slaphappy

I propose a DWAYNER FREE FORUM where not only is Dwayner not allowed to post but the mere mention of him gets the post deleted. Although he says we can easily ignore his posts, the redundant images he frequently uses are impossible to miss. *While we're at it, why don't we ban Dru, Trask and a few other worthless sprayers as well!

uhhh, thanks there Richard...

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mattp- would you please stop editing your post!

...and what mattp said! (except this blanket statement "Allowing sport climbing is what leads to bolted cracks". Frickin edit button...)

Bronco- I used Davis/Holland as an example because although there are bolted anchors at all the belays, the first two are not used to rappel the route and there is sufficient gear for natural anchors. Although I don't know this for fact, I highly doubt that the stations were put in during the first ascent. I also think you would be hard pressed to find a single climber that wants to add protection bolts to the route. I still don't see how leaving a bolted station is "as if the locals are giving permission to bolt the entire crack". Where's the "common sense" in that assumption? However I do agree that not all belay stations need to be bolted. For example, Library Ledge received fixed anchors a number of years back. Someone promptly removed them and did a fantastic job of restoring the holes. I fully support their decision to do so. I never said I agreed with the removal of this set of anchors or not. A lot of things need to be considered, the history of the area, location, and the history of the FA just to name a few, and I have no knowledge of the area or climb. You have a fine day as well! Thinker-There are endless examples such as yours, some could be pulled without dramaticly affecting the route. I don't feel your example is one of those but what about the old 1/4" belay on Orbit? (I am by no means suggesting the removal of them)

They were anchors, that's quite a stretch to make that connection. The anchor bolts on Davis/Holland do not make anyone want to bolt the cracks. Where do you people come up with some of this crap?

True, true , they are well worth the hike. The Javelin does rock! I'll let VK know your positive feedback. question is: Awhile back you said somethin about a "secret" crag you had been visiting behind a friends property. Is it Nurse Rock perhaps? You also said somethin about a hard crack route that blanked out in the middle that might need a bolt, is it in the Icicle? Is it that route at Nurse? If so, has it been led?

Hey Dickhead, what's up with not accepting PM's? I gots a question for ya. and true enough on some of the lame authors...

We don't. It's a turf war, Bruce is steppin on Burdo's toes.

Both, mostly no $. true true The skulls !

Last year while campin on the Coleman a ranger approached me with one of those surveys. Dude had pencils and everything. Sounds like the same kinda questions although they wanted to know mostly about Mt. Baker. On a side note; while parked at the Stuart Lake trailhead this past Saturday, I left my North west Forest Pass in another vehicle, so I put my wallet card on my dashboard. It clearly staes that it expires in Aug and has the issue # on it. I got a $50 ticket anyhow, "the Tool" said it wasn't a valid pass. This shit is gettin outta hand. Don't we pay these individual's salaries?

I'll drive...

Now Pete, you remember what happened last time you and Dwayner started this kind of banter... some people will never quite get it.

Just wanna take a moment to say to Pope who will inevitably show up soon. Pope!

I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. I'll kick in $30* if he can get up it even hanging on every bolt since it's so easy (uh, no stick clips) and match the $100 if he redpoints it. * all bets are off if I see him in lycra.

...or how about the "bold" 100' trad lead where the leader places 15 pieces of pro versus the "chicken bolted" 100' route with 6 or 7 bolts...

...and cheers to you, Hakioawa! Your original post and auto sig paint enough of a picture for me...

I agree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to motivation. Although, why someone is motivated to clip bolts I'll never understand. I disagree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to attitude. Although, why someone believes that what they do is the only way to do it, I'll never understand.

Exactly. Srategicly place yourself with a half dozen or so 24 oz "king cans" of varying lousy quality, proudly display them as you shotgun a few while burning a rather large spleef. If they aren't gone yet, tie into your ratiest rope and follow up so close they're nearly stepping on you, shouting pointless beta the whole time. They'll get annoyed enough to leave. Of course it would be easier if Hakioawa wasn't so pompous and realized that it's a popular area that he has no more right to than the next guy. If you don't like the "atmosphere", move on.

No way, not a bit over B1+, It has a trail. The avalanche path sucks after the snow melts out, stay just right of center, seemed to offer the least resistance. Good stuff! shit grows you know. go in there now, and let me know if you can find a BW1 route on a "trail" through the alder. there were remnants of this trail but that was it. If you do find it, get a GPS log and bring it back for me. You are correct, shit does grow. I was there last August (met Klenke on the glacier ) and I doubt it grew that much. I crossed the creek midway through the alder and continued on the trail (yes, there was a decent trail) to the base of the avy path. I do lots of shwackin and I would not consider that any harder than BW1+ (on a scale of 1-5; never heard of an 8), as I stated, it was too easy to remain on the trail. GPS? wouldn't know how to turn one on. Now the black flies on the other hand...

No way, not a bit over B1+, It has a trail. The avalanche path sucks after the snow melts out, stay just right of center, seemed to offer the least resistance. Good stuff!

The whining is only slightly better than his "I I I", "me me me" trip reports.

There is and always will be only one "Guzzler".