specialed

Nice work!! How you think Sherpa would be for ski down?

Rolf Larson and I climbed a line on the north face of Mt. Buckner on Sunday the 20th. Friday, after bivying at the trailhead, we skinned up the road and started up the trail to Boston Basin. Coincidentally a group of 3 skiers were off to ski the north colior on Buckner that same morning. Thrashed through the brush and above tree level by early afternoon up to within about 800 feet of the Sahale Boston col that day. Skiers continued on to make the traverse to Boston Glacier. Next day some weather moved in and vis was shitty at the col. We began the traverse. Good neve, exposure, heavy packs. Traverse, Down the Boston Glacier in light north face pow and across to the north face of Buckner that day. Scoped lines. Line we originally intended to climb looked too filled in with snow. Another line caught our eye that started with an ice flow then went into some snow and ice runnels. There was a direct start to this line that just looked too much like powder snow on rock. After another cold night in the Bibler, Rolf roused early with his usual sunny disposition and made a brew while I kept my head stuck in my sleeping bag. We trudged up to the ice fall. After some fucking around I finally started up the ice - a fun pitch with a decent steep section. From there we continued up steep snow and fun aesthetic mixed climbing. Here's a bad photo but gives an impression of the climbing. The neve was superb. Everything that looked like powder snow from the glacier was thick thunker neve. We realized we should have taken a steeper line or the direct start. About half way up the face we were able to look down at the direct start and it looked rad - with a classic ice and neve filled chimney with decent rock pro. What little girls we were for taking the conservative approach. More fun climbing led to the of the ridge and a classic ridge traverse with exposure and amazing views of the North Cascades in winter led to the summit. We paused in the sun and descended the north coliour back to the Bibler. It was only 1:30 by the time we got back to camp, so we made a brew and I told Rolf I was over spooning with him in the Bibler let's go home. We packed our shit and bolted. The skiers who had skiied the north coliour the day before had been farming the north facing slope from the Boston Sahale traverse notch down the glacier that day and had kicked a bitchin skin highway back up. Thanks skiers!! Got down to truck by 8:00 after a long exhausting day and had a beer. Named the route "Copa Cabana" after a friend who spent his President's Day weekend kiteboarding and drinking margaritas in Mexico with bikini babes instead of the Rolf Larson lovefest of freezing ass and killing ice. Shot of the route from bro's arial photo page: The Copa Direct remains. If this high pressure holds someone should go crush!!!

This has probabaly already been covered, but DOT is starting to plow WA Pass. May be open in a couple weeks. Fuckin Crazy. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2002186487_northcascades22m.html

There is no such thing as an "alpine arete."

"Clintoris." That's funny shit.

Recuperating from three days in the mtns. Getting some work done. Planning on going outside soon to enjoy the sun and have some beers.

Yeah looks like you're getting A LOT of work done.

Climbing gym employee, since it doesn't really relate to real climbing.

Every day, Dru. Every day.

Is that your Dad?

Pulled the rope on a crag climb and the end of the rope hit me in the dick. How could you tell Because I doubled over in pain and screamed "The rope just hit me in my fucking dick!"

I don't know about 13b, but it will definitly help you climb harder.

Pulled the rope on a crag climb and the end of the rope hit me in the dick.

Love the article about poisonous snakes of the Cape Peninsula. Adding some objective danger to sport climbing.

Deja Vu

need and want are to entirely different things Ever since you gave me those little blue pills, Minx, I NEED another goat.

Those old outdoor catalogs, circa 1970's, are great. Naked hippy chicks selling sleeping bags and shit.

Might see you there Tim. We'll be there from March 12 - 21st. Free dirtbag camping a few miles outside of Springdale on the river side. Popular spot for climbers, latino vacationers, and so cal party kids.

Aid is aid.

I'd rather hunt Canadians than drink Old Crow.

I'm a card carrying member of PETA People for the Eating of Tasty Animals. Yum.

Maybe check that cycle shack place on the Burke Gilman near Fremont. Trader Ho's also stocks some sports drinks for cheap and good deals on energy bars too. But REI is probably your best bet.

R E motherfucking I

The nodder is: a. Dumber than a stack of rocks b. Queerer than a three dollar bill c. All of the above.