slaphappy

Yes, up to a #3 Camalot.

Hmmm, seems like it was more like 8 pitches with some easy simuling at mid-height and top. The 5.9 was short and soft, more like 5.7+. The route was fun but not classic. Alan Kearney's route description is spot-on.

On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior. A few others- Mt Triumph, NE ridge Forbidden, any route Colchuck, NE Butt

Not that I think Crack of Doom is 10b, but when VK asked for info for the new guide did you step up and offer any useful advice/beta/corrections? or did you offer your predictable selection of snide remarks? Thanks.

terrified.

Head w/supplies toward any large hunk of stone along the Tumwater or Icicle, find "easy" looking way up, tie in and go. Expect dirt, ticks, loose blocks, and general funk. An occasional stellar pitch and the memories make it well worth the effort.

I'm not Ben but... Climb to the ridge above SCW. From the ridge we made two short rappels to the West (could be slightly more or less depending on where you gain the ridge; there's plenty of trees) Follow the base of the ridgeline past The Cornerstone (a fine 5.8+ pitch on the N side, see new guide pg 63) Continue down the rib directly west of Snow Creek, this is the same rib the trail to The Gates comes up. 15-20 minutes downhill from The Cornerstone is the top of the Pearly Gates, find anchors and rap or continue down past The Gates to the East. This is a FAST way to get off the ridge of SCW, much faster than following the base of SCW to The Gates.

"...will be back there later on to get up Burgundy Spire. The rock is pretty clean." The rock may look "clean" but large portions are completely detached from the spire, tread lightly.

"This pitch really 5.9?" No, it's 5.8.

Poison Balance was rated 11d by the 1st. Recent atempts claim it to be a bit harder. You'll find a few other "misprints" of similar nature. How hard do you think it is?

2nd Ascent and Stone-me Gardens have copies.

Yeah, I did it all...

Missionary versus doggystyle.

Nalgene- printed in blue .

carwash

lummox = Denise Harmon

Hey, first time I did OS 10 yrs ago, I carried a pack AND bivied in the descent gully. It ruled!

The route is 12 100' pitches and goes at 11b, it's called Restless Natives. The 11b crux is on the last pitch and can easily be yarded through on 2 closely spaced bolts, making the route 10+ A0. It is a fun outing although I doubt it will ever have a waiting line. Wear your helmet particularly if there is a party ahead of you. The Promised Land, a few hundred yards to the right of Restless Natives, is also a decent 10+ 2 (3?) pitch route. (I think Bryan bolted an approach pitch that eliminates the low 5th class scramble.) I climbed it before it was retroed and it was mildly frightening, but I'm pretty sure Bryan has "sport bolted" it since. Have fun in Mazama! plenty!

Still agreeing...

Although I may at times share certain characteristics to a dirtbag, I am more of a dirtball. I have always considered a dirtbag to be another name for a hackysack. on!

Szyjlnvbknstyurbski- I utilize a number of locals oh-so-often, but they do have families and I am a dirtball.

Truest thing you ever said. Retro and slap agreeing WHOA!! I like it I'm still climbing granite at my double secret crag in icicle canyon and you two havn't found me yet Don't get your panties all moist there, dickhead, you won't catch us agreeing on much, rest assured. and what makes you think I haven't already been to/know about your "double secret" crag? Suzy-blahblahpolishsound- For the most part I agree that the Icicle doesn't need more buildings. However, it would be nice to have a cheaper climber/boater/mt.biker venue that offered primitive camp sites and a small bunkhouse with showers, that was privately owned and run. The property doesn't lend itself to any huge structures, if it did, it would have been snatched up long ago. You are right, there are seemingly endless ideal spots that can be camped at for free (I have utilized many), but do you really think that is such a great idea? How many spots like the recently improved one at Mad Meadows (four huge benches, LARGE fire pit, stacks of firewood, tarps) do you think it will take before we aren't allowed to camp for free at all? It wasn't that long ago that it was "ok" to camp anywhere you wanted to up the Icicle. I know your from there and I understand your desire for no more new buildings but not all of us can live there and make ends meet so we have to rely on different means. The current established camping sucks.