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Everything posted by genepires
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maybe ellensburg just got internet hookups.
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recalled Petzl Sarkens - opting not to return them
genepires replied to Sean_T_Stevenson's topic in The Gear Critic
Sarkens came with a plastic toe bail so you could use them on boots that were fairly rigid without a real welt, like the garmont towers. None of the petzl line with waterice front points come with this option. Sarkens are much lighter than M10 and did better in snow walking than dartwin. (built in anti bot) I went through the same mental torture about the crampons but finally traded them in for the dartwin. -
The boot having the most fun.
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La Sportiva EVO Batura,The Next Best Thing!?
genepires replied to Delmarco's topic in The Gear Critic
while definately a nice looking boot, it looks like it will have the same problem as those big everest type boots with the built in gaiters. what happens when you trash the gaiters with your crampons? while being less bulky than ultra warm boots so maybe good footwork will be less a problem. would hate to see such expensive boots trashed. -
that looks sweet! thanks for sharing. gene
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grade 8 ice climb crampon, mono and dual points
genepires replied to genepires's topic in The Yard Sale
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_9306.jpg -
I have too many crampons! I am selling my charlet moser grade 8 crampons. These are waterfall ice climbing crampons, not really mountaineering crampons. I have the dual point set and a mono point conversion kit too. Only one of the dual point have been used in the mono point setup. The mono point has never been used. I have used this crampon for about 4 days every winter for the last 9 years so they are not new, except for 4 of the 6 points. I would like to get $75 for the whole setup and I'll throw ina crampon bag too. you can get a hold of me at 360 805 1024 or at genepires@hotmail.com or PM me on this site. will try to get photos in soon
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the hardest route is the one having the most fun confounding and scaring climbers
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I am no expert in cody but i have been out there a couple times. Both times in february. But I think the biggest problem with going out there early season is the river not being completely frozen over. For early season stuff you want to be on the north facing side which means crossing the wide, fairly shallow and slow moving river. You can be all means wade across but really.. UGH! Locals do it but I think they are used to that kind of self torture. With forcast like you mention, I doubt that south facing climbs are in. Cowboy up and get on it! Let us know if you go and if you see any grizzlies.
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Maybe I am wierd but I have found that for me, a sock without a liner works better than with a liner. I have felt that the modern socks like smartwool and thorlo were soft enough on the inside to not need a liner sock. The liner sock idea came about when everyone had on wool socks which was practically a steel wool shaped thing. Newer socks also wick moisture so well that a poly blend liner sock is not needed to keep the skin dry. My cheap liner socks just sag down and bunch up causing blisters. just my 2 cents. maybe I am lucky with tough feet.
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tromp around snoq pass area. Up to source lake or common wealth basin. You could basically get a hiking guidebook and find a trail with a lake to go to and camp. Chances are for snoq pass area, those trails will be packed out for most of the winter. Usual reservations- Learn to evaluate avalanche conditions. Listen to professional avi advice (NWAC) and believe it. People have died on the trail to source lake and almost everywhere else that seems "safe".
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where do you live? (for nearby reccomendations) you will need a stove board of some kind so the stove doesn't melt down into the snow. Are you looking for easy winter peaks to get up as well as camping?
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gonna be dark n COLD. enjoy!
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best of luck to ya Mikey! We should all fly to SLC to climb with ya. try canyoneering in zion. you may like the change once in a while.
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take a avi course but also head out for some smaller objectives (with other people) and get experience. Knowledge is very good but knowledge that is put to use over time is called wisdom. the little voice in the head (from wisdom)is much more valuable than a course alone. Winter on rainier is not a place to develop skills. Go solo st helens or baker first. A added plus, soloing these is legal vs on rainier.
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anyone have a descent idea what conditions are normally like in ouray ice park in the first week of march? thanks gene
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never a truer statement than above made on cc.com
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if mixed and ice is your game, then both Gadd and Isaac both have how to guides that have winter specific training ideas. maybe use these in the fall to get ready for winter. horst has the better rock specific training book. It is mainly a rock gym book. mtneer books "expert series" has a training book that is mainly a indoor gym and cardio training that is very good. has different training for different sport and time of year. I forget the title. rock warrior way complements these books well as it deals with mental (fear) aspects of climbing. probably the best training we could work on.
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we drove through there saturday morning and somebody had locked the gate on the darrington side of the construction area with a bike lock. Hhmmm. lots of hunters who didn't want drivers to disturb the deer? didn't want to walk off road? the gate is not there anymore.
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with freedom of the hills in hand, we were off to pawtuckaway state park in new hampshire. With our new rope, TR setups and one pair of rock shoes for the both of us, we managed to find a good little climb in 2 hours, set up a TR in under 3 hours, climb it twice in another 3 hours and then break it all down in another hour. On the way out, my buddy fell off during a short down climb, crashed into me and we both went tumbling down a wooded hillside. We had a big day and thought we got alot done. gumby! On the way out, a local hardguy was telling us how to climb a overhanging corner we were looking at, spewing all this lingo. Something about layback, stem, undercling, blah, blah and more blah. We were impressed but thought he was insane. I was hooked.
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was it closer to source lake or actually on the tooth?
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So I am looking at this karhu meta ski and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these. I must admit that I am a non-skier so the more high performance skis won't work for me. I am interested in mainly approaching ice climbs and a little x country with the misses and kids. These skis have a built in binding much like the split boards. So my question is: how is it good at following in skier tracks uphill? (is the binding to wide to easily follow in narrow ski tracks) how is it going downhill if you were a decent skier? thanks in advance gene
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anybody have experience with the dartwin? Might be a reasonable alternative/replacement to the sarken? Is the lack of antibot on the front piece that bad?
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sweet day in darrington slabbage! running up silent running to finish with the kone. Leaves are turning color up there.
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first ascent [TR] Cutthroat Wall - Easy Getaway (F.A. III 5.10-) 8/29/2007
genepires replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
nothing harder than 5.4. (just kidding) might be a little soft mainly due to the less sustained nature. The photo of the zebra corner looks steep and burly in the photo but that is an illusion. Our 3rd pitch was unsure if we were on route or not. Not as obvious as the other pitches. (clean wise) It is rather impressive though on the clean nature of the rock and cracks. would have expected lots of gardening. Did seem to get a tad bit dirtier the higher you go. good route and good find blake. I wonder if mazama locals hit this area up but have kept it silent.