreciated even from afar! Cheers!

btw...unless we start getting some freezing temps around here in the next couple weeks...this rain is plainly useless!

Alex, Thanks for putting so much thought into the post and offering your suggestions. (attitude...thank you as well...very helpful!). I guess I have accumulated a majority of the necessities. A few more things are in order this winter...new pack and sleeping bag! I have a hard time deciphering between whats a necessity, novelty, and useless when it comes to actual climbing gear (not clothing, camping equipment). For example...you need qd's to lead. I buy a handful of them. Do some mock leads...and THEN learn how much better it would be to make your own qd's. Now I feel like Ive just wasted x amount of money, because I will eventually want to buy slings and biners to make my own instead. Or, learning to use a prussik as a back up on rappell...buying numerous sizes/lengths of cord to see what works best. Only to later find out how much better an autoblock works. I will spare you with the numerous other examples of how I have wasted money thus far... I guess a lot of it is learning by trial and error to decide what you like/what works best for you. I dont always have a more experienced person to climb with and try their gear. So, its kind of up to me to gather the information from what ever resources I have and hope I can make the best decision before I make a purchase. And, I can understand how you would rack up a HUGE cc bill on prodeals! I made a deal with myself when I started working at the store that I would ONLY spend the amount I make there. Ive stuck to it and it works well. It probably prevents me from buying too many useless items.

THis borders on stupid, funny, and even a bit sad... yesterday as we were getting ready to rapp down a route we had a family gawking at us...saying many funny/annoying things, which we basically ignored (ie/"hope you all get down in one piece"). Then the little 8 yr old boy says, "But how is the GIRL going to get down?"

I was a witness to it all!

Now I must participate in somewhat of the thread drift... This soloing has weighed heavy on my mind since last ice season. Please keep in mind Im still in the midst of forming my opinion on the subject. I started dinking around on my own, bouldering and such on ice, last winter. I always chose to do this on my own, when no one was around. My reasoning...I am completely responsible for myself. I accepted the risks and understood I would be responsible for getting myself out of a bad situation. Soloing around others would then put the responsibility onto them if I were injured. I dont find that to be fair. When I would see other people soloing, I was okay with it for the most part. I trusted the fact that they new their limits and wouldnt put ME in a traumatic situation. What I have a hard time with is watching my partner, who started soloing on ice toward the end of last season. I know he would not want to put me in a traumatic situation. Yet, the thought of having to deal with an "unneccesary" accident when someone you care about is involved is not a risk Im willing to accept. I know that doesnt make sense due to the fact that climbing in general is inherently risky...or driving...or.... For now, the people I climb with, on whatever medium, usually come to the agreement that we will ask each other BEFORE we start soloing if everyone is kosher with it. If one person is not, then its saved for another time. This has been an interesting thread to read. Thanks!

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Any newbies have a comment on this subject Well, I would consider myself a newbie (I wonder how much longer I can get away with that excuse! ), who uses this site for information, advice...and yes, often entertainment. What I get from this site when I ask questions are usually a lot of answers that either confirm something I already know, or offer me a springboard. I typically follow up thru reading and talking with other experienced climbers in my area. I never base my actions off of one opinion or post. This is my life we are talking about. I couldnt imagine taking someone's word as the gospel without reviewing and accepting the various consequences involved. I see others' advice on this site (or elsewhere) as an option to explore, but not mandatory to reach whatever goals I may have.

WOW! I needed a smile tonight! Thanks for sharing! congrats mattp et al! (now shouldnt some of you be on a honeymoon rather than sprayin' on cc.com! )

I glanced at this post earlier in the afternoon, but didnt follow thru on reading the article. The details were brought to my attention while answering a "climbing" call at the store and I found myself speaking to a reporter from our local news. NOT cool! It is really tough news for myself and others in this community to swallow. Ed truley was an inspiration and will be missed by many.

Got the radios...cheapos, as suggested. My partner thought they were way "fun". I almost sensed a bit of relief from him. I honestly felt a little dumb at times. I wound up telling others I have a hard time hearing. Most folks were pretty accepting. I think they will take some getting used to and DEFINATELY can not be the only thing we rely on....(we wound up w/interference and heard how "johnny had to use the bathroom" and numerous other conversations in various languages :yellaf). Although they were helpful on one climb today, they served their purpose the best when we hid one in a crack along the top of a climb. i would have paid money to see the tourists' faces as they sat on the edge of the cliff dropping peanut shells on us and then heard: "This is the park ranger. We do not allow any nuts in this park..." We saw them retreat immediately. At any rate, I feel relieved that I have some solid ideas on better communication to keep us safe...and that we are putting them in action.