specialed

Does anyone (Dru) know where these ice climberin places are?

Fuck that. Your playing Russian Roullette with those gnarly old slings. Its cheap and easy to just replace them. I trust old cord alot more than I do webbing though.

From what I've heard, BD engineers say you can drop your biners off El Cap and use 'em again. I think that micro fracture crap is a bunch of BS. I've taken mad whippers on most of my pieces and I'd do it again, and again, and again. But it is a rational question about when to replace webbing. If its been in your closet don't worry about it. My rock pro and draws get used more than Capt. Caveman's mom, maybe I should replace that 7-year-old factory webbing on my gear?

I'd imagine they wouldn't get trashed if you soft used them in soft snow, and didn't use them too many times. In crusty, or corn-type conditions they might get cut up a bit espescially if you have sharp edges. You might consider buying some BD Snake Skins, which are plastic and cheap but don't work super well. They'd get you through for now until you got your randonne set up going.

Its 4:20.

Sounds bomber to me. Replace the webbing though if you want. Prety tame compared to most anchors you find/build in the mountains.

I believe Mt Persis is covered in the new Sky Valley Rock guide book.

Its all good! That's the beauty of it.

Check out the Wild Things Icesac. http://www.wildthingsgear.com/icesac.html Its durable, light, perfect size, comfortable, and a great value. And it has ice tool slots.

Whoa Deja Vu, Seems we've had this discussion before. Or maybe its just cause we've had this discussion before. As, Jason Lakey, the guru of climbing and smokin' says, maybe you just need to "see more people crankin' it on dope." *Smoke Pot Check Knot* [ 01-29-2002: Message edited by: specialed ]

One Easter, my Dad saw Alan Watts solo Karate Crack naked with an easter egg in his mouth.

WHAT! and miss out on the Old Style Pilsner. No Way.

Yeah, buried under about twenty feet of snow.

A caveat: even if all you were going to do is clean aid, I'd say carry a hammer anyway for cleaning nuts. Its often the only way to get those really stuck fuckers out.

That's not true that EMR causes brain damage. I know because the little green man who lives in my kitchen cupboard told me. He's my friend. I just can't stand it when the household appliances laugh at me. I say toaster shut up, shut up! Stop looking at me toaster!

Lets just dwell on all the dangers and possible things that can go wrong when you're out climbing that way we'll just freak ourselves out thinking of all the heinous and painful ways to die when tools and pieces of gear pop and the friction doesn't exist. Whatever you do don't trust any gear or believe in your skill or ability when you're out climbing. TV's pretty good and safe. I'm gunna give up climbing and drink Mickey's with Dwayner.

North Face of North Trapper, huh? Rather obscure route. Done any other climbing in the Bitterroot?

The general capitalization of public lands is a mixed blessing. You're right Will, anytime an agency improves the land they feel they need to collect fees for it. The problem is they don't make a development, like add pit toilets, that is simple and relatively cheap but improves the area immensely. Thet feel they have to pave the roads, add a lodge and interpretive center, hire a staff, start a gift shop, rake the pine neadles, etc. And charge and arm and a leg to get in. I just hope they don't go overboard on Indian Creek.

This is a good thing in my opinion. Look at that nasty ass free camping spot outside Zion. There's trash everywhere and if you walk two feet into the trees theres mounds of shit and tp. Indian Creek needs some facilities and some sort of management plan.

I bet that most "hot shit" 5.14 climbers today couldn't get up on toprope some super technical footwork-intensive 5.11's put up in the 70's and 80's. How many 5.12/5.13 climbers do you know that climb that same grade on slabs. Very few.

Sounds like a question for Chongo Chuck.

Stay away from the PNW altogether and move a town in the Rockies. Though I have to admit the coolest place I've been is Bishop, CA. Every type of climbing or or outdoor pursuit is less than an hour away. Right next to Whitney and the Sierras, da Valley, and Toulumne. Near J-Tree and the Utah desert. Bad ass. Just no jobs at all.

It really truly is a cryin' shame.

Any beta on these or other Leavenworth area ice?

I've used them quite a bit. We had one on the Zodiak this fall. They don't come close to fitting in as many places as Aliens and they don't have the range that BD micros have. It held up just fine to some serious abuse though. For straight forward free climbing they're probably OK but for aid or if you want a lightweight rack for the mountains I'd say skip em.