wayne

Trip: Canadian Rockies 12-12 - Date: 12/5/2012 Trip Report: Even though all venues are under an early season ennui, Canada remains a reliable place if you have to go ice climbing. We had hoped to go to the Hyalite Icefest, but the team agreed we had better chances at a lot of ice going to the colder regions. After all, it is still early season in the first week in December. Things are in good, yet still building there, and the big routes may still drip. Day 1, I have taken to visiting the closest crag first, in order to climb as soon as you can finish the drive. Haffner Creek is great for that. Tough short routes immediatly reward the long drive. Satisfy the whole clan, including Christina on her maiden ice trip! Huge thanks to http://www.promountainsports.com/ for having all the latest gadgets for this crazy fun sport. Day 2, warm up day on Moonlight and Snowline again with Lane, Christina. D3, following the great advice from Steve we head into the Ghost. Enjoyed Dead Bird , Yellow bird, and Good, Bad , Ugly rounded out a fun outing. Hope to see the rest of this cool valley someday. D4 and it is time to try something big with the master himself, Steve. He had his eye on a set of routes ending high on Mt. Wilson. Oh, Le Tabernac is a 2 pitch 5 that gains access to an even bigger cliff that offers much greater prizes. The most obvious hard route was Whoa Whoa Capitane . Steve had already done the crazy one on the far right: Les Miserables. He saw fit to do the 1st lead on OLTab. It ended up being so very wet for him, enduring a constant shower for half of the pitch. With guilt I led the dry second pitch, and we started the big wallow up to the upper bowl. What an amazing set of climbs are up there!!! The ultimate Ice Crag, offering a half dozen multi-pitch stunners. We were to be humbled by more water pouring down the early season ice. Next time. D5 Cold temps can be dealt with unless accompanied by high winds. That was the scenario that led us to the Grotto Canyon, enjoying its shelter and very fun routes. Enjoy the photos, and please be a part of the online content like you have read here, post your report soon.thanks. More here on my blog report.

A que on I-rock?!! Good times.

Try Integral Designs? Pro Mt Sports carries that brand.

That does it, I am calling Layton.

Great job on the report! Miss that place

Nice work there. Like you use of quotes.

He was so inspirational to my generation, got me stoked to raise my game for sure.

I am sure you mean mummy3? Yes, great mixed.

Huge thanks K,

Nice adventure! Never been gripped reading about going clean on aid before

NW Couloir on Eldorado Tyson, Where is that?

Wish I could go, but 8pm start on a school night? , Old Codger

Bens shots of Turkey Monster Soon to be seen in Rock and Ice.

Thanks for all the work, Its on my radar for next year. Supertopo does Stuart Range next?

Most peoples first trip involves multi-pitch rock climbing.El Mocho, Luna etc.If you are there for a while, try something bigger, maybe Poincenot. I would train for rock , endurance and load carrying.

Ladies, watch those ponytails, they love them too!

Careful Lowell, your slippery slope into Canada may slip down even lower. Example 1:FWA, Cascades FWA 2

Amazing list Lowell! Thanks The Cherry in the Cascades would be any of the North Faces in the Pickets.

Yes, classic report for sure, thanks

Wow, thanks great report. I love that place.

Good question, but man, way to much time on your hands to answer that one.

Nice Shaun! I ran into an old partner of yours , he said he used to get out with you before you got into the bad-ass group and took off. Enjoy yourself, and be safe, Wayne

That route sounds so interesting. Likely to go on his long list of unrepeated routes though unfortunately. Wish I had half the talent to try it. He is at the top of his game and what a legacy he is leaving for the next generation to aspire to.

I really enjoyed it, waaay back. Thanks for bring back some great memories!

Prophetic words! ..and I agree. It takes surviving a couple of accidents to cross these bridges of awareness, unless someone is mentored. It helps to be scared/careful/still enjoy it.