carolyn

Im really diggin' the patagonia R.5 and R1's these days over a fleece jacket.

moose droooooooool is my latest fav! Pete's Wicked Ale...yummmmy! James Page Burly Brown Ale...occassionally an amber. I liked TG's stout...and to my suprise, even the IPA! A good 'ol budweiser will tide me over quite well tho!

Nice to see I turned into a 'gumby' over the weekend as well!

Next year if I havent moved my ass out to WA, I am going to make plans to attend the rope up. I missed it by a week last year. And this year, well.... Thank you for entertaining me during a very looooong, boring weekend (for various reasons). I must say, I was happy to wake up this morning and have to sweep snow off my car! May the 'inbetween' phase be short and sweet... Wonder powers activate...into the shape of....a frozen waterfall!

or how about the wiggles!!!!!

Personally, I prefer Barney [ 10-19-2002, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

haha! Thats funny E-Rock. Actually, 'rock stars' are just like any of us...some are ass holes...some are really great people. Ive actually found groupies to be much more irritating over the years.

quote: Originally posted by E-rock: Do you have anything to climb or ski in Minnesota? ya, I climb the barstools here in MN! I often have to use an autoblock for the rapp off the stool, cause I dont like to land on my ass! On occasion Im lucky to catch a firemans belay! The North shore is the prime area for rock around here....cliffs along lake superior and some cool inland schtuff. Some smaller crags all over the state. Single pitch. Sit starts from your car, kind of approach. Ice... Again, short approaches. SIngle pitch...but all over! Head up into canada (5-6hrs from the cities) and you can get into multipitch climbs. The ice is great out here, if you havet he balls to brave the cold!!!! Skiing..... you mean xcountry, right?

Yup, that be in MN. Ive seen the flaming lips a few times. I bartend at a nightclub (the one where purple rain was filmed). I would say flaming lips and iggy pop top my list of best shows Ive seen there. I hear ya on the big show thing, tho. Im pretty burned and jaded when it comes to music. Ive heard "One foot in the Grave" a few times. A good friend of mine toured with beck waaaaaay back in the beginning. one time he played at the club. it was an all ages show, so you had to have an id to get into the drinking area. I carded him. He didnt have his id. I turned him away. He put up a big fuss. I didnt know it was him at frist! GEEEESH! Rock stars!!!!!!!!

Actually I shouldnt complain about the weather too much. Its that inbetween rock and ice season right now. We seem to be getting an early start on the snow and cold compared to the last few years. Let the temps drop and the freshies (did I just say freshies?!?!? ) fly!!!!!!!!!

Ted, I get your point. I guess I was more or less implying that Im not going to be a hero. If a firemans belay is available to me, why not take it. As someone who has been injured by falling objects, Im super careful and aware of knocking shit down. And overly paranoid when below someone. Good to hear you set people up with some sort of back up...Ive seen too many people teach others to rapp and just let 'em go. Fern- Thanks for the ideas!

E-Rock- I believe the flaming lips are the back up band for a beck show which either just took place or will be taking place out here soon. What an AWESOME show that would be, eh?! If it makes you feel any better muffy... the weather is crap here...might have to resort to the gym tomorrow. (no offense to you plastic pullers...its just not really my cup of tea). [ 10-19-2002, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

I was initially taught to use a prussik above the belay device. It definately eased my mind as a beginner. Now Im starting to use the autoblock. At first that didnt feel as secure, but now Im more comfortable with it. It also feels a lot smoother than the prussik. Not that the prussik is really hard to make, but I seem to find an autoblock more efficient and easier to get 'right'. There were a few times with the prussik that it loosened up on me and just became more of a nuisance (maybe it wasnt right and I didnt check it before going down). Its kind of a given, but as a beginner with so many things going on in my head it seemed like the last thing I would do was weight and test the knot....big mistake! If there is someone below I always have them do a fireman's belay. I figure whats it gonna hurt? Walking off is often just as easy (around here anyway) and probly safer. So unless I have to rapp, I dont. The hardest part I have with rappelling is the start. You know, the foot or more before you are completely over the edge with the rope tight? As a beginner, Thats where a loss of control seems to be the most likely. [ 10-19-2002, 07:00 AM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

while we are somewhat on the subject of melting snow...I was told when melting snow for drinking water, you need to add something else to it (tea, lemonade, whisky;), etc) or it doesnt do you any good. True?!

a wool sock over the nalgene has always worked great for me. And then, what fern said...the upside down trick.

quote: Originally posted by Scotch-a-Go-Go: Mountain bucks is what they used to call their employee discount program. Generally described by my friends that worked there at the time as "a rip-off". But I'm sure times are different now. I will have to ask about that. We just prodeal thru the company or get a very nice discount if buying off the shelf. The later is what I wind up doing often, due to poor planning or lack of interest in 'waiting' for the mail. ive tried to convince them, since I spend at least 90% of my paychecks IN the store, that I should get a hefty raise. Pay me $100/hrx10 hrs/wk=Sell approx $1000 worth of gear to me/week = some kind of profit...$100 bucks or so? Not including the fact that if I own it and like it I will sell it like hotcakes. Just think if they did this for EVERYONE who worked there (just to get gear), how much they would profit! Tell me this makes as much sense to you as it does to me! [ 10-12-2002, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

looks like its all inside, eh? Thanks for the link.

aaah! I was curious, because I do clinics thru the winter on a styrofoam tower (actually mixed) at the store. We have looked at expanding it and having some comps, but its a no go (budgeting) for now. We tried to pull together an ice swap at the last minute last year. It went okay. We are working on a bigger swap this year. Sounds like what is going on out there is what some of us have in mind over here. anyone have photos of it?

quote: Originally posted by To The Top: Scot'gucci, I am goin to do the real stuff. I take it this isnt real ice people will be climbing (except for TTT)? Is it styrofoam? (damn! That word looks funny....styrafoam, stirofoam, foam, fome..... ) [ 10-12-2002, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]

quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: As I drove to Bellevue, and to the BOX I would spend this day inside, I saw the best sunrise, with views of Rainier and the Mountains to the east. man! Sounds like a MUCH nicer drive to work than I had! The grand 'ol, dirty Mississippi is the extent of natural features I saw! Really, though...(I'll be the optimist here)...there are plenty of nice days left...its just a matter of how you look at it. I for one am anxiously awaiting the nostril freezing cold and white powder to fall over here!

Astragulus root is a good prevention at the first sign of a cold, cough, flu, etc... Use it as a tonic. you can get it in a powder and mix it in with soups to help deal with the taste. It helps protect the immune system among other things. Just make sure to drink extra fluids (which you should anyway) because it can promote fluid loss (sweating). I second the garlic...but its got to be fresh...not cooked, sauteed,etc. Makes ya smell real nice, too! If its too late...boil a big pot of water. steep some chamomile and peppermint. Hold your head over the pot with the herbs and water...put a towel over your head to allow more steam. Clears ya up in a heartbeat! Throat coat tea rules! And sometimes...ya just gotta go with the nyquil! Feel better soon!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: In Washington State, we have a program called Basic Health (I think). This program is specifically for people who are not eligible for health insurance for whatever reason (unemployed or whatever); premiums are based on how much you make per month, so it is meant to remain affordable for those who don't make much money. Might be something to look into. We have a couple similar programs as well. Unfortunately I make too much for any of them...and I dont make a whole heck of a lot between my 5 jobs! Pre-existing conditions will forever keep me from getting private insurance. It will need to come from an employer. Not usually possible with part time/seasonal work. Like I said, this is a very frustrating topic for me in my day to day life...because I KNOW I need insurance. We all have our own set of circumstances which we have to do our best to deal with in order to take care of ourselves. Trust me, Im doing my part the best I can. Thanks for the info/links to the Washington Health Care Program! Insurance is an important piece as I work on my plan of action to move out there. Good discussion w/ lots of resources to look into! Thanks!

Kristin? Kristin? Let me think ... ummmmmmmmm.... NOPE! Oh wait! Does she have something to do with that new snafflehound sanctuary opening up?

aaaaahhhhhhggggg! HEALTH INSURANCE! One of the few things in life that TRULEY frustrate and piss me off! I lost my health insurance last year around this time. After a potentially serious accident last spring (while climbing), I found myself in a canadian hospital. Although they tried to find every which way to get the money up front, they didnt deny me the necessary treatment. Had my injuries been more serious and financially costly, Im not sure what I would have done. (btw...bless canada! The hospital never even billed me, which was implied before I left). Since then, I worry about it a lot while climbing...mainly when Im further away from home. I have tried to adopt E-Rocks' philosophy of not allowing the lack of ability to afford insurance to limit my freedom. Not just in climbing, but life in general. I started a post a while ago about insurance...not many responses, except to look into aac. If I remember correctly, that was mainly rescue insurance. As I begin to plan more trips, I expect I will join. Its affordable and I think my responsibility. Travellers insurance seems to exclude climbing activities. If anyone knows of travellers insurance which DOESNT, please fill me in! Dont let the lack of insurance keep you from doing what you love. If for some reason you were injured, whatever bills you acquire can be worked out. Hospitals often elimate costs, if they see there is no way you will be able to pay. Climb on!

"Mountain Bucks"? What am I missing? Whats that? Im going to participate in starting my own 'thread drift'... quote: Originally posted by DavidW: If you are relatively new to trad climbing and your partners dont have the proper gear then they are probably not the proper partners. Im not sure if I agree with this statement. I think I understand where it is coming from...not encouraging one to 'self teach' trad skills. THAT I can agree with. Its important to make sure there is someone you can follow and practice with to learn good/safe technique. However, because my partner does not have the gear or the experience himself, doesnt mean I shouldnt be climbing with him. As long as we have people who are able to evaluate our progress and give us feedback on a regular basis, I dont think there is anything wrong with going it on our own. In an ideal world, a 'newbie', like myself would be climbing with a more experienced person all the time. Its just not realistic though. My guess is that most climbers gained a bit or a majority of their experience thru exploring on their own (reading, asking questions, hands on practice, etc). I cant afford to hire a guide everytime I have a question or want to move a step further. I cant climb with my mentor or a more experienced climber each time I head out on the rock or ice. So, what is one to do? sorry if any of this sounds defensive. Not meant to be. I just get frustrated when someone throws a roadblock in front of my desire to learn. Thoughts on the subject? ANyone relate to when they first started out? ANyway.... Scotch-a-go-go...I might have a sat or two free this month, if the weather cooperates and your interested in getting some climbing in before the lull. I also start running the ice tower at Midwest (I know , not your fav place ) this wkend. Stop in and say hi if you have a chance. I'll email you with more info on it, if ya like. Oh ya! And those suburbs! I work "there" too (bartend). One show was ENOUGH for ME! [ 10-09-2002, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: carolyn ]