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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Ask Marko, he knows
  2. umm, yes, It should happen to you too.... I was placing all right and had to grip the tool with elbow bent. Hanging higher, off the bones/leash would have gone a long way on the steep placements. BTW..... Do the make an Android just for the new Cobras??
  3. I have found (yesterday on the Scepter) that it is good to have a leash on my left hand while leading a steep section. Placing screws with a leash on your non-screw-placing hand is easier than hanging on a leashless "grip". I got very pumped placing them.
  4. Not sure, I am on the road. It is behind Mesachie though. Good looking winter fas for sure I am trying to figure Danes pics out
  5. It is a complicated q and a. Depends on what you want to climb and are you leading? I just went l-less and it suits my technical style well. With the lanyards, it is also safer. If your ultimate goal is just go do 3 and 4,s it doesnt matter much but if you want to do mixed or lead hard ice, I think getting used to l-less is the answer.
  6. Still waiting to hear from Blake, Darrin, Rat etc...
  7. I have done both. The issues with them in my opinion is the rime coating this time of year is rather feathery, and difficult to protect/swing stick. The best time is after a pineapple express (which we just did?) or in the spring when it is still cold at nights. They get late sun too which is nice in spring.
  8. You guys are delivering. To keep the stoke flowing..... this may be one of many unclimbed Cascade walls waiting for a FKA!! And yes , it is big and steep!
  9. A discreet considerate-targeted gift bag with nothing but her favorites!
  10. duuuude
  11. wayne

    The Eiger?

    Ha! Hilarious. That was a great find. Makes our game look candy!
  12. Go ahead Joe!
  13. Maybe this should move to Author Request Forum? I am writing a page on first ascents and the allure they can hold. There are many fascinating aspects that beg to be covered from logistics to psychology. If there is some serious opinions or insights on the matter. Please share them here. We all could learn much from it. What are some of the core motivations? What role does fear play, if any? Risk factors, how do you minimize them? Scenario play-outs. What is learned from attempts Competition Ego Adventure Gear geekery I am hoping to stick to mountaineering on this topic, but am looking forward to all discourse (except bolts...) Looks like it could be a fun project..... Just please dont allow this idea to be blogged/copied before It is finished? Thanks, Wayne
  14. Does anyone know how Hyalite survived the recent thaw?
  15. Brad has done it reverse and forwards a bunch. the dude is core solo.
  16. Here it is, finally! The New Waynessite! Thanks again guys for all of your insight and help getting the right fit. I will still post all my tweets on the mighty cc,com, but there will be much more than that on the new site. Feel free to subscribe, or save to favorites (if it is..) Hope you enjoy, Wayne
  17. Good luck, those are keepers.
  18. Talked to Brad today, he did Little Needle Rock a bunch of times (6x ?), and a few more unclimbed/uncharted pinnacles in the area. I do miss the forrest goodies myself.
  19. Nice job there mates! always wanted to get on that one
  20. Great idea Jon, what is the direction the blog is heading? right now the comments are closed. is it going to be interactive?
  21. Wow John and friends. The video and pictures are stellar. Took me there, thanks, soon to make my first climb in Hyalite. Went there before, but avvy was way high. You have me stoked.
  22. Off-meister.. lol We are hoping to hook up in Hyalite after Xmas, Cute play on words too. Thanks, but dont expect big productions on all the climbs :-} What a great (and Quick) ice season we had this year! Cheers to all the many efforts!!
  23. Wait a minute, are you saying the middle falls or the lower or both had not seen a publicly know ascent? Shocking, but there is no real significance who did. It should be a place that sees many ascents .The mixed crag will be a delight!!
  24. Bold and stunning grab! well done gents
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