backcountrydog

myself and a couple other locals replaced many old bolts within the last year at index, also replacing worn webbing at anchors w chain. there are at least 2 organizations that will give you free bolts and chain for replacing old anchors only (not for new placements). so you dont have to spend your money flash, just put in the time...do some scrubbing to will ya?

i saw that, it happened a couple weeks ago. i was curious myself, because its not trees that are right up against the crag... a couple days after it happened, it was fairly noticeable, with fresh sawdust. its less noticeable now, and come spring, it will look as brushy and shaded as it was. im not condoning it, but its not like the trees were big (6 or 8 in dia) and it wasnt too many... i would rather they ripped out blackberry bushes personally

i used a big snowboard bag to ship my skis (185) up in. it was one of the bags with wheels and could hold about 6 boards but it held my skis, boots, and a ton of gear. i flew with alaskan.

I dont know if anyone has ever climbed it either, it has certainly been attempted though... by who?

"my binding plates had bent from the build up snow under my feet" did this happen right where the climbing bars are? were your climbing bars up? i ask because it seems like it would take a bit of snow to cause a bend, and if you climbing bars werent up...then didnt you notice a wad of snow built up under your binding and whack it out with your pole? this happens to me during wet snow slogging, but if my climbing bars arent up and there is a big wad of snow under there, then it jacks your foot way up and gets annoying so i use the tip of my pole to punch it out. anyway, the folks at voile have always been very cool over the phone with me. they have sent me free parts more than once (nuts, bolts, keeper pins), and seem like they want to keep their customers happy. good luck

using only 1 biner on a bolt will cause the rope to trap, or pin the biner against rope when weighted. this IS a bad idea. also, skipping bolts on a bolt ladder aint no big thang...

while it may not be 'ideal'...2 biners as a draw while aiding works just fine.

check you pms ade

i would suggest venting the back door the same as the front (at the top). in my experience this has been the most effective way of venting and results in the least amount of frost. you will still have frost inside though.

calling all the people on the house list took me 7 minutes (beat ya o-white ) easy as pie and most of them told me that almost everyone who called in was against it. do it, do it now...

up

just fyi that pic that nolse posted wont give you an idea of snow in the methow as sherman pass is no where near the methow valley.

i dont check in every day so a day or 2 could go by before i answer pm's

im selling a bosch bulldog 11213R model. it comes with a case, 2 batteries, and 2 chargers. i also have it set up with a 'supercharged' kit (2 linked 12v batteries w/ about 20ft ext. cord). i have 2 12v recharges going with it. you can drill about 20-30 holes with the supercharger setup. the 2 bosch batteries are kinda old and can get up to 12 holes between the 2 of them. i just got the drill cleaned and tuned with new brushes added. all of it for 200. particularly usefull for bolting every random piece of rock out there pm me

dane in your post that stated this thread, did you send bd, metolius, and petzel that email? if so, did you email them back giving them you opinion in your last post? just curious

rafael the scenario i am describing is the bottom of the 2 pictures in tomtom's link. it is very easy to duplicate if you have a bolt and a draw right in front of you.

same way, for sport draws (which on my rack are shorter style) for 1 big reason. if opposed, when the draw 'follows' the rope, the gate of the biner on the hanger can be opened by the bolt.

i have a pair. i like em a lot. approached and climbed backbone ridge in them for their 'break-in' climb and have no complaints.

if going w chain or quicklink i think 3/8 is the standard to go with(strength/thickness). the working load for run of the mill hardware 3/8 quick-links is 1980 lbs. 3/8 chain is less. not sure where u live, but tacoma screw lets you cut whtvr length of chain you need, their quicklinks are kinda expensive.

yes i have seen it i was quoting from the guidebook that quote was not the point so, uthinks kramer was mad, etc etc. any first hand knowledge of this? who cares, this is way out in left field from bolt discussion.

So you have no first hand knowledge of this? Methinks Crammer was mad it got chopped and wanted to get even. The guys who did it are on (or were) this board. Take it up with them. dude, first hand knowledge? what are you talking about? i explained to you that 'clumsily chopped' was a quote from the guidebook. i could care less. so proof of whtvr is irrelivent. the POINT is, it was chopped and so the next generation of climbers you speak of will look at this and assume that bolting gear protected climbs is NOT acceptable. not the other way around. seems kind of silly to assume what all these new and upcoming climbers are going to be thinking just because they went climbing at exit 38 or heard about a retrobolt getting chopped?

'clumsily chopped' i was quoting from the guidebook.

the unwritten rule about adding fixed gear to an established line is 'ask permission from the first ascentionists'. i had heard that the offending bolters did get permission from the first ascntst. does anyone know if this is true? that is 1 example and the rte was 'clumsily chopped'. i dont think that the next generation of climbers will have a problem understanding that this wasnt acceptable. im not aware of any others and i dont think that rts in leavenworth are runout in general either. but ddd was runout and 1 or more of the fixed pins that were present 'in the rtes original condition' when it was first led have been gone for a while. who cares the rt was chopped that ones over. i would say dont be scared about 1 or 2 rts being retro'd. sometimes rts are brought out of obscurity and appreciated by climbers. go climbing...its more fun that being scared not climbing

im not so sure that most people will assume this. and if they do, they will probably adjust there assumptions when they climb somewhere else. the next 2 closest climbing areas are index and mt erie? if these misguided exit 38 begginers go to one of these areas they will see that it is nothing like exit 38 and will assume that different styles of climbing are adopted at different crags. OR, 'most' of these climbers will never put up a rt in there life, therefore laying to rest any worries about them 'grid bolting every random piece of rock' out there. i think that as climbers we are staying on top of things when it comes to overbolting. go read the 'bolts by subaru' thread

arlen, im not sure what your point is. there ARE crags w a no bolt policy. thats great! i think that there should be. im not sure why you state this... i never said that there was a 'natural' point of equilibrium, but rather "the pendulum WILL rest somewhere inbetween. a consensus that survives if it fits kinda sounds like the same thing to me. and people talking about ethics is a good thing, i agree with you... however i think theres a big difference between a crag that has some sport rts and a grid bolted wall. just like calling a sport rt a bolt ladder isnt exactly accurate by most climbers definition, imo