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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Glad I found your report Tan! Nice to see you had a great trip.
  2. Made my rainy work day that much tougher. Nice going.
  3. I have been waiting for someone to mention that the hut is being occupied often by families. That means screaming kids running around at all hours. Snoring etc. Didnt want that for my vacation. Signed, Grumpy Old Man
  4. pm sent
  5. Now that I revisit this, It was Steve Elder that drilled that bolt after his solo on that (Yellow/blue) route. It must have been the North Skylight that Jim and I topped out on back in the 90s.
  6. Did summit-chaser do a documentary on that route?
  7. wayne

    Wallace Falls rescue

    What an amazing rescue, Hats off to those involved.
  8. Not a difficult route, just long access, and route finding issues. 1. 1 2: 5 3< 30lbs 4. Axes (access) Creek 5: 5 -7 pieces 6. rope is a non issue, single 50 Luna col- to Luna col in a (long) day. Good luck, its a classic.
  9. Yes, it is pretty fun. The summit cornice however...
  10. wayne

    Lazy Guidebook Authors

    At least there are those books, I co-wrote one due out 3 years ago and still waiting. I sent pages of corrections to Fred that probably wont see print either. As long as we are ranting about books, I struggle with the info part of Winter Dance. The cody section in particular needs the map supplement you can get at the Bozeman climbing shop. Ever try to decipher the Burdo series? His latter works have improved though. I do like Inland Rock Climbs though.
  11. I met Dave and his concerned father while trying the N Face of Index in Winter. Dad found our camp and asked if we had seen anyone. Conditions were great so I assured him, and told him we would have a look. Soon afterwards Dave and his partner came down and chatted with us. He later helped my partner get his lost crampon returned to him. Very enthusiastic, interesting and engaging young man, Sorry for your loss, Wayne
  12. Jeez, its alpine rock season already! ?
  13. thanks gotta work all summer again. it was an expanding block, I found that out when I tried a cam hook afterwards, duh. it was on the 1st aid pitch just below the roof and pendulum. top 2 pieces blew, then the bottom 2 werent directionals so they back-zipped.
  14. I dont know, someone may chime in, I hear it was an accident that caused both ankles and a wrist to fracture," hearing second hand info", of course.
  15. Trip: Town Crier, UTW, Index - Date: 5/14/2012 Trip Report: There are many different “sports” within the sport of climbing. May 13th, 2011, I decided to revisited one of my old favorites: Aid climbing. I really used to enjoy its propensity to allow me to be in some ridiculous places. In the late 70s, and early eighties, I dreamed of doing El Cap and many other amazing routes that require such skills. Then came sticky rubber and I was almost exclusivly a free climber after that. Aid climbing gave me a great base for rope management, rescue techniques, and getting-out-of-trouble skills, that I think every climber should have. After recent decades of ignoring, I decided it was time to dust off some old skills. Turned out to be worth doing for a couple of reasons.. Saturday practice for Beau on City Park (c-1), and we tried to sleep to the sound of rescue helicopters pulling a multi-fractured climber off the wall we were off try on Sunday: Upper Town Wall, above the town of Index. Sunday we got up early, as the temps were expected in the mid 80s for the day. We were going for a south-facing route called Town Crier. Beau had the rock shoes, so he took the first free sections. I then kicked into the first of three, c2 pitches. The 6th placement blew out on me taking with it numbers: 5, 2, and 1. At least numbers 3 and 4 held! The 20 foot fall stopped by Beau (The Awesome Belayer/Climber) Carrillo, left me 5 feet above him and a ledge, PHEW! It was nice to know the system works. More on blog. Gear Notes: gear to 3". extra small nuts
  16. Not bad for your first trip in there!
  17. Very nice trip report, thanks for putting that together!
  18. Resickulous! I thought the water quality kept webfoots from cranking that hard. I know a few videos done by an old burned-out slogger, but he aint pulling that hard. vimeo
  19. Seems to be fixed now, Thanks
  20. Run it through a front load wash machine,gentle soap. I would tope rope with it. Then plan on getting a new lead rope sometime.
  21. ***like & thanks
  22. me-Jon it appears to be an issue with safari and security. Here is the blocker word for word, Wayne Safari cant verify the identity of the website "Platform.twitter.com". The certificate for thes website was sighned by an unknowncertifying autheority. You might be connecting to a website that is pretending to be "Platform.twitter.com", which could put your confidential information at risk. Would you like to connect to the website anyways? :3 options: Show certificate, Cancel, continue me-I click on the question icon and I get: If your certificate isn’t being accepted If a certificate is not accepted, it may have expired or it may be invalid for the use to which it is being applied. For example, some certificates may be used for establishing a secure connection to a server, but not for signing a document. The most common reason a certificate isn’t accepted is because the certificate authority’s root certificate isn’t trusted by your computer. To trust a certificate authority, it must be added to a keychain, and the certificate trust settings must be set. To add a certificate authority to those trusted by your computer: Obtain the root certificate from the certificate authority. Some applications (such as Safari) display the root certificate as part of an error message you can simply drag the root certificate icon to the desktop. Drag the certificate file onto the Keychain Access icon or double-click the certificate file. Choose a keychain from the pop-up menu and click OK. If you’re asked to provide a name and password, type the name and password for an administrator user on this computer. Select the certificate, and then choose File > Get Info. Click the Trust Settings disclosure triangle to display the trust policies for the certificate. To override the trust policies, select new trust settings from the pop-up menus. me-I have tried many thngs to get rid of it but it keeps popping up most of the times I click on this site, Thanks for looking into it, Wayne
  23. The second pitch of Centerfold. 5 stars sounds like you need to expand the list, say 50 Classics?
  24. $250 would be a screeming deal!
  25. Am I the only one who gets this platform,twitter pop-up certificate?
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