slaphappy

Just wanna take a moment to say to Pope who will inevitably show up soon. Pope!

I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. I'll kick in $30* if he can get up it even hanging on every bolt since it's so easy (uh, no stick clips) and match the $100 if he redpoints it. * all bets are off if I see him in lycra.

...or how about the "bold" 100' trad lead where the leader places 15 pieces of pro versus the "chicken bolted" 100' route with 6 or 7 bolts...

...and cheers to you, Hakioawa! Your original post and auto sig paint enough of a picture for me...

I agree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to motivation. Although, why someone is motivated to clip bolts I'll never understand. I disagree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to attitude. Although, why someone believes that what they do is the only way to do it, I'll never understand.

Exactly. Srategicly place yourself with a half dozen or so 24 oz "king cans" of varying lousy quality, proudly display them as you shotgun a few while burning a rather large spleef. If they aren't gone yet, tie into your ratiest rope and follow up so close they're nearly stepping on you, shouting pointless beta the whole time. They'll get annoyed enough to leave. Of course it would be easier if Hakioawa wasn't so pompous and realized that it's a popular area that he has no more right to than the next guy. If you don't like the "atmosphere", move on.

No way, not a bit over B1+, It has a trail. The avalanche path sucks after the snow melts out, stay just right of center, seemed to offer the least resistance. Good stuff! shit grows you know. go in there now, and let me know if you can find a BW1 route on a "trail" through the alder. there were remnants of this trail but that was it. If you do find it, get a GPS log and bring it back for me. You are correct, shit does grow. I was there last August (met Klenke on the glacier ) and I doubt it grew that much. I crossed the creek midway through the alder and continued on the trail (yes, there was a decent trail) to the base of the avy path. I do lots of shwackin and I would not consider that any harder than BW1+ (on a scale of 1-5; never heard of an 8), as I stated, it was too easy to remain on the trail. GPS? wouldn't know how to turn one on. Now the black flies on the other hand...

No way, not a bit over B1+, It has a trail. The avalanche path sucks after the snow melts out, stay just right of center, seemed to offer the least resistance. Good stuff!

The whining is only slightly better than his "I I I", "me me me" trip reports.

There is and always will be only one "Guzzler".

Yes, up to a #3 Camalot.

Hmmm, seems like it was more like 8 pitches with some easy simuling at mid-height and top. The 5.9 was short and soft, more like 5.7+. The route was fun but not classic. Alan Kearney's route description is spot-on.

On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior. A few others- Mt Triumph, NE ridge Forbidden, any route Colchuck, NE Butt

Not that I think Crack of Doom is 10b, but when VK asked for info for the new guide did you step up and offer any useful advice/beta/corrections? or did you offer your predictable selection of snide remarks? Thanks.

terrified.

Head w/supplies toward any large hunk of stone along the Tumwater or Icicle, find "easy" looking way up, tie in and go. Expect dirt, ticks, loose blocks, and general funk. An occasional stellar pitch and the memories make it well worth the effort.

I'm not Ben but... Climb to the ridge above SCW. From the ridge we made two short rappels to the West (could be slightly more or less depending on where you gain the ridge; there's plenty of trees) Follow the base of the ridgeline past The Cornerstone (a fine 5.8+ pitch on the N side, see new guide pg 63) Continue down the rib directly west of Snow Creek, this is the same rib the trail to The Gates comes up. 15-20 minutes downhill from The Cornerstone is the top of the Pearly Gates, find anchors and rap or continue down past The Gates to the East. This is a FAST way to get off the ridge of SCW, much faster than following the base of SCW to The Gates.

"...will be back there later on to get up Burgundy Spire. The rock is pretty clean." The rock may look "clean" but large portions are completely detached from the spire, tread lightly.

"This pitch really 5.9?" No, it's 5.8.

Poison Balance was rated 11d by the 1st. Recent atempts claim it to be a bit harder. You'll find a few other "misprints" of similar nature. How hard do you think it is?

2nd Ascent and Stone-me Gardens have copies.

Yeah, I did it all...