slaphappy

Nooooo! The horror...

The bryophytes have staged a revolt...

My post-climbing beverage of choice is whatever is left from my pre-climbing beverages and my mid-climbing beverages.

no offense pms, but crackbolter, you know how I feel about that...

The Reverso SUCKS and in my opinion is dangerous. I used one heavily for about 9 months and had razor sharp edges worn on both sides. I tried another, same bullshit. I also found that it locks up when there is any wear on the HMS carabiner connecting it to your harness. I use an HB Sheriff as my main device with an ATC backup (free at the base of Total Soul ) The HB works the same as an ATC but has a solid retention loop instead of a cable that gets sucked into the device. If your a Reverso user, I would inspect it often and replace it as soon as it turns into a knife!

Ben's suggestions are good but here's a few more... a copy of the new guide will help you as well. *Duty Dome/ Off Duty area- half dozen or so bolted pitches in the 5.8+/ 5.10- range all of high quality. Must do's- Straight Street 5.9+ (pitch 1, 2nd needs a few pieces), Aquamarine 5.9+(requires a few pieces). Also close proximity to Fish Wall, Jazzy Document, Snaakes!, and Yard Art (some require a small rack) * Clem's Holler- 10-12 bolted pitches ranging from 5.7-5.11. Must do's- Gun Rack 5.9 roof, Nettlesome 5.9+, Playin Possum 5.10- (pitch 3 is best), Perils of Pauline 5.11, Poultry in Motion 5.10. From Clem's take trail left (west) to Retardant- Must do's- Red Tide 5.10-, Seven Sea's 5.7 (require's a few pieces), Continue up trail to Special Spot- Must do's- The Javelin 5.10- classic, Opening Ceremonies 5.9 From Clem's take the trail to the right (East) Nut House- Must do's- State of Dillusion 5.10- (requires small rack), Pistachio Pillar 5.10+ (not in guide), Chalk Treatment 5.10- (requires small rack), Committed 5.11+ (all gear but shares anchors with Chalk Treatment so it's a good TR may require a directional) continue up gully/trail to Puzzle Palace- Must do's- Perplexus 5.10, Cryptogram 5.9+. *4th of July Rock- 5.9-5.11 Must do's- Beer and Loafing 5.10- (small rack), Facelift 5.10-, One of the finest "sport" routes in Leavenworth, Just the Facts w/ Diving Diamondbacks finish- 5.11- *Pearly Gates-right side- Must do's-Veins of Glory 5.10-, Milky Way 5.9+, The Scene is Clean 5.8, The Dog Ate My Topo 5.7. Bring a rack and do Celestial Groove 5.9 One of the finest Leavenworth cracks! If you only have quickdraws Clem's Holler is your best bet. Hope this helps, good luck and have fun!

What a bunch of pawns.

Precious...

Perhaps not, but I only have 300 posts...

Prolly, that is far more "Richard Simmons".

I propose a DWAYNER FREE FORUM where not only is Dwayner not allowed to post but the mere mention of him gets the post deleted. Although he says we can easily ignore his posts, the redundant images he frequently uses are impossible to miss. *While we're at it, why don't we ban Dru, Trask and a few other worthless sprayers as well!

uhhh, thanks there Richard...

...

mattp- would you please stop editing your post!

...and what mattp said! (except this blanket statement "Allowing sport climbing is what leads to bolted cracks". Frickin edit button...)

Bronco- I used Davis/Holland as an example because although there are bolted anchors at all the belays, the first two are not used to rappel the route and there is sufficient gear for natural anchors. Although I don't know this for fact, I highly doubt that the stations were put in during the first ascent. I also think you would be hard pressed to find a single climber that wants to add protection bolts to the route. I still don't see how leaving a bolted station is "as if the locals are giving permission to bolt the entire crack". Where's the "common sense" in that assumption? However I do agree that not all belay stations need to be bolted. For example, Library Ledge received fixed anchors a number of years back. Someone promptly removed them and did a fantastic job of restoring the holes. I fully support their decision to do so. I never said I agreed with the removal of this set of anchors or not. A lot of things need to be considered, the history of the area, location, and the history of the FA just to name a few, and I have no knowledge of the area or climb. You have a fine day as well! Thinker-There are endless examples such as yours, some could be pulled without dramaticly affecting the route. I don't feel your example is one of those but what about the old 1/4" belay on Orbit? (I am by no means suggesting the removal of them)

They were anchors, that's quite a stretch to make that connection. The anchor bolts on Davis/Holland do not make anyone want to bolt the cracks. Where do you people come up with some of this crap?

True, true , they are well worth the hike. The Javelin does rock! I'll let VK know your positive feedback. question is: Awhile back you said somethin about a "secret" crag you had been visiting behind a friends property. Is it Nurse Rock perhaps? You also said somethin about a hard crack route that blanked out in the middle that might need a bolt, is it in the Icicle? Is it that route at Nurse? If so, has it been led?

Hey Dickhead, what's up with not accepting PM's? I gots a question for ya. and true enough on some of the lame authors...

We don't. It's a turf war, Bruce is steppin on Burdo's toes.

Both, mostly no $. true true The skulls !

Last year while campin on the Coleman a ranger approached me with one of those surveys. Dude had pencils and everything. Sounds like the same kinda questions although they wanted to know mostly about Mt. Baker. On a side note; while parked at the Stuart Lake trailhead this past Saturday, I left my North west Forest Pass in another vehicle, so I put my wallet card on my dashboard. It clearly staes that it expires in Aug and has the issue # on it. I got a $50 ticket anyhow, "the Tool" said it wasn't a valid pass. This shit is gettin outta hand. Don't we pay these individual's salaries?

I'll drive...

Now Pete, you remember what happened last time you and Dwayner started this kind of banter... some people will never quite get it.