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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. That was you guys on Pyramid? Party of three. We were the 2 you saw headed down from Colonial. I posted a tr.I am also the guy you saw on DNB, Bear Mt.
  2. David Parker and I wrenched or way up this amazing climb in a 16 + hour marathon from a camp low in the cirque. We also came all the way out in the dark. There seems to be an unwritten code with the people capable of doing these type of routes. It seems to say dont let em know how hard or commiting the climb is in general. Well.... In this case I will say it is a route not just anyone should jump on. To say it stretched me is an understatement . I simply wasnt that comfortable with the realization that a fall in many places would have been unacceptable or fatal. Maybe we didnt catch it in the best shape either. The crux bulges went rotten at the steepest parts.(verticle,though the book states 70-80 dergrees). I forgot the ice screws ,though they wouldnt have been usefull throught the cruxes. We tended to rock pro when we could excavate them and THANK YOU MICHAEL LAYTON for the use of your picket. I just wished we had borrowed another. Keep this route in mind only when your experience /fitness level is at a high state and be safe always on your adventures , Wayne p.s. Lets hear from the group that was in the pyramid peak area
  3. I think everyone should go there this weekend.
  4. Good work Billy! It is good to see you had the guts to try and the sense to know when to bail. I have looked at that buttress . The rock has very sweet coloring in the summer, It looks like a winter only type deal too. I can say for sure the ice rts on middle ,e face. and sou sis , nface are great climbs and recommended highly
  5. May the wind be at your back!! Make us proud and envious Erden!!
  6. wayne

    CC Article

    Thanks for the input , we will see if one of the papers pick it up . Thanks, N by NW ,for the editing
  7. Post deleted by wayne1112
  8. The gorge hasnt been in in awhile. I believe my friend Bob M. was one of the first to visit the area. There is so much in the Gorge when its in. I havent heard of much in the way of mixed . Who was the one working on that project?
  9. wayne

    CC Article

    Duh , Did you see the part about being a Carpenter??
  10. The following is an article that was wrote about CC that the climbing rags waived on publishing for being too local. Here it is for comments and maybe someone knows of a venue that would publish it?(please respect publishing rights and contact the writer) It is now being thrown to the Sharks of CC! ------------------------------------------------------------------ Herding the Cats: How the Internet has affected the Climbing Communitity in the Pacific Northwest By Wayne Wallace I was driven into my perceived computer hell. For the last 37 years, I had never wanted to learn anything about them. It wasn't until I was stranded in one of the most remote places in the world for a couple of months, did I use the Evil Box. I relied on the satellite phone to link up my emails to my family and loved ones, and was forced to the dark side of the force. Though I am recovering, I came around at just the time one of the largest climbing websites in the world was getting going. Since October 2000 the website known as Cascade Climbers has become bigger than the young creators could have ever possibly dreamed. With over 3000 members and more joining by the droves. The software is getting overloaded and overused. Obviously there is something big going on here. "I created a Monster"Said Jon, the young biologist turned part-time Internet mogul. (Sic). Jon related how it is THE supreme personal example of an idea of his became hugely successful .He never dreamed it could be so big and notorious as it currently is. There are many other websites and message boards, but none are as constantly active and full of all kinds of interaction between climbers. Yea those antisocial, but very social cave dwellers that don't have much else to do when it starts raining in the Northwest. Some currently logged on are people stuck at work; some are people with no life, young, old, and some not even in the sport. Perhaps half of the chatter is not even about climbing. Of course it has trip reports, beta, and latest conditions. It also has a lot of different personalities on board. It has become everything from cars sales to a dating service. It is threatening to herd the cats into an actual and virtual community. For all it does, it does have its dark side.... Its critics say there is too much B.S. It could be another stale chat board but it's because of the B.S. that it is not boring. Much of what you may see with negativity is opinionated people expressing their own values or ethics. For example, it may be conflicts between age and traditions of participants. Old School Trads will pick fights occasionally over bolts. "Yes we have our problem users",says Jon. People can act like complete idiot with no consequences. Lurkers, Sprayers, Gapers, and downright twisted minds seem to rule here at times. Here is one of the more insightful posts: Zen Spray Master Member # 623 posted 10-04-2002 12:53 PM I believe that it more a manifestation of the anonymity of the posters than any one, or number of anomalies.When I was a kid, we used to hide down a side alley and lob oranges at cars passing by on the street. There was no way we were going to do so standing out on the curb, but hidden as we were, it was fun to thunk one on the hood, roof or trunk of a car. I equate this site and it's participants in much the same way. Those who don't hide behind an alias aren't typically so brutal as those that do. With anonymity, social conventions take a back seat and the "fun" goes over the top. Posts Keeping a level of sanity to the chat is the group of people known as "The Moderators"They alone have the power to erase any thing from death threats to sexual deviance. They have been known to delete someone's membership or merely ask him or her to chill out. Some negative posters have popped back up under different user names. It seems elitism and pride will always have a haven here. "For me it is mostly entertainment",Says Captain Caveman, One of the most notorious posters. "You would be doing the same thing if you were stuck at a computer all day. There are other things to it as well. It is a great resource of route conditions and beta. It has everything from washed out roads, fire closures, rappel stations, photos, personal route experience, advice, and opinions. We all only have so many tentacles as an individual. With this our reach can be endless". A sad but useful example was the tragedy that took Goran Kropp from our tenuous reach. The news brought the board to its knees with the story. It was almost exclusively dealt with on the site, with his friend/partner posting the sad details constantly. It gave us a place to morn and heal; to question the very mystery that draws us to the heights. People from all over the world joined in as we pour over this transition. The bottom line, productive thing, it seems to do is it brings people together. There are many people I might not have met without it. Days and nights spent at home wondering what to do. Each week throughout the N.W., I see people meeting for climbing or beers. If it hasn't happened yet, some people will be married from this site. There is no telling what adventures you may see. Climbing is a little cooler when it can be shared, celebrated, and satired. USER GUIDE: Simply log on to: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/mt/climb/ Or simply type in cascadeclimbers.com, you can see the entire site without registering, however you need to register to post a comment or send a private message. I found the people who started the site to be very accessible and friendly. The site is currently in a state of repair, but just keep clicking and you will find more than enough. Try clicking on: "All Posts"Before you know it, after meeting a new person, your first question might be: "What do you post as?" Glossary: Lurker: The creepy people who view the site without registering. Sprayer: A person who goes on and on about personal accomplishments or nothing at all. Wanker: An elitists term for a person not climbing difficult stuff. Newbie: a person new to the sport. Horsecock: A term Fred Becky used for large sausage links. Wayne Wallace is an accomplished climber who has lived in the 3 most western states. He is a carpenter foreman and father of 2. He currently resides in Seattle and spends his weekends exploring the North Cascades.
  11. oNE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT WAYS i HAVE DONE IT IS TO HAVE THE LEADER USE A SOLOIST AND LET THE OTHER 2 BELAY EACH OTHER . tHERE IS ALWAYS 1-2 PEOPLE CLIMBING AT A TIME AND IT REALLY MOVES FAST IF THE LEADER IS QUIK. Stupid CAPS-LocK BuTTon!!
  12. I would love to host another party but it couldnt go late out of respect to my neighbors . That is why the super bowl XXVII was perfect . Lets see another brave soul step up and support our chronic habits !!!
  13. The only book I found more amazing that "THE LONG WALK" Is a book called "WE DIE ALONE" it is so incredible that you will not ever underestimate the will to survive again . My girlfriend found both books on Amazon.
  14. I want to be like John..
  15. someone left a slide reel here . I suspect Matt. I will bring it to pc tues. No , I didnt do the artistic writing on my toilet seat. Wayne
  16. Huge fun, Thanks all. Sorry about those punkass road warrior wannabe raider freaks.!
  17. Hey dig in again Pete ! A true Hero
  18. Just keepin the thread up.
  19. I am considering having a Super Bowl party, I started a thread on it
  20. Is anyone interested in having a party at my new place? I just finished my climbing wall and want to do the housewarming as well. I only have a 20-some inch TV but there is a dry tooling route here. PM me if you are interested
  21. wayne

    high winds

    Ian , thats sick. What was the freezing level down there?
  22. Did we tire of giving each other stars ? I found it to be amusing but strange game. It was fun to see how many people were interested in a person enough to bother to rate them. I had fun giving a person who did a second ascent of one of my routes a 5 star rating ,and being the only person to rate him... People quiclky brought him down after he threatend to rise above! Let the games begin!
  23. Lockspot sounds good to me .The poll says the same thing too what is the address?
  24. Congradulations Doug and Matt! That was probably the second ascent. Aside form my playing on it,Your trip was one of only a couple forays I have ever heard of that dealt with the I-rock in winter conditions , believe it or not. So , it has interesting rock quality but , I have so much fun climbing on it . The next thing you should look for is Rime Dog .It starts in the left steeper gully and goes straight up from there. It is my favorite and I may repeat it for the 3rd time this weekend. As far as the East Face is concerned the rock at the very start is bad .the middle is great but the finish is bad too. I have climbed stiff cracks there in the summer, but it is a bit sunny for winter stuff except for March Madness, a pure water ice route. Good job!
  25. wayne

    NY Gully

    One of the tings that makes this climb interesting is its steepness. It would be an interesting angle even in summer with rock shoes. You have dihedrals to stem it out though. I did it solo in 5 hrs.
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