slaphappy

snowmobiles rock.

They were clearly marked "lbs". Wish someone could hook me up with those cheap ones.

Not tryin to kick a dead horse in the jaw, but... Some facts for those that may be confused: Standard zinc plated quick links at Lowe's (Home Depot was slightly more$): 3/16"- 660 lbs working load limit; $1.82 1/4"-880 lbs working load limit; $1.96 5/16"-1765 lbs working load limit; $2.39 7/16"-2450 lbs working load limit; $2.67 Still would love to know where you guys find $.75-$.85 5/16"or bigger quick links!?

I was more curious about cheap quick links for chain anchors, I have never left one on webbing. Like I said the cheapest I had seen were around $2 for a 5/16". Home Depot is around $3, Lowe's is $2.19, and Freddy's are $1.99. Dylan, why does it matter where they were made? CBS, 3/16"?

Funny, I actually thought that the route you're refering to, Nubbin Grubbin 11b, is fairly spot on for the grade, it actually has holds.

slabs have three grades: 5.8+ challenging but doable by most experienced leaders 5.10+ the tiniest of holds or steep mainly blank dubious friction 5.11b someone accidentally freed it once; the temp has to be perfect, low humidity, steep, absolutely blank, and only the best of leaders even have a chance. Anything harder: see 11b

Freddie, you must be quite a bit taller than I remember

Where do you find quick links for $.85? What diameter are they? The cheapest I can find are around $2 for 5/16". Anything smaller I find frightening. I will sometimes use a single link of 3/8" chain, they are bomber.

The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered"

The south side of The Thumb up by Clem's Holler. Haven't tried it but it sure looks worthy. Starts as hands and turns into a nasty wide flare. From my understanding you'll need your "bag of tricks" for pro. *If you're up there, it's worth the quick hike over to Arselips and Elbows for 25' of 10" chimney pleasure. Nurse and Doctor Rock also have a few 5.10ish wide suckers that would be worth the approach. I'm pretty sure all have anchors. I recall "enjoying" them. Another I haven't done but is reportedly a fine "testpiece" is Big Bad Wolf at Grandma's House directly across from Castle Rock. It's been scrubbed and has anchors. ...and of course all the obvious ones. Sounds like a fun day. * Just thought of another I haven't tried but... Unnamed "cavern" left of Mastadon Roof. Perhaps a bit short.

I just purchased pair two. They seem to fit a wider foot quite well. Sensitive enough even close to shoe size. I used to only wear the Sportiva Miuras, but the doc said I'll need surgery if I don't start wearing wider more comfortable shoes. The Marathons have been great. They smear, climb cracks and face well enough for my humble abilities. Love that EVA sole. Second ascent recently had quite a few for around $80.

Why hard boots on the split setup? (just curious)

we could call it bannedkamp We need NEW BANNEDKAMP FORUM I would propose a TAG TEAM BATTLECAGE DEATH MATCH with Pope n' Dwayner vs. TRASK n' CBS... fuckin' awesome. We need action figures too, so my kid can play in the back seat on the road trips to yosemite. I WANT A MUFFY ACTION FIGURE oh wait ahhh errrr ummmmm okay I realy do I want some action from Muffy's figure too... Did I say that out loud?

Yes, and by hand.

"Dribble" 5.8+ G/1" - B/3 RS/165' Dribble starts just right and slightly above The Dog Ate My Topo behind a large fire scorched tree. Route: Friction up to the first bolt located in a bulge on a smooth stretch of stone. Climb slightly left on good face holds and then back right over the top of the bolt to a short finger crack. Jam crack to an overlap leading to a large clean well featured slab. Climb slab using 2 bolts and small horizontals for protection, heading a bit left to a good stance and a two bolt anchor. Descent: Rappel from anchors to the ledge above The Dog Ate My Topo using caution it is more than 100' to the chains, but the station can be scrambled too easily. Rap to ground 100'. Note: The route was not cleaned, done on lead, and drilled by hand. Expect some dirt and 5/16" button head bolts. Anyone climb it late last year? Rating? Any quality what-so-ever? -slap

No not at all. No interference while riding the board or with helmet on the machine. The top lid folds far enough down the "face" of the pack not to restrict motion what-so-ever; even fully loaded. I have noticed it's necessary to tuck the end of the shovel handle under the top lid to hold it snug. Otherwise it rotates around and has been bothersome/potentially dangerous, particularly on the snowmachine. It is obvious to me the designers of DaKine's packs truly use them for their intended purposes. A frequent BC partner of mine skis with the Heli-pro and loves it as well.

Have em, love em. Warm, dry*, burly, and comfortable. Perhaps a bit bulky but when dexterity is crucial I bring a thinner set of gloves as well. * any dampness from condensation build up or exterior superficial wetness dries quickly when seperated and heated.

Why do so many people like the Reverso so much? It turns into a razor blade in six months and gives a shitty lead belay. In most situations, climbing in a party of three blows, so you don't need the two at a time deal often. I tried two in one year and decided they suck. I use the HB Sheriff. No cable to jam it up and a smooth feed on lead belays. I add a second HMS when rapping with a pack (or terrified ) to increase friction.

I purchased one last fall to replace a Cirque Works board pack that I had been extremely happy with, I now like the Guide even more. Every aspect of the pack is well thought out, from the back panel access (essential when carrying a board or skis) to the probe and shovel pockets. The suspension system carrys well without loss of mobility while riding. I purchased it with the thought of carrying it as an overnight pack but after using it, carry it as my primary winter "touring" (hate the word, I'm a snowboarder) pack. It might be a tad big at times but cinches down easily enough to carry well. You might consider the Chute if you're a skier and the Guide is a bit big. The only negative thing I can think of about the Guide is I did tear off one of the load adjusting buckles on the shovel blade pocket but I was on a snowmobile and pretty sure I caught it on a tree limb or something... I'll send it back to be repaired after the season is over. I highly recommend the pack for the $.

Yup.

Bird- I think your talkin about "z-clipping" not back clipping. Muff, I mean Muffy- The rope leading to your waist should be over the biner not under when you clip correctly. Remeber to try and face the gate away from the direction of climbing, but if your gripped any old clip is better than fumbling and falling with a lot of rope out. Draw wise I prefer Petzl Spirits to any other biners, set in draws of varying lengths with one straight and one bent gate. They have a smooth action (even after they are WELL used), key-locks that don't catch on shit, and are fairly light weight. That said: I also use a lot of Omega Pacific and Trango wire gates on mountain and long trad routes. They are lighter, the gates don't chatter (better chance of falling on a closed gate), and they are far cheaper than Spirits.

Why on earth does it matter when Tony climbed the route? Does everyone need to immediately run home and blah blah blah what they did the day previous or earlier that day? Does this delay in time effect anyones decision on repeating a fine route? Perhaps he was gettin motivated for the up-in-coming season and tryin to share some of his enthusiasm.

Headspacer owns plenty of wire brushes and has the time and energy to revive one of these "lost classics". I'll bet he has the ability to upgrade any faulty hardware as well. Get to work Beyotch!

They got him out, but a day late. What a tragedy. Be careful out there no matter what your passion is.