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About sharp_end

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  1. Skeletor, I went with Alpine Ascents. The main guide Jose Luis was a joy off the mountain and a powerful general on the mountain. A great combination. The other guides that we had for the trip were also professional and strong. The 1:1 guide ratio for Chimborazo was excellent. Most of my group turned back. Only two of us made it to the top. I did not know these people before we met in Quito. I would hate to have my opportunity jeapordized because I was hooked to someone that couldn't make it. However, I fell in love with the pictures of Jorge Anhalzer. He is very well know. I would have loved to meet him.
  2. Trip: Ecuador - Pinchicha, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo Date: 1/16/2012 Trip Report: I have been wanting to go climbing in Ecuador for several years. When I have the partners, I didn’t have the money. When I have the money, I didn’t have the partners. Finally, I decided to pay for partners. Going with a guide service made for a luxurious and stress free adventure. Ecuador is different. Being at 10,000 feet and having warm weather was weird for a NW guy. We had a nice hike around town to start the acclimatization. Our first objective slowly got me used to climbing at the equator. I have been to the summit of Rainier a couple times, so I have a certain idea about what the weather at 14,400 feet should be. The first objective was Pinchicha, 15,500. This picture shows us at the summit. Not exactly snow and ice. Then we were off the Antisana, a huge collapsed volcano. The first pictures shows the group on the ascent. As we were going up the glacier, I felt the entire face of one of the gulleys just drop about 3 inches. A very scary and weird feeling. Like a short earthquake. However, this was not a good sign. Higher up, after digging a pit, the layers indicated serious avalanche danger. We made the right decision to turn back, but it never feels good. Here is a panoramic looking towards Cotopaxi in the clouds. Our third objective. Cotopaxi is a beautiful mountain. We spent a night in the park resting at the Tambopaxi lodge!! Then on to the Jose Ribas hut. After spending a night at the hut (with 100 others), we left around midnight for the summit. What was good weather the day before, was hurricanes and “viento blanco”, white wind for our summit bid. The rime ice continually grew on our shells as we approached the summit. Traversing the huge crevasse field was a lot of fun. A couple of us got to about 800 feet from the summit before the remaining guides turned us around. I really wanted to see the crater, but it was not meant to be. Last objective was Chimborazo. The furthest point from the center of the Earth and the big challenge, 20,700 feet. We felt acclimatized, but about 1/3 of the group was out with a viral infection. I just wanted to get to the summit and then I didn't care if I got the groups infection. Again, a short hike to the huts, food, and then an attempt at bed. Sleeping at 16,500 is not easy and I got zero sleep. By the way, don’t use a 500ml Nalgene for your pee bottle. If you have 550 ml’s of pee, it’s not pretty. The climbing was tough due to the snow conditions. Occasional solid snow, but mostly sugar snow. One step up and a half step back. We arrived at the Ventimilla summit. About 200 meters below, but about 30minute hike from the true summit. I was about to pull the plug. A little rest, food and I was so glad I pushed on. Here are some pictures of the last hundred feet, a dorky one of me on the summit and another looking back at the Ventimilla summit. An incredible adventure. The guides at Alpine ascents were incredibly strong and a joy to spend 2 weeks with. Gear Notes: ice axe, glacier gear, goggles Approach Notes: 1 long flight, several short hikes to nice huts.
  3. Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold's Couloir Date: 4/20/2009 Trip Report: Jared posted on CC, looking for a partner for the Sandy glacier Headwall on Mt. Hood. Having faith in the climbers on CC.com, I replied and said great, let's go. On Monday night into Tuesday, Jared Janowiak and I climbed Leuthold's Couloir instead of the Headwall. There was a strong warming trend and the freezing level was above the summit that night. We thought that rock fall may be too much on the Headwall. We were also cautious about Leuthold, but decided to take a look. ( I should note, that Jared did a trail race on Sunday, then drove down to Portland on Monday evening, picked me up, climbed over 5000 feet in elevation, then drove back to Seattle without crashing his car on the return drive. Impressive) Anyway, we got to Illumination saddle in a little over 2 hours and then got ready for the glacier. It was cold once we stopped. There was one other group ahead of us, but that is Hood. There is always someone climbing. We got going and ended up taking the couloir just to the left of Leuthold for a while. We were trying to avoid the rock and ice fall from the group ahead of us and got off route a bit. No problem. It ended up being a steeper and more exciting adventure than I remember Leuthold being. We had a nice view of the sunrise shadow of Mt. Hood. We eventually had to traverse over, which cost us some time, but we were well off that face before the sun hit. Soon we made it to the queen's chair and took a short break. This is a picture of Jared looking towards Helens, Adams, and Rainier. Then came the long hike up the last snow field. The snow on this portion of the mountain is crappy styrofoam. Always best to follow a trail on this section. We had the sun as soon as we made the summit ridge. We had a good snack and break on the summit then it was time to get down. No problem getting down to the hogsback. Then came a long descend down. It is good to have someone you can talk with, because this descent is long and boring. We could see a little white speck that was the car for the entire decent. Some nice glacades helped. I convinced Jared to take the quickest and easiest way down the magic mile, which saved us some time. It was a great trip, with a very strong climbing partner. Jared really did most of the step kicking, while carrying an extra 2 gallons of water. I like climbing with people training for trips to Alaska. Gear Notes: Glacier gear, 2 tools and Jared Approach Notes: Drive to parking lot and park below the large flood light.
  4. [TR] Southern Pickets - E Ridge Inspiration, Chopp

    Holy .... Those pictures are top notch. I love nighttime pictures. It seems that you are a true lover of those photos as well. The difference between you and I is that you can actually take great pictures. Let me know if you are ever in need of a climbing partner. Quality photographer/climbers are rare. I will work for you if you ever need a pack mule.
  5. Forbidden Obsession

    No, this isn't some porn posting. I love Mt. Forbidden. If you have climbed it I hope you'll understand. Early on I did the W. ridge and feel in love. Later, the E. ridge. I have been turned back from the N. ridge 2 times. Once I forgot the food. Another time, we were bivied on the N ridge, spitting distance from the summit. The morning brought ice covered rock and we had to retreat. I'm looking for a partner to climb the N. ridge the weekend of August 2/3. I'd like to bivy on the N. ridge and finish on day 2, but I'm open to suggestions. Help me finish Mt. Forbidden!!
  6. Climbing this week

    I would be interested in some Friday climbing at a local crag. I used to lead 5.10, but now I follow that, but love taking the 5.8-5.9 leads. If the two of you want to do some multipitch, then go ahead. Teams of 3 suck on multipitch. Otherwise, let me know. 206-729-0748 Jason
  7. [TR] Mount Shasta - Avalanche Gulch 6/7/2008

    Good job Kathy. Looks like you had one of those perfect climbs.
  8. [TR] Alpine Lakes - Colchuck Glacier 5/28/2008

    Thanks again for the steps on the upper portion. Your steps turned the second half of my climb into a stairway. A long and steep stairway. Thank your dad again for the vitamin-i.
  9. Climb/camp/mountains?

    Hey Jordan Currently, I planning on soloing the SW couloir of S Early Winter Spires. I was hoping to then find someone at Washington Pass that would like to do the Beckey route the next day on Liberty Bell. If you are interested, shoot me an email at jtschuman@gmail.com. Jason
  10. memorial day weekend plans??

    I would love to get up to Washington Pass this coming weekend. What do you think about a trip up South Early Winter Spire to do the SW couloir route. One-day, should be fun. Then the next day, we could do some rock. Maybe the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. I think the weather on that side is going to be much more reliable.