Date of Climb: 8/26/2006
Trip Report:
Found the route to quite enjoyable despite copious quantites of loose rock. Bivied after the steep snow/ice slope. Pitched out about 4 pitches from the start on Torment. Back in BB by 1 or so. Kicked back a couple hours and hiked out.
No digitals, sorry. Have to wait for film.
Gear Notes:
Small alpine rack. Used 2 screws, could'a used maybe 2 more. One 50 mtr. rope was just swell.
Climb: Mt. mendel-Left couloir (Ice 9)
Date of Climb: 8/19/2006
Trip Report:
The mythical Ice 9 proved at least to some extent, to be mythical.
Getting over the first chockstone
Switch to rock mode at crux bulge. (No ice)
ice in the upper couloir
couloirs on approach
Gear Notes:
Brought much, used none.
Its a pretty notorius area. We experienced a crevasse fall there in 2002 and a guided party a couple days behind us had their lead guide fall in and get a little beat up.
My condolences to the family and friends.
No worries,
Sorta leaning toward triple couloirs. Predictions as to condition, say mid april? Guess I shoulda mentioned doesn't nesscesarily hafta be dry rock. And its not really in lieu of AK, that'll be Canadian Rockies
Love the pickets but the effort of getting there is worth more than the couple days I'd have to stay. Spent a week in the northern in 2000. I changed my vacation schedule, so tho I now have time in spring, it is broken into smaller chunks of time. (With work in socal in between)
When would the road up depot cr melt out?
I'm sure many of you will get a big laff outa this but,
I suddenly find myself with a lot of spring, time. My AK trip fell thru so can you guys recommend some good technical alpine routes that may be in shape between now and mid-may. I'm not a local so its a bit tough to stay in the loop. Anything up to 4 day trip will work. I have the CAG's circa late 70's/early 80's.
titter away..