specialed

I haven't climbed the West Butt but I've used aluminum cramps and I've climbed in Alaska. Even though west butt isn't very technical, I'd still go with steel b/c aluminum crampons suck on real hard snow or any type of ice.

Arnie's the man. He just passed a bill that promotes solar energy use too. He should run for President.

No this is Eric W, alpine rock toughguy and international playboy extrordinare.

Lovelace is funny. Its all a very straight forward climb, until, well... the 5.8 chimney pitch towards the top. Starts out fun 5.9, then straight forward aid pitch with like one or two smaller nuts at the crux. Then two fun 5.9 pitches (one a cool fists / off fists offwidth). Then the crux - a 5.10+ bigger than fists offwidth. After the "crux," we thought we were home free, with the topo showing a 5.8 pitch then a 5.9+ fists to the top out. Of course we started this Grade V at like 10 in the morning, so it was getting late at that point. But 2 easy pitches no problem. So, Eric goes on lead and pretty soon is like "you sure this is the way?" Of course, its obviously the way. To summarize: Eric thrashes and struggles with the "5.8" pitch witch turns out to be a 5.11 flaring chimney. Trying to climb it inside with a tipped out #5 for pro was a hateful sandy squeeze and going outside offer no pro, serious exposure, and apparantly a very akward chimney due to the flair. I wanted to give it a go, but it was near dark, so Eric downclimbed to a drilled angle about half-way up the pitch and we lowered. Then we bailed getting down to the base at dark. Talking to some locals later, we found out that pitch is a notorious sandbag and has turned back many a strong climber. Nevertheless its a super bitchin climb and we had lots of fun even though we didn't top out. The other lines on the East Temple sure look cool. Cowboy Bob looks rad, and apparently one rumor is that the last pitch - the 5.10+ R sandy face isn't so bad or you can go around or something.

I was too scared to take my digi on any of those climbs. Between the butt squeezing offwiths and exfoliating sandstone my camera would have been squished or filled with sand or both. Should have bought a disposable or something though.

There's some great obscure long free routes there than few people climb because they are too dirty / sandy and have lots of wide cracks. We camped next to some Colorado dudes, one of whom was supposed to be some badass alpine ace. All he did was whine about how shitty, dirty, and loose Zion was. They bailed from one climb and tried to do another but ended up hiking around and could't even find it. Then they ended up packing up and going to Indian Creek. We had a blast though. Great adventurous climbing.

No Kolob. Weather wasn't super great and apparantly the road was washed out for part of the time we were there. We did Equinox and Hue and Cry, and failed a pitch and a half from the top of Lovelace.

You should get on Death of American Democracy. Hee, hee, hee.

I'm not fat, I'm big boned!!

The Index Easter Bunny says Happy Easter!!

Holy Shit! That's a much better idea. A renewable resource. How Green!

Mr. Wobbly is totally sketchy. Its seen ATLEAST a 1000 feet of air.

I just got back from Zion and most certainly did my best to avoid any AID climbing. However, I did watch an aid climbing party across the canyon manage almost ONE whole pitch in the frigid shade while we cruised up a naughty little grade IV in the GLORIOUS sunshine. I snickered as we drank beer at the car in the evening and they froze on their little portaledge. Silly aid climbers.

We should just gather up the fat people put them in a big pot and render them for biodiesel. Solve two problems at once.

Mt. Who-the-fuck-cares ?

Biodiesel. That's the shit, man.

Is Muffy wildlife?

I think there's one lying at the base of the Blockhouse somewhere. I'd also be willing to lend you Mr. Wobbly.

Outdoor recreation does have impact on the natural environment including wildlife. But the impact is so minimal compared to impacts from other sources like housing development, timber harvesting, and oil drilling. It seems like effors might be better spent fighting the major and primary defilers of the environment as opposed to the recreators who, for the most part, tread lightly.

Leavenworth

That cabin would make a bitchin ski "hut."

Fuck, man, why don't you hire a guide, that way you can take even more adventure out of your climbing trips. All guide books are wrong in places. I've found McClane's data to be erroneous too. Taking some time when you go to a new area to find out where everything is is just part of the deal.

An extremely ugly and overweight lesbian woman with an annoying laugh?

So, "drytool night" is really just you hanging out alone in your bedroom pleasuring yourself without the benefit of hand lotion. Eck.