slaphappy

The thing on Secret Dome is...I don't know....ten years old or so. I don't really think I ruined the place, given all of the completely bolt-dependent routes already on the dome. My variation used only two bolts, and I put the bolts in on the lead which, in my way of thinking, makes them the only legitimate bolts on the dome. It is ran-out and 5.11, which adds something to the monotone of 5.10 slab climbing one finds there. I'm happy to help you chop it if you're disgusted by it, and I hope you'll help me chop a few bolts while you're at it. I didn't bolt any cracks by Carnival Crack. I put up (with Scotty Hopkins, not Dave Bale) a crack route which uses one bolt for pro, right at the face climbing crux. This move is by far the hardest on the route. Without the bolt, the fall would probably be fatal. If you didn't recognize this, you probably haven't climbed the route. I could have easily climbed through. The 5.9+ grade is something I can handle with or without a bolt, but I thought that it would be responsible to have a solid bolt on that move. Please don't spread the rumor that I put up a sport climb in Leavenworth, or that I bolted next to a crack. It just isn't true. And MattP, when I make a mistake, I'll be the first to admit it; I don't need your help. The climb by Carnival Crack completely complies with what I have so many times outlined to be the reasonable and responsible application of bolts. Those of you who think it is ridiculous to say "every bolt is a crime" are absolutely correct, and I have never said that. I have pointed out that discrete bolting can add to the climbing experience without seriously compromising the aesthetics of a cliff. THE PROBLEM IS, TOO MANY CLIMBERS JUST DON'T HAVE A SENSE OF WHAT DISCRETE BOLTING IS ALL ABOUT. Pope, I commend your effort at Secret Dome. It must have been difficult to even hang on hooks and place the bolts on lead. Although judging from your past and present opinions, wouldn't it have been better left as a top rope? It is a variation and a bit of a squeeze job. The bolt on Carnival is necessary and accurately placed. Using this as an example, can you see how a rappel placed bolt with an electric drill can be viewed as constructive? Kudos to a fairly civil debate

I've been up Rat Creek in the winter... you don't want to do it unless it's the absolute shortest way to your objective. Now coming back down it on the other hand....

Thin seam that runs through the roof? If so, nice work.

This is what concerns me... According to the UW "experts", there will be thirty semi and trailer loads a day for aprox. 5 years running out the Icicle road. I doubt it will affect access to most of the crags, except perhaps some of the road side parking, but man is it gonna add some noise and eye pollution, not to mention the annoyance of increased traffic. Is it gonna have it's own power source or will the PUD run new lines down the road? What about the water coming out of the tunnel? Will it be treated and pumped into the creek? What is the scope of road "improvements"? Most importantly (not really), will we still be able to access The Funnel since they plan on entering Cashmere from the property directly below it? I say send it to North Dakota they want the damn thing anyway and Mt. Rushmore is already an eyesore, the tunnel will fit right in.

the author's name is spelled Viktor ...

Ok, I was perhaps mis-informed about the shear strengths or not thoroughly informed, but still disagree about the removal of the wedge of a 5-piece. I have tried a similar method and was not successful. They were there for about 7 years. I have removed wedge anchors with minimal to no scarring.

lummox- what is the big deal with wedge anchors? In the past what you have stated is not accurate about the removal of each style. The tip of a 5-piece stays in the hole and sucks to drill through. Wedge are not hard to remove and the hole can then be reused or oversized and reused. 5-piece do have a better pull out strength, particularly in shitty stone, but the shear is nearly the same on a wedge and a 5-piece. I believe it is closer to 5000lbs than 7000. Are you stating facts or spew?

In case you forgot what we were pokin fun of, here: "Please chestbeat here.. This endless summer season seems finite now. Please fess up here wit the list of your biggest routes that you did this season. If this co-op master-b gets to page 2 or 3, I will post the list of my best year of climbing that I have ever had.(Bait)( Hook?)(Troll...)" This doesn't resemble a trip report. -slap

I have 350 posts in 2.5 years, Matt. It's not like I make a habbit of rippin on folks, for the most part I agree with you. Perhaps I'm a bit of a hypocrite cause I won't post anything I have done for some of the same reasons, but golly, sometimes the door is just left too wide open. -slap

Come on matt, give us a break already. If Wayne posted his list of accomplishments/top climbs and was sincere about listening to others, I for one wouldn't have taken the cheap shots. The whole "tell me yours and I might tell you mine" thing is lame. As I said, it started as spray and continued as such. By the way, where's your constructive contribution? Trip reports? -slap

Dude, it wasn't your topic it was the manner in which you stated it... we all have respect for your accomplishments, as well as a dearness to our own...

damn it! i was yer girl right up to the part about gunning up the hard shit. Oh, I'll still step up to the plate...

Oh contrare, looks can be deceiving. Snowboards don't bump worth shit. And they slideslip too easily. It aint the board, young one, it's the rider...

I'm usually wasted and out of supplies by the time I start rappeling... ahhh which brings up a fine point... I'm still searching for that perfect partner who will bring/give me some of their "stash", gun up the hard shit, go EXACTLY where I want to go, climb only what I want to climb, and preferably have a fine female figure. Any takers?

The thread was started as spray and should be promptly moved there.

Oh contrare, looks can be deceiving.

BOOOOO! Casper, that you?

...I should evolve and trade em in for a single stick.

Oh there will be plenty of that! ...ahhh, as the "gear quiver" becomes ever more complete...

gunt? no, it's a pussy gut.

doh! great now my reputation and EGO are ruined..... and to stomp on your buzz ever further, I have smoked with Sharma, yup, tis true (Dean Potter, I mean really he can't even climb 5.15...)

don't forget to make/sell a shirt...

Gee, reward us oh "great one"... Please PM me your entire climbing resume. No, No, you must tell me yours and if it happens to be worthy I will then bless you with my superior one...

during my brief visit... Oh, and it was brief. I had to see the head behind the mouth and fingers of 12,000 posts...The and the thick b.s. was good though...

after eavesdropping on the "stroke" session mattp and Rat had goin on behind you, Dru, you may have missed somethin "special"