We got to the Ruth in early June two years ago, coming from the Kahiltna, and the ice routes were pretty much gone in the Ruth. They had been climbable through May but it just got too warm, and shit was coming down!!.
Wut I don't get though is that Twight recomends "eating" three GUs every hour during a climb. Frequently climbs last 12, 15, even 20 hours. So does he advocate carrying sixty GU's! That's a lot of fuckin GU.
The earlier the better for the Ruth. Also seems like a lot of weather gets stuck down there while its alot nicer up higher like at the Kahiltna. I had shitty weather there in June.
There are guidebooks for all of these places individually. Some old former Cascade hardman qua burnout named Jim Yoder and his wife have a relatively new guidebook for (disad)Vantage(d) and some retired Microsoftee / nerd-type dude named Garth has a way too detailed guidebook out for the Si area.
Some reputable sources informed me this route has been unclimbed though has been attempted. In fact it was our objective for this trip. However, when we got there it did not look very attractive as the coliour/gullet was filled with snow. Concsensus is it might make a good early season route, given proper conditions.
Rolf and I just failed on Pyramid today. Got a few miles up the trail and realized it was just too warm for the project after I took off my poly pro and started to hike in just schoeller pants and no shirt.
Now I'm drunk. Shit.