slaphappy

Thanks Alpinfox, I'm well aware of how much a chain setup costs and you're wrong, it's far closer to $10 than your estimated $20, even if you include the hangers/bolts. I do agree that your draw and prethreaded chain dealio is a better option. I still think you (and others ) make way to big a deal about TRing through chains. It's my problem if my rope gets dirty from doing it. We're not talking about 5 gallon buckets at Smith that receives 20 ascents an hour every day of the year, we're talking about the Pearly Gates, far less traffic. As I stated, if the chains up there are wearing out I'll gladly replace them. Drederek- I agree Playground Point is nearly the ideal spot to take people who have not climbed. Hard to imagine someone not enjoying that as their first experience. However it does lack cracks which makes the Gates a good early destination as well.

get a guide, but... Castle rock: Crack of doom 10a Brass Balls 10b MF Overhang 10c Pearly Gates: Celestial Groove 5.9+ Pearly Gates 10b Heaven's Sake 10b Leap of Faith 10d Snow Creek: Hyperspace 10d Iconoclast 10c Outer Space 5.9 Rat Dome: Silver Surfer 5.10 Vegtables of Labor 10c Barn Rat 10+ Careno Crag: BK route 10b Regular Route10b Condo Corner 10b exotic dancer 10a A swingin' afair 10b There are other 5.10 gear routes that are classics but the crags I have listed have the highest concentration without lots of walking/driving/walking crap. Camping is available all over the Icicle canyon, unfortunately it'll cost you. It'll be hot bring sunscreen, and the Pearly Gates is probably your best bet if it's really hot, Careno probably the worst. Have fun! * Scholar with a Dollar is on lower 8-mile Buttress not upper. Tighten up, Tim!

Always said: "I'm just a clown in a dude suit..." but keep your crap outta my serious climbing type thread! this is the rockclimbing forum, no spray!

beer? tully's is coffee, idiot

I don't take/post photos. Besides, you're one of maybe 4 people who might know what they are anyhow ...if I did have any, which I prolly don't, well, um, maybe... Top-o-Lib Bell. Nice pic, who's the hottie?

You're kidding, right? The frickin humor!

Climbing can be, like, SO annoying and inconvenient! While you're at it, how about a picnic table and a BBQ pit? Darn nature! Take a hike, clown.

What I don't understand is why in a crag setting where pitches are set at 100' or less, why so many people feel the need to belay at the top. Why not rap down clean the pitch and TR the newbie through the chains? I know, I know, your not supposed to TR through the chains, screw that, they don't wear that fast and they are cheap. I'll gladly replace any chain at PG that wears to the point of danger, let me know if one gets bad. It is far easier, not to mention more comfortable, to belay on the ground. Plus communication is a non issue. Always seems silly to me. I do feel PG is a fine place to take beginers. Safe and plentiful anchors, high quality moderates and a wide variety of styles make it ideal. *There are over 30 pitches at the Gates, I doubt some of the hard 10's or 11's had traffic. Put up a TR and learn how climb harder.

right on. always thought that shit looked good but after watching the slabs get repeatedly bombarded by crap from above, I've chosen to stay clear. nice work.

specialed is that the Boving Route?

A #2 Camalot fits nicely in the starting hand crack and still aloows you to jam through. Nice work, that's my favorite crack route up there. Golden Delicious is another fun 8+ deal that rarely has traffic. * oh, and the large burnt tree that used to be in front of Dribble is now a large stump, it blew down this past winter.

yohoo, Tim...

I hope I'm one of the two people, if not, chalk up a third... never met you, don't like you. although, i don't like anyone.

Dude, he's tryin to get his buddy's draws back.

Thanx Szyjakowski, you're damn straight on that.

I don't think Lovin Arms is 5.17Z, 5.11 is far different...

moderator's heavy hand of the **DELETE** button. Whatever.

I thought my question/comment was legitimate, perhaps not worded the most appropriately but legitimate.

Directly across? Rat Dome? Can't really think of a continuous chimney/off width there. Slightly west is Nurse Rock which does have a couple of good offwidths and an "entertaining" 5.7d chimney complete with portable holds, bird dung, and shrubs. Across from Castle Rock is Big Bad Wolf 10b, anyone do it yet? Looks really good. How about The Thumb 5.11 up by Clem's? I know of quite a few wide ones up high in the canyons but the hike vs. climb ratio gets pretty distorted.

Does anyone really think that a short route that is almost completely moderate, but yet has one blank section with a manufactured hold, is gonna be the "testpiece" of future super climbers? There is far more grandiose rock for these future super men/women than is currently being utilized. I'm not a fan of chipping but I do think some of you are making a far bigger deal out of it than it warrants. Although I can't think of an example I can actually see how the end result could be better than if it was left as 30' of 5.10 to one move of 5.17Z to 40' of 5.10.

Um, nice work gents, but Layton, do you ever climb anything "new" that isn't 10b R?

Clue! I was thinking a chat in person...since I was at Dishman and later at dinner in Spokane and most of the folks involved knew I was there Oh yeh, that's clear...tool!

***NEWSFLASH*** Most climbers don't read this crap!

check Second Ascent in Ballard they usually have a few in stock for a good price

just cause people park there doesn't mean it's ok. The locals who own land in the area (it is privately owned) have asked that climbers not park down there... Read your guide book! it would be a shame if we lost access because of a lazy few.