slaphappy

Hmmm, I was enjoyin a breakfast PBR when you and company pulled into the "climber's lot" sunday AM... but I didn't leave any empties layin about. -Sure did notice A LOT of new* missing flakes on the Forest Land Boulders and one mutilated rattler (no need to kill the snakes!) * I say new but I don't boulder much and my last visit was 4-5 years ago. As Ben stated, many of these problems have history, don't pry off good shiite on established routes to make your own silly new variation, now if it pops off while climbing that's a different story...

were they full Schmidty's?

Shall I bring my Polaris RMK? I hear the snowmobiling at the hairpin is top notch!

Ratboy- were you an east coast/mid west adolecent in the early 80's growing up in a conservative suburban environment? if not, you'll never get it. I never said anything about what I went through or how awful my youth was. On the contrary, I had a supportive family, plenty of $, and good schooling, but the norms that suburban society expected from us at that time are far different from expectations here and now. How you looked acted and what you were expected to make of yourself was not really open for debate. College, good job, wife, and 2.3 kids was what was expected, anything else and you were a deviant. This is what we rebelled against; the frustrations of conformity. When people say "Punk is Dead", they are right. The music may still exist but the meaning behind it only lasted for a short period of time. I'm sure it has been replaced by something else as society has evolved.

Huh, I'm not really getting a "holier than thou" attitude outta what DooLittle is saying, are we reading the same shizzle? Perhaps he is simply relating some of his experiences from the past that helped formulate what he is today. I can relate to his experiences, as many of mine were similar. Breaking the norms of society and releasing some of the penned up aggression that was not socially acceptable in a upper-middle class suburban atmosphere was really what it was all about. My guess is that some of you who don't get it, never will cause you simply had to be there at that time. Here's to what made us what we are:

Dane- Doubting the validity of climbers accomplishments at The Coulee previous to your experiences seems rather arrogant and short sighted. I climb with a prominent Leavenworth climber who rode his bike from Portland to Frenchman's in the late 70's. He spent weeks dropping loads of acid and climbed ground up (albeit probably the easier stuff) many of the cracks on Sunshine now named and "claimed" by far more recent visitors. There is no reason to doubt the validity of his claims as I'm sure there is no reason to doubt the claims of many other early visitors. Just my thoughts... -I agree rating practice climbs is sometimes rather silly but since it is the norm, excluding holds or stemming possibilities while coming up with a consensus is absolutely ridiculous.

Western Fastners in Fremont sells both 5-piece Rawls (3/8"and1/2" in various lengths) and a slection of wedge anchors. Unlike Tacoma Screw, they have them (5-piece) in stock. They are cheaper than any climbing shop. Tip: Try to converse with the employees as little as possible, they are arrogant pricks, who know little to nothing about the needs of rock climbers. *mattp has a good point about powder coated hangers. Get the Metolius hangers, the smaller size is less visible than the gigantic Fixe thingies. Ditto on the chain anchors versus webbing; it looks like shit.

Must say, the few DRI shows I attended back in Cleveland hold some pretty fond memories for me, dat was some intense shiite! Some other highlights: 7-Seconds, Circle Jerks, Cro Mags, Pink Holes, The Cramps, Butthole Surfers, Civilian Terrorists, T.S.O.L., etc. For me and my friends it was all about breaking the stereo type of how an upper middle class suburbanite adolescent was "supposed" to look and act in the late 70's-early 80's and far less about drugs (we were straight edge at the time) abuse and all around hatred. Damn I miss some of those times!

Where is "Bob's Boulder"? Do you mean perhaps Bruce's Boulder? or B.O.B. wall? And yes, the "aspirants" were everywhere!

What kinda hanger goes on a 3/4" bolt?

Devil's Tower

Edward's Mesa

RuMR, Your point is valid, but nowhere in Pope's post can I come up with what you stated.

Somewhere beneath your personal insults you may have a point, but it sure is difficult to distinguish.

And just whose ethical considerations should we all read about? VK's? Mine? Yours? They would all be different and just give "extremists" something else to bitch about. Why should he set himself up for that?

snowmobiles rock.

They were clearly marked "lbs". Wish someone could hook me up with those cheap ones.

Not tryin to kick a dead horse in the jaw, but... Some facts for those that may be confused: Standard zinc plated quick links at Lowe's (Home Depot was slightly more$): 3/16"- 660 lbs working load limit; $1.82 1/4"-880 lbs working load limit; $1.96 5/16"-1765 lbs working load limit; $2.39 7/16"-2450 lbs working load limit; $2.67 Still would love to know where you guys find $.75-$.85 5/16"or bigger quick links!?

I was more curious about cheap quick links for chain anchors, I have never left one on webbing. Like I said the cheapest I had seen were around $2 for a 5/16". Home Depot is around $3, Lowe's is $2.19, and Freddy's are $1.99. Dylan, why does it matter where they were made? CBS, 3/16"?

Funny, I actually thought that the route you're refering to, Nubbin Grubbin 11b, is fairly spot on for the grade, it actually has holds.

slabs have three grades: 5.8+ challenging but doable by most experienced leaders 5.10+ the tiniest of holds or steep mainly blank dubious friction 5.11b someone accidentally freed it once; the temp has to be perfect, low humidity, steep, absolutely blank, and only the best of leaders even have a chance. Anything harder: see 11b

Freddie, you must be quite a bit taller than I remember

Where do you find quick links for $.85? What diameter are they? The cheapest I can find are around $2 for 5/16". Anything smaller I find frightening. I will sometimes use a single link of 3/8" chain, they are bomber.

The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered"

The south side of The Thumb up by Clem's Holler. Haven't tried it but it sure looks worthy. Starts as hands and turns into a nasty wide flare. From my understanding you'll need your "bag of tricks" for pro. *If you're up there, it's worth the quick hike over to Arselips and Elbows for 25' of 10" chimney pleasure. Nurse and Doctor Rock also have a few 5.10ish wide suckers that would be worth the approach. I'm pretty sure all have anchors. I recall "enjoying" them. Another I haven't done but is reportedly a fine "testpiece" is Big Bad Wolf at Grandma's House directly across from Castle Rock. It's been scrubbed and has anchors. ...and of course all the obvious ones. Sounds like a fun day. * Just thought of another I haven't tried but... Unnamed "cavern" left of Mastadon Roof. Perhaps a bit short.