wayne

nice, is that the N ridge you are on?

Things, I hate: Mosquitos, mice, wind, waiting out weather, and a damp 1 lb sleeping bag. I almost always take a tent.

First: your not gonna keep people from being foolish. Second: Really though, it could have been bombed from the top. ..the word could have gotten out about the conditions (provided an interpreter was available..) Loss of life can be prevented. Sounds like they got a ton of snow I almost fell off a 12 foot crown there after it 'lanched in 88'.

Nice, but what is KER And Woodpecker?

Largest non-volcanic mountain mass on the planet! its stats are insane ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Logan ) . Proud effort on Logan, team.

Tremendously fun looking climbing, Thanks.

Looks fun. Thanks for sharing it.

Nice AAC! Looking forward to it. Can tickets be bought last minute or at the event? Maybe Mazama would make the next great toilet project?

Glad I found your report Tan! Nice to see you had a great trip.

Made my rainy work day that much tougher. Nice going.

I have been waiting for someone to mention that the hut is being occupied often by families. That means screaming kids running around at all hours. Snoring etc. Didnt want that for my vacation. Signed, Grumpy Old Man

pm sent

Now that I revisit this, It was Steve Elder that drilled that bolt after his solo on that (Yellow/blue) route. It must have been the North Skylight that Jim and I topped out on back in the 90s.

Did summit-chaser do a documentary on that route?

What an amazing rescue, Hats off to those involved.

Not a difficult route, just long access, and route finding issues. 1. 1 2: 5 3< 30lbs 4. Axes (access) Creek 5: 5 -7 pieces 6. rope is a non issue, single 50 Luna col- to Luna col in a (long) day. Good luck, its a classic.

Yes, it is pretty fun. The summit cornice however...

At least there are those books, I co-wrote one due out 3 years ago and still waiting. I sent pages of corrections to Fred that probably wont see print either. As long as we are ranting about books, I struggle with the info part of Winter Dance. The cody section in particular needs the map supplement you can get at the Bozeman climbing shop. Ever try to decipher the Burdo series? His latter works have improved though. I do like Inland Rock Climbs though.

I met Dave and his concerned father while trying the N Face of Index in Winter. Dad found our camp and asked if we had seen anyone. Conditions were great so I assured him, and told him we would have a look. Soon afterwards Dave and his partner came down and chatted with us. He later helped my partner get his lost crampon returned to him. Very enthusiastic, interesting and engaging young man, Sorry for your loss, Wayne

Jeez, its alpine rock season already! ?

thanks gotta work all summer again. it was an expanding block, I found that out when I tried a cam hook afterwards, duh. it was on the 1st aid pitch just below the roof and pendulum. top 2 pieces blew, then the bottom 2 werent directionals so they back-zipped.

I dont know, someone may chime in, I hear it was an accident that caused both ankles and a wrist to fracture," hearing second hand info", of course.

Trip: Town Crier, UTW, Index - Date: 5/14/2012 Trip Report: There are many different “sports” within the sport of climbing. May 13th, 2011, I decided to revisited one of my old favorites: Aid climbing. I really used to enjoy its propensity to allow me to be in some ridiculous places. In the late 70s, and early eighties, I dreamed of doing El Cap and many other amazing routes that require such skills. Then came sticky rubber and I was almost exclusivly a free climber after that. Aid climbing gave me a great base for rope management, rescue techniques, and getting-out-of-trouble skills, that I think every climber should have. After recent decades of ignoring, I decided it was time to dust off some old skills. Turned out to be worth doing for a couple of reasons.. Saturday practice for Beau on City Park (c-1), and we tried to sleep to the sound of rescue helicopters pulling a multi-fractured climber off the wall we were off try on Sunday: Upper Town Wall, above the town of Index. Sunday we got up early, as the temps were expected in the mid 80s for the day. We were going for a south-facing route called Town Crier. Beau had the rock shoes, so he took the first free sections. I then kicked into the first of three, c2 pitches. The 6th placement blew out on me taking with it numbers: 5, 2, and 1. At least numbers 3 and 4 held! The 20 foot fall stopped by Beau (The Awesome Belayer/Climber) Carrillo, left me 5 feet above him and a ledge, PHEW! It was nice to know the system works. More on blog. Gear Notes: gear to 3". extra small nuts

Not bad for your first trip in there!

Very nice trip report, thanks for putting that together!