specialed

A bunch of tube chocks and clog nuts my old man gave me, along with his whillans harness. Worthless, except for a laugh every now and then.

Well my shittiest pice of gear's probably my poop tube.

the only gear you should take for that couliour there is a pair of skis with sharp edges. Or if your rad a snowboard so you can carry a set of ice tools.

Caroline: Raichle Thermoflex custom liners. Used mostly for ski boots but work excellent in plastic ice boots. Hey, I'm going to be in Minneapolis visiting relatives over Christmas. I know its been unseasonably warm there this year. Has any ice formed around town? Is it worth bringing my ice gear?

Town Crier, upper Index town wall, if you want an fun, easy multipitch route with a lot of easy hammerless aid.

Since I'm relatively new to ice climbing, and the area (sort of) how bout some beta for planning winter ice climbing road trips: where is the closest "destination" ice area? Is Lillouet any good? any areas in interior BC that consistently have fat ice?

I can't go climbing with you, but I can kick down some beta on Colchuck Balanced Rock.

My old man, my first climbing mentor, was a` ranger and did a tour in 'Nam. He's still the biggest bad-ass I know.

YEAH good beta. I'll be "camping" in my van so one less thing to worry about. As far as buying food outside the valley, can you store lots of it? I've heard to bring a padlock for bear boxes, but wouldn't space be limited if everyone's using them? Yossarian, I'll be there in September looking for partners.

Henry barber even clmbed shoeless on his visit to Dresden, in order to fully appreciate the local standards and practices.

Ok all you Yosemite veterans, in anticipation of my maiden voyage to the valley this fall I think it would be useful to collect suggestions, beta for getting by in the valley dirtbag style. I've heard of various scams like poaching used food from tourists, sneeking into the cafeteria, etc. Any other wiley ideas for how to live like a king and party like a rockstar on a "leisure class" budget?

Which is what yuu can expect of any small town with a highway running through it.

Its the original laser surgery technology that causes prob's at altitude, not lasek. I've climbed with someone at 19,500 who had lasek and had no problems. From everything I've heard and read, its totally safe. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-20-2001).]

Good work boys! Its irrelevent whether or not the choppers can lead DDD w/o bolts. Its the mystery, potential of failure, and awe that draw us to climbing. Just knowing that there are stout, intimidating routes out there is what motivates me to climb hard and train (boulder). For those of us who aspire to climb routes like DDD, it makes us stronger people and climbers when routes like DDD are left in their original condition. And Lambone, safety is relative.

Dru, I didn't want to have to tell you this, but: I'm your father.

"Don't touch me." -Dean Potter, to a bewildered party doing the Nose in classic multi-day style as he literally runs past them on speed-solo ascent.

Don't touch me

http://www.climbing.com/Pages/newnews00.html#vandal

Has anyone done the Snaz? Isn't there a devious runot OW section involved?

I'm looking into the Lasek thing. SO nice not to have to deal with contacts, glasses, prescription sunglasses, etc. Probably save money in the long run.

Rock quality is all relative. when I was climbing in Montana, I was used to the dirty and loose rock with flairing crack systems in Blodgett Canyon. I thought the few high-quality cracks there made up for everything else. After climbing a lot out here and B.C.: Index, Squamish, Washington Pass, the Bugs, I went back there and all I could think about was how shitty the Bitterroot is, when it used to not bug me that much. If people learn to climb on solid rock at the crag or a choice alpine destination, or are just used to it, when they encounter mildly shitty rock they freak out and label it as horrid, etc. It all depends on what you're looking for and what you're used to I guess.

Good for Lance and all but climbings such a way kewler sport than anal-retentive road biker racing

from a gym climber no doubt

Will: what variety of ultra-light parafenalia did you bring along? Titanium pipe, plastic bong? Rolling doobies would be the lightest way to go, eh?

Seems like he shamlously plugs WC friends as the only safe SLCD to use, dismissing others as patent work-arounds and cheap immitations. Yeah Right, he just wants to get paid. Still an amazing guy though.