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syudla

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Everything posted by syudla

  1. And what, pray tell was wrong with that...40 yrs ago?
  2. I've also met DeChristo and its true. He is de stink individual.
  3. Damn. How do you do that?
  4. The morrows will be fine. Partner has them and we've been to Logan, AK range etc with them.
  5. Fat, lazy, and really wasn't paying attention.
  6. When we did the route, at the first rap I took a huge swing and timed the drop so that I didn't go in the moat. Partner didn't make it and I had to reel him in. Great route.
  7. It was the Sumner/Heath
  8. Trip: Aiguille Extra IV 5.10 - E. Face Date: 8/1/2007 Trip Report: Several needles south of Whitney lies Aiguille Extra. (Just right of center) rh turned me onto this. He had one day to do it and had none of his usual partners. So Wed found us on the approach and arriving at the base around 8:30 AM. The route was alternately stellar and chossy and eventually we wound up at the crux pitch 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately at that time the skies opened up dumping lots of hail. It became serious quickly. Above the roof a retreat was called. As luck would have it, the weather improved as soon as we committed to descent. Things weren't perfect on the descent but we are both alive. As my partner put, "A great adventure".
  9. I am personally of the opinion that the zipper itself will be fine. The pull tab might die, but in my experience the sliders are durable. Of course, CiloGear will stand behind it if it goes bad. The 45L pack was created after extensive feedback from Kelly Cordes in his search for a lighter weight pack. We made several modifications from the 60L worksack to make a lighter pack without making it from virtual toilet paper. I think the balance of weight and durability is pretty good, but these ain't haul bags... Yup, totally understand and it isn't torn or punctered, nothing like that, just some 'normal' abrasion. The zip was at first stiff enough that I thought it may skip some teeth but with use it seemed to get smoother. The pack I really like and will become my primary alpine pack.
  10. Recently bought the cilo 45 and had an opportunity to try it out on a technical route. The pack carries quite well (for me) without the frame sheet and replaced with a 3/4 z-rest. The z-rest is very snug fitting and would be a bit of a pain in the ass to replace in very cold weather. But we're all hardmen right? As mentioned before the strap system is clever and you should play with it before your first trip so you can 'innovate' your carry system as you go. I carried the pack up a long alpine route with the top collapsed and the lid removed. I barely noticed it EXCEPT when trying to squeeze into a couple chimneys. It shows some abuse on the back panel from these efforts. The lid zipper seems a bit stiff to operate compared to others but doesn't seem to be a problem. It does make me wonder about durability of the zipper tho. Time will tell. Overall it is a really nice alpine pack and easily carries everything I would need for a week of backcountry climbing.
  11. Trip: Mt. Goode - North Buttress (5.9) Date: 7/19/2007 Trip Report: Pavel and I had been discussing this route for a year. We finally managed to get together and do it. Its a fine route that plops you directly at the highest rocks a few feet from the summit register. on approach A little closer. The line starts in the right hand of the two bottom dihedral's. Then traverses left into the shadowed chimney/dihedral system that then runs up to the crest of the buttress. Then up the crest to summit. Pavel just above the crux Gear Notes: Alpine rack to medium sizes. Edit: A cilogear 45 was too big for the chimneys.
  12. Yup, that was us. Congrats on the route!
  13. Trip: Fairview Dome -Regular route. Date: 6/25/2007 Trip Report: Nice route. Only a bit of wetness on P1. Soloed from the top of P6. Took too much gear. P2 P4
  14. Jedi, did we meet you up there? We were the old guys trying to do Cassin and never got the weather in our admittedly short window. Ended up trying the one day push over the upper rib. I think we just dont have the patience anymore. Mark and Colin, great job!
  15. Yes. I chopped for a good 30 min (well it seemed that long)Trying to get over the 'shrund of the mini-moonflower last month.
  16. Trip: Mt. Whitney - East Buttress Date: 6/20/2007 Trip Report: Decided to do this route solo on my way home from work. Left the Portal 5:15 am. Back at Portal a little before 3pm. Faster than I thought, funner than I thought. Looking up route. Looking down route. The Peewee stalactite. Gear Notes: Approach boots, Rock shoes Approach Notes: N. fork
  17. Spilt east couloir is not a summer type ice route. It generally forms in early winter with an early snowfall and melt freeze cycle. More predictions FWIW: Left Mendel will probably not come in this year on the crux bulges. Mendel right will be in early and thin or rock in the top several hundred ft. U and V should have ice by August Gilbert will be thin but climbable in the middle by August. Thompson in early. Humphreys, early melt out. Bottom line...early season. Maybe.
  18. I have the eVent south col, and the winter bivy. As you probably do/will, I use the winter bivy in AK, (cold dry) conditions and the south col when i can expect liquid precip. My only complaint about the S. col is that it lets blown snow or rain in at the junction of the side zip and top zip. Lay with your head to the wind whenever feasible. (eVent is da bomb!)
  19. Goddamit I wish I was still a local...
  20. syudla

    I fondeld my gear

    warcraft
  21. Naw, really, just fukin whichya. 8D
  22. The winter route on LPP is already melted out this year. Whitney EF is very doable in early May.Pons is prolly a good call.
  23. Funny, of course, we all assumed you were older than me when you, Syudla, Crazy JZ, and I met on the King's porch at Bluff Lake, what...almost three years ago? And now its just months before I hit 5.0
  24. Used to make the oldest take off his socks and stuff them in his mouth.
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