slaphappy

I do.

where? I'll be floatin around somewhere hopefully with the E Butt slut himself (damn charity case) but debauchery is my middle name and other than possibly you I doubt anyone in the fam would find our antics humorous. So where you gonna be?

Bah, knock your driver in the head and force em to drive to Leavenworth. Do everyone with you the favor...

Off Thanks for helpin with the photo. *The Kreg jig is a pretty handy tool once you learn how to set it up proficiently.

I agree with Merv twice in one day and perhaps three times in one week( he's right I am a "clown") The world as I know it will never be the same...

...at least 2 years. I have no intention of playing by the rules...

Ok, here it is... I really don't know how to post images so they show up. services rendered, rear end tendered.

that's right, a clown

I'm a clown.

Have you ever successfully removed and reinstalled a 5-piece bolt? I have tried on more than one occasion, I was semi succesful once (had to add a washer to tighten it completely) and that was only a day or two after placing it (a spinner) I have seen it posted on here before that they are replaceable, I call bullshit. After any significant amount of time (one winter) it is impossible to retrieve the wedge stuck in the hole. You can try wire or whatever but the oxidation will prevent success. Trying to rethread the bolt into the imbedded wedge may work but I doubt it will tighten sufficiently without some funk. The replaceable part is a myth from those who haven't tried it. Make friends with some of the local shop employees/owners, I'm sure they will sell you quatities of hangers at a discounted rate. Leavenworth Mountain Sports carries Madrock hangers.

Alpinfox I would seriously discourage the use of those Fixe anchor things. (none of those at the Gates ) (I know Mattp would disagree) Once they wear to the point of danger there is no good way to replace the worn parts. Adding new ones creates more holes and a mess in my opinion. I prefer the setup like the ones used at the Pearly Gates. 2 hangers, 2 bolts (somewhat equalized) a 5 or 7 link 3/8" chain connected to the hangers with a minimum of 5/16" quick links. (an odd number of links assures the bottom link is in the correct orientation) THE BEEFIER THE BETTER! All wearable parts are easily replaceable without a drill. I buy setups at Lowe's for the most part, they seem to be the cheapest. 3/8" zinc plated chain runs $2.98 a foot, 5/16" quicklinks run $2.19 and 7/16" (better!) run $2.69, I get hangers for about $1.60 depending on the brand. I'm currently a huge fan of the new Madrock hangers strong, lightweight, super small profile and a dull finish so they don't gleem from far away, and you can rap directly through the hangers. I buy bolts from Western Fastners 3/8" x 2 1/4" run $1.30ish each if you buy a box of 50. The 3" ones are a bit more, wedge anchors are about $.25 in boxes of 50 or more.

"and a warm thanks slapphappy for his positive feedback and unending support...." * oh that's good! I believe yesterday I congratulated them on a fine climb, why did that get pulled????? Not positive enough? What I don't understand is what the big mystery is about a climb that has been repeated numerous times, for years. Why the need for self promotion and "secret" beta. Last I noticed it was in the Nelson guide. Whatever, I could care less... Nice job NOLSE and partner! Better?

ummmmm nope.

Thanks Alpinfox, I'm well aware of how much a chain setup costs and you're wrong, it's far closer to $10 than your estimated $20, even if you include the hangers/bolts. I do agree that your draw and prethreaded chain dealio is a better option. I still think you (and others ) make way to big a deal about TRing through chains. It's my problem if my rope gets dirty from doing it. We're not talking about 5 gallon buckets at Smith that receives 20 ascents an hour every day of the year, we're talking about the Pearly Gates, far less traffic. As I stated, if the chains up there are wearing out I'll gladly replace them. Drederek- I agree Playground Point is nearly the ideal spot to take people who have not climbed. Hard to imagine someone not enjoying that as their first experience. However it does lack cracks which makes the Gates a good early destination as well.

get a guide, but... Castle rock: Crack of doom 10a Brass Balls 10b MF Overhang 10c Pearly Gates: Celestial Groove 5.9+ Pearly Gates 10b Heaven's Sake 10b Leap of Faith 10d Snow Creek: Hyperspace 10d Iconoclast 10c Outer Space 5.9 Rat Dome: Silver Surfer 5.10 Vegtables of Labor 10c Barn Rat 10+ Careno Crag: BK route 10b Regular Route10b Condo Corner 10b exotic dancer 10a A swingin' afair 10b There are other 5.10 gear routes that are classics but the crags I have listed have the highest concentration without lots of walking/driving/walking crap. Camping is available all over the Icicle canyon, unfortunately it'll cost you. It'll be hot bring sunscreen, and the Pearly Gates is probably your best bet if it's really hot, Careno probably the worst. Have fun! * Scholar with a Dollar is on lower 8-mile Buttress not upper. Tighten up, Tim!

Always said: "I'm just a clown in a dude suit..." but keep your crap outta my serious climbing type thread! this is the rockclimbing forum, no spray!

beer? tully's is coffee, idiot

I don't take/post photos. Besides, you're one of maybe 4 people who might know what they are anyhow ...if I did have any, which I prolly don't, well, um, maybe... Top-o-Lib Bell. Nice pic, who's the hottie?

You're kidding, right? The frickin humor!

Climbing can be, like, SO annoying and inconvenient! While you're at it, how about a picnic table and a BBQ pit? Darn nature! Take a hike, clown.

What I don't understand is why in a crag setting where pitches are set at 100' or less, why so many people feel the need to belay at the top. Why not rap down clean the pitch and TR the newbie through the chains? I know, I know, your not supposed to TR through the chains, screw that, they don't wear that fast and they are cheap. I'll gladly replace any chain at PG that wears to the point of danger, let me know if one gets bad. It is far easier, not to mention more comfortable, to belay on the ground. Plus communication is a non issue. Always seems silly to me. I do feel PG is a fine place to take beginers. Safe and plentiful anchors, high quality moderates and a wide variety of styles make it ideal. *There are over 30 pitches at the Gates, I doubt some of the hard 10's or 11's had traffic. Put up a TR and learn how climb harder.

right on. always thought that shit looked good but after watching the slabs get repeatedly bombarded by crap from above, I've chosen to stay clear. nice work.

specialed is that the Boving Route?

A #2 Camalot fits nicely in the starting hand crack and still aloows you to jam through. Nice work, that's my favorite crack route up there. Golden Delicious is another fun 8+ deal that rarely has traffic. * oh, and the large burnt tree that used to be in front of Dribble is now a large stump, it blew down this past winter.