syudla

Mazama/Winthrop was the coolest place I've ever lived. Man when goat wall freezes... Easy place to become single, stay single. On the downside, the best way to become a millionaire there, is to move there with 2 million.

thanks for the leads.

Any body here climbed this route? Plan to climb late May early June. Looking for any useful beta or advise. (Plan to descend W Rib for approach) Is the 'shrund still split by the ramp?

Sure sounds like the same thing.

Diagnosed with impingment as well. Unfortunately had the surgery last year (on doc's recom) with 0 positive results, and actually its a bit worse. Pulling motions such as ice climbing don't hurt too bad, (except for tool removal) pushing much worse.

Save me!

Serratus icefall, cheap, light, tough

Try Alaska Direct bus. We used em last spring and they were great. $75 P/P BTW, Andy was $350 P/P US for Logan E. ridge

Very cool to hear from you fats. Your camp is in an amazing position. I ended up scraping out another small ledge just below your platform as the weather was good and no need to spoon

Let's let the spirit of exploration live on!

AHH, Well congrats on the successes. Wish we could've done more...

Was that you we ate dinner with?

How did you like kshatrya? I'm thinking I'd like to do the route.

Climb: Serra Five-From Asperity/Serra Five col Date of Climb: 7/26/2004 Trip Report: 7/24 We had all the base camp nessecities flown in with us to Sunny Knob. Beer, nachos, salsa, Bailey’s, you know just the stuff you really need. The plan was to do a modified Waddington traverse, starting with Serra Five and traversing Asperity, Tiedeman, Combatant, NW and Main pk. of Waddington. Then for shits and giggles maybe Bravo on the way down. Ambitious plan. Weather forecast was good. We packed and planned for a 3AM getaway the next morning. 7/25 I cut Tom’s sleep short by waking him at about 2AM and making him look up at the awesome display of Northern Lights being played out overhead. The best I’ve seen in many years. So it wasn’t much more sleep after that. Stumbling down the slopes of Sunny Knob and out across the morainal debris of the Tiedeman by headlamp we headed for the base of the Serra glacier and climbed up to it through a veritable bowling alley of shattered rock. Then across the lower apron of the Serra I led up into a complex crevasse field that we hoped would lead to ‘Carl’s couloir’. We climbed up the ice slope and through the crevasses often on front points until finally we were on easier ground and off battery power. The double bergshrund ahead looked pretty intimidating and we had no idea if we could find a way through. I hit the shrund first and probed to the left hand moat. Much to my relief there was a small slot we could climb but too narrow for packs. We would have to haul. Tom came up and insisted on checking the right side. It just looked ridiculous to me. He climbed about 100 ft. of rock and lo and behold! The moat on that side looked climbable...with packs! Good on ya Tom! Up we went through the moat and came out into the upper ‘shrund. Tom started for the moat again but I spied an avalanche cone that appeared to run through to the upper lip, right into another avy funnel that all the rock and snow came sliding down. Well I climbed through as fast as possible and Tom followed on immediately after. We were through the ‘shrund’s! Then it was just several thousand feet straight up to ‘Carl’s camp’. My right ankle started screaming at me about halfway up. I damaged it permanently years ago in an ice climbing accident. 7 advil later it seemed to doing OK again. 11:30AM and we were at Carl’s. Off the snow and on the rocks for a moment we took a lunch break. Then came an under estimated, totally bullshit traverse into the back of the Serra cirque. From the pictures I had it had looked to be a stroll. I have not ever been on a more tedious and mentally draining stretch of ground. Not more than 1/4 mile, it took hours to cross terrain that varied constantly from soft avy prone snow, to a few inches over ice that would constantly skate away dropping your foot until your crampons caught, to hard ice and dozens of avalanche runnels. We were waxed by the time we crossed the final dicey as shit bridge to the easier ground of the upper Serra glacier. Eventually after sitting and waiting for the final couloir leading to the Asperity/Serra Five col to be shaded we stood beneath the final bergshrund, comparing how many bridges we had each punched through on the glacier. The rock fall coming down the funnel in this couloir had abated somewhat with the lack of direct sun. I couldn’t wait any longer. I crossed the open ‘shrund on the avy debris and started climbing directly up the final face of the upper lip. Sun rotted ice made it difficult to find good tool placement but I made it up and climbed out of the funnel as fast as my legs would take me. Then I stood watch for rocks coming down as it was Tom’s turn. He made it to the upper lip before I shouted a warning “ROCK!!” Stupid me was still looking up slope while yelling and Tom didn’t hear me until the last instant ducking his shoulder as the basketball sized rock flew over it. 1500 ft above our high bivy on the col awaited. The rocks weren't through yet though. Near the top we danced in place dodging more rocks that came flying at us with our names engraved on them. We arrived to a bone chilling wind that made diving into a small bivy tent a distinct pleasure. 7/26 Slept in today. Lots of big wind last night, but the little ID tent took it well. Finally Tom got up to look around and came back after about an hour. “Well hows’ it look?” I ask. “Not too bad, maybe we should try Serra V” OOOH let’s go” is my enthusiastic reply. “And tomorrow we can go up over Asperity.” No response. So I get dressed and we head out for Serra V and climb a little snow and mixed ground to the base of the summit tower. Then followed 3 of the best mixed pitches I have ever enjoyed. It was a surreal pleasure to be climbing in this place on this peak. On the summit Tom gives me a look and say’s, “You know, I’m looking at the ground ahead [on the traverse]and there is just a shit load of work.” “Yeah” I say starting to feel the other shoe about to... “And I just don’t feel up to it. I’m going to get myself or you killed” THUMP. The shoe dropped. I guess it wasn’t totally unexpected. He had been mentioning how beat he was and out of shape. I didn’t say anything immediately. But it is not my style to push someone when they feel unsafe, sick, or old and broken. I have turned back in the past when someone has been unable to go on. “Umm, If you really feel that way then I guess we go down tomorrow..?” “Yeah, I just don’t think I can do it.” Unexpectedly we found a summit register in the rocks. We opened the can and read the register entry’s. Three ahead of us but we realized that at least one party had not signed. Hesleden and Richardson. Then we discovered why. No pencil. No freaking pencil!!!! We scoured our clothing for something to write with, nothing, nada! We toyed with chocolate, lichen, and debated writing in blood as appeared Davis and Diedrich had in ‘89. Nothing worked and we just weren’t as hard as Davis and Diedrich, time to go down. Three raps into the wind faced us. On rap 2 Tom lost a BD rage as it levered itself out of his holster and bounced into the abyss. Rope snarls slowed us considerably but eventually we were back at the base of the tower and from there we down climbed back to the bivy tent. Wind was less and though we were going down we were both in good spirits, but I did feel disappointment. 7/27 Sort of a leisurely start, we were out of camp about 8. We rapped down the couloir using bollards, threads and rock anchors. I was dreading going back across the traverse to Carl's. Sure enough it sucked just as bad and we took a lower line that was no better. We had some rock to work with but the runnels were much deeper so it was about a wash. Tom was sitting on some rock about to start out into the shit again when a wet slushy avy poured down the runnel a couple feet away. “Well it missed, right?” he says. We made it Carl’s camp and decided to bivy for the night. The couloir below was in no good shape to descend. A more spectacular bivy spot one could not ask for. Perched on a narrow crest that diverted slides off to either direction, the walls Asperity framed the view across the gulf of the Tideman to Mt. Munday. To the other side side lay the walls of the Serra's and Stilletto. Unfortunately the fires that had been burning delivered so much smoke that the view was somewhat stunted. We had most of the afternoon to kick back and relax. Tom kept us entertained with lots of scottish humor. 7/28 Sling a rock, rap. Dig a bollard, rap. Drill a thread, rap. I made all the anchors while Tom struggled with pulling the lines down off the bollards. The process went on a long time until we reached the crevasses of the Serra glacier. “How did we get up through this shit in the dark” I said as I led off into the maze. We slowly worked our way to just above the apron where we we drilled a final thread and rapped down to the flats. Then it was haste back through the bowling alley and an easy walk back up to Sunny Knob. The base camp nessecities we had brought proved ample on our return. The trip was mightily abbreviated but we had managed to pull off what appears to be the fifth ascent of a very elusive summit. Gear Notes: Ice gear, no cams were used or carried. Set of hexes, nuts. Approach Notes: whirly

They're even lettin NV dudes w/ colorado partners in. We were over on Serra 5 and summited the 26th

OK, there's a few pics in the Canada gallery

Hey Martin Didn't know you hung here.... but probably should've. Next month i'm off to Waddington but Jeff has to work so drummed up some interest from a colorado friend. Hope he can match Jeff's weather juju... For the rest, too many random drug tests at work so that's all well in the past. Just getting them developed.

Pics? At the drug store

Climb: Mt. Logan-E. Ridge Date of Climb: 5/12/2004 Trip Report: 11 consecutive days of outstanding to decent weather saw us fly in from Kluane, bypass several camps, drop caches, and from 12000 go light (everything is relative!)to the east summit in 3 days, and return to Andy's. The lower knife edge was in poor condition with sun rotted ice on the south but nice firm alpine ice on the north. The upper knife was not an issue. Very high winds (60 and gusting higher)on summit day but with relatively warm temps it was entirely managable. A great trip! Gear Notes: Ya need ta know how to make good snow anchors or be prepared to leave lotsa gear on descent. Approach Notes: Fly from Andy Williams at Silver City.

A direct reply to your original question. Hell Yes!! I have done the approach from WR to Ptarmigan H.C. twice. Once mid June and once mid July. Neither time was crossing the Carbon a major issue tho of course July was much more broken. It makes great sense when Mowich is closed. PM me if you want a more detailed description.

Buy my neoprene's for 10 bucks at wal mart. Work fine to about 0-F. Burn em up pretty quickly tho. They don't last long on the raps.

climbed it on 6/27 still very good conditions. A little blue ice on the right variation before exit chute.

Went up there last year specifically for that route 5/28 and couldn't fly in due to the weather. Paul said he wasn't sure if he could land us on the Nabesna at the normal 7500' pt. but said in good weather might be able to land at `9000. We ended up flying over to Bona cause we didn't want to wait. (Sat in Chitina for a few days, yuck!!) Check with Paul for alternative landing sites. The route is normally brutally windy.

I am in Gardnerville, a bit south of Carson City. I'll look forward to meeting you in late season!

Hey lots of interest here! I am from the land the Sierra and as such will probably not make it back to the PNW this season. I was there a couple of times this year, and AK. If any of you can make it down to the E. Sierra for some winter climbing I'd love to meet you. Will be doing Mendel couloir on 5th &6th. Gilbert couloir on the weekend after. As for Robson I was on it back in 1984, (yeah, I'm old) and want to get back and summit the dog.