specialed

Put in mileage. Don't worry about it, just keep climbing as much as possible. You'll become more and more comfortable with the feel of using trad gear for pro, and it will get easier and more comfortable. Through repetition you can achieve focus. But I always tell myself when climbing above gear: that people do this all the time, its safe, and nothing to get sketched about. If you need some extra motivation though watch "Hard Grit" and see british dudes taking huge whippers onto hand-placed pins, #1 RP's and the like. It makes fat cam placements feel super bomber.

Last I heard, it was really cold and snowy. Bad Avy danger and everyone was skiing. I don't know about the current conditions, but I recently saw an article about the North Ghost. That place looks sick!! I'm headed out to Golden in March if conditions permit and I'm stoked to ice climb in the Rockies!!!

Which ever one's the loudest, of course.

Bring your chainsaw.

Or his search for the ever elusive Yeti of the high Himalaya.

Check out these pants from Solstice http://www.solsticegear.com/products.asp?cat=2&prod=24 I've found they make good gear at a reasonable price.

hepuffshepuff

"Yeah, like that freakin 2 or 3mm ratty ass piece of cord on the fixed rurp on Touchstone, all frayed and bleached, I really thought it'd pop (I wasn't rapping off it) but it hung in there and is still there as far as I know." That 1mm natty shoelace was there last I was in Zion. Sketchy. Reminds me of the "Fred Becky Specials" you find all over rock routes in the Cascades, all sorts of archaic funky homemade crap. They Look like Fred Becky put them in on the first ascent in like 1925 and shit. [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: specialed ]

I was just having this same problem. None of the stores in Seattle carry it and neither does amazon. I emailed alaho to see if they'll do mail order. But if not, I'll be up in Canada before too long anyway.

I've been looking for such a book. I didn't know if anyone had written one. Thanks dude.

Thanks. Is there any decent ice climbin in BC closer to Seattle/Vancouver than Lillouet?

Does anyone (Dru) know where these ice climberin places are?

Fuck that. Your playing Russian Roullette with those gnarly old slings. Its cheap and easy to just replace them. I trust old cord alot more than I do webbing though.

From what I've heard, BD engineers say you can drop your biners off El Cap and use 'em again. I think that micro fracture crap is a bunch of BS. I've taken mad whippers on most of my pieces and I'd do it again, and again, and again. But it is a rational question about when to replace webbing. If its been in your closet don't worry about it. My rock pro and draws get used more than Capt. Caveman's mom, maybe I should replace that 7-year-old factory webbing on my gear?

I'd imagine they wouldn't get trashed if you soft used them in soft snow, and didn't use them too many times. In crusty, or corn-type conditions they might get cut up a bit espescially if you have sharp edges. You might consider buying some BD Snake Skins, which are plastic and cheap but don't work super well. They'd get you through for now until you got your randonne set up going.

Its 4:20.

Sounds bomber to me. Replace the webbing though if you want. Prety tame compared to most anchors you find/build in the mountains.

I believe Mt Persis is covered in the new Sky Valley Rock guide book.

Its all good! That's the beauty of it.

Check out the Wild Things Icesac. http://www.wildthingsgear.com/icesac.html Its durable, light, perfect size, comfortable, and a great value. And it has ice tool slots.

Whoa Deja Vu, Seems we've had this discussion before. Or maybe its just cause we've had this discussion before. As, Jason Lakey, the guru of climbing and smokin' says, maybe you just need to "see more people crankin' it on dope." *Smoke Pot Check Knot* [ 01-29-2002: Message edited by: specialed ]

One Easter, my Dad saw Alan Watts solo Karate Crack naked with an easter egg in his mouth.

WHAT! and miss out on the Old Style Pilsner. No Way.

Yeah, buried under about twenty feet of snow.

A caveat: even if all you were going to do is clean aid, I'd say carry a hammer anyway for cleaning nuts. Its often the only way to get those really stuck fuckers out.