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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Mazeno Ridge is the 6 mile, high altitude ridge connected to the summit of Nanga Parbat . A true monster. 2 teams make the staggering ascent. . Another blog link Summit post "The Mazeno ridge is the longest ridge on any 8000m mountain and includes eight 7000m peaks. Contrary to often incorrect information on the net, all the Mazeno peaks have now been climbed although nobody has managed to traverse the ridge and continue to the summit of Nanga Parbat. The best attempt to date was that by Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson in summer 2004. They managed a full 10km traverse of all the Mazeno peaks to the point where the ridge meets the Schell Route at 6940m. First ascents were made of Peak 7060m, Peak 7120m (Mazeno Peak), Peak 7100m and Peak 7070m. Illness and exhaustion forced them to descend. Previous attempts included that by Doug Scott in 1992 that climbed the first three peaks. Scott also attempted the ridge in 1993 and 1995 but got no higher. Wojciech Kurtyka and Erhard Loretan made an attempt in 1997." -summit post Props to local hardman Steve Swenson for pioneering it years ago.
  2. Looks like a great trip! Thanks for sharing it.
  3. At least it doesnt say "fun!" on one of the pitches.Thanks for adding to the list of must do/try routes.
  4. Wow, great report!. worth the wait.
  5. Smart young man you are. I bailed off that headwall too, and went off to the right to summit. It is a dangerous proposition going straight up.
  6. Congratulations, Pictures?
  7. Oak is much more potent, too, than Ivy, i believe.
  8. Great report Mike! Stoked for you guys. Looks like you hombres got a good one in before the heat got too bad.
  9. Where is the trip report already Ivan/Mike/Tvash????? Edit: good job.
  10. Thanks, I will. pm me your info, Wayne
  11. DAMN!!! I should have done that when I was in there last year! :{
  12. Trip: Elephants Perch - The Fine Line/Sunrise book Date: 7/3/2012 Trip Report: Faced with the possibility of working 6 days/week all summer is not a fun prospect. I wanted to have a trip with sun, fun, and full value routes. After considering several options, I went back to the Sawtooth Range of Central Idaho for an ass-whooping 4th of July 2012. Joining forces with Nic H. on Fine Line was the first enticing prospect. It may be the most amazing rock climb I have ever done. Boasting 10 steep, sustained, and amazing pitches, there is some special movement with every lead. The next day after, Lane, Nic and I teamed up to dispatch the spectacular Sunrise Book on the shorter West face of Elephants Perch. It offered 5 crazy pitches up a dead vertical and overhanging corner. This intense route ended in a giant chimney/roof that was one of the all-time sick finishes. The Elephants Perch is fast becoming my favorite alpine wall! Enjoy the photos, and go there someday! More on my On-line journal Gear Notes: 2-3 sets of small, med cams, set of all stoppers Approach Notes: Redfish Lodge boat ride. Then 3 hrs hike in
  13. Nice work guys! Getting tougher to drive to the Rockies now.
  14. nice, is that the N ridge you are on?
  15. Things, I hate: Mosquitos, mice, wind, waiting out weather, and a damp 1 lb sleeping bag. I almost always take a tent.
  16. First: your not gonna keep people from being foolish. Second: Really though, it could have been bombed from the top. ..the word could have gotten out about the conditions (provided an interpreter was available..) Loss of life can be prevented. Sounds like they got a ton of snow I almost fell off a 12 foot crown there after it 'lanched in 88'.
  17. Largest non-volcanic mountain mass on the planet! its stats are insane ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Logan ) . Proud effort on Logan, team.
  18. Tremendously fun looking climbing, Thanks.
  19. Nice AAC! Looking forward to it. Can tickets be bought last minute or at the event? Maybe Mazama would make the next great toilet project?
  20. Glad I found your report Tan! Nice to see you had a great trip.
  21. Made my rainy work day that much tougher. Nice going.
  22. I have been waiting for someone to mention that the hut is being occupied often by families. That means screaming kids running around at all hours. Snoring etc. Didnt want that for my vacation. Signed, Grumpy Old Man
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