backcountrydog

p.s. theres bolts all over lost arrow, camp 5 and fairview...

i had an old tool with grip tape on it. same thing as skate deck tape i think. it was in a couple strips on the grip. worked great but wore my gloves out where they came into contact w tape. the rest of the glove was still fine

easy gov'ner nothing wrong w clarifying. some friends did that a few weeks ago (w snow). prob couldnt notice there tracks w new snow and melt/freeze cycles being what they have been. theres wasnt first ascent this winter either though... sounds fun anyway. glad u guys had a good time

what do u mean 'first ascent'?? i think u mean its the first time it was climbed this winter. if so...how do u know that? and today (22nd) is the first day of winter anyway. happy solstice all

ya 60 footers arent the best example for the biggest slam on the belayer. i should have put "falls UP TO a 60 ftr INCLUDING enough factor one falls to know that my experience base includes a bit of everything". All that said...even when i did use a figger 8 (in stitch mode) the rope never slipped enough to burn me or anyone that was paying attention while belaying me. if your using the 8 in rap mode to belay, well, theres your lesson. in my experience, MOST climbers dont wear gloves cause MOST climbers dont get the hands burned catching falls. sounds like a nasty burn if u do, and if u werent paying attention and the rope slips, having gloves would save u a burn; although maybe prolonging the lesson to PAY ATTENTION lest u want burned hands and a seriously bumming (or worse) climbing partner

just another opinion... in 10 yrs of climbing and catching LOTS of whippers and taking WAY more, i have never had my hands burned by the rope nor seen anyones hands burned by the rope catching my falls or anyone elses. i attribute this MOSTLY in part to using an atc instead of an 8. i think the main reason, however, is making sure the belayer is at full attention the entire lead. seriously though if the rope is burning your hands something is wrong. the biggest whipper ive caught is a 60 footer on el cap and the biggest ive taken is a 40 footer both with ZERO rope burn to belayer. all that said, the times i have used gloves (rapping w pig, mutliple full length raps, etc) it felt like a luxury, providing better purchase on the rope with not much loss in the way of sensitivty. however the loss of sensi i did experience, i felt was made up due to an increase in awareness of the whole scene DUE to said 'lack of sensitivity'. for those w sensitive hands gloves sound like a reasonable approach but nothing beats an attentive belayer and an atc. SAR applications i know nothing about.

being a climber in wankers clothing...or is it wanker in climbers clothing?? regardless, i have learned to loathe the figure 8 and love the gri-gri... seriously though, i think the atc is much better at catching big lobs. 'locks off' with ease and i do use the term 'locks off' loosely cause it really doesnt lock off now does it? i think the tests show that there is more slippage when catching a fall w the 8s. i dont hate them i just think that modern belay devices do a better job. and they do twist the rope more so than the other devices ive used IMHO. but the golden rule about all of them: there only as good as the person using them. and with a compitent belayer: the gri-gri is king

i climbed rainier in them. i think there fine for anything under 2 days. but unlike many boots, they fit my foot well. so that makes them good boots in my mind

if u referring to me... that climb was definetly harder back in 'the day'. i was just a little disapointed that it wasnt harder. i didnt use a rope, the chimneys are an easy downclimb with good holds.

well... i just got a ticket for no pass. ive gone all this time parking at MANY a trailhead w/out one, as i wish to boycott the 'demonstration program'. i tried to follow this post but the got tired of reading the crap about everything but forest passes. so, im putting the question out there, has anyone successfully got out of one of these tickets by using the "dont force me to vote 'yes' by buying a pass" plea?? ive signed the petitions, called and stated my opposition to state reps., etc. so ive gone through the proper channels, filled out the proper forms blah blah blah. i think i know the answer, but someone pls tell me some good news.

um...duh

i did the standard (south) rt a couple years ago in just over 5 hrs solo, round trip. that was hanging out on top enjoying the incredible views for half hour or so too. the 'hazardous enigma' wasnt quite what i thought it would be. there were other sub 3 hr summits from wht i remember too. i havent read too many summit register entries that i ever doubted...none in fact. ever known anyone to chant falsley in a register?? id go up there again to climb that leaning tower. real cool looking

i checked out the sharma thing...and i looked at the ice pic. there both cool if u ask me (which nobody has). so now im getting the hell off the computer and going climbing on rock so overhanging that no matter how hard it rains, its dry...oh ya, only an hour outside of the shcity too.

its amazing anything got climbed w/out cell phones in the past. hahhaha maybe someone should make a long distance beacon that could ONLY be used in case of emergency. like avy beacon but for those that dont feel safe enough to go into backcountry w/out some assurance. if your calling from the summit u should expect getting some shit from other climbers. (if there are any around that got there w/out the use of a guide) just a thought but do u think that any of the cell phone climbers are also ones that bag on others for climbing sport, boulder, or whatever??

from what ive read at times on this site and from what ive seen 'climbers' who post on this site act like at the crags...id say hugh is right on with SOME of his insults/accusations. i didnt read the post that got him kicked off (the thought it is pretty sick), but try not to talk too much shit because he might be more of a climber than those of you lining up to bash him on this site. and this is, or was, intended to be a climbing site right??

i have had multiple 'bad attitude' experiences there. I have also witnessed other costumers being being given the 'god what a pain in the ass you are' attitude. its a bummer because i like the store and not all the employees are like that. i havent been in there in over a year

if going solo... the betamid is smaller and lighter than megamid (2.5 lbs w/out floor) if u use trekking poles, which double as tent poles. the one draw back to not taking floor (another 1.5 lbs) is that if its buggy and the tent is staked low to ground, the condensation builds up quick so make sure your not up against one side. other than that...the betamid does fit the bill for a bomber, lightweight shelter. ps on the outside of betamid, on the twin peaks, r 2 loops that enable it to b pitched using rope between to trees, etc. if u dont use poles for hiking...megamid Might b the same way, not sure. ive used my betamid for 4 season use and love it.

It goes clean on aid yet the sporty's don't like the commitment required to place gear on lead while free climbing. neither do "aid" climbers

and quite acting like your some peaceful partaker of the herb. herb is about peace and chillin', not guns and marines

christoper your a certified, A-#1, military issued dildo. if you and your BEEE-AWCH cant do your pissing and moaning out of everybody else's way or sight , then how did you manage to haul your sorry carcass all the way up to sahale. its only a 7 or 8 mile hike but thats a LONG way to go to be that much of a dumb-ass

christoper your a certified, A-#1, military issued dildo. if you and your BEEE-AWCH cant do your pissing and moaning out of everybody else's way or sight , then how did you manage to haul your sorry carcass all the way up to sahale. its only a 7 or 8 mile hike but thats a LONG way to go to be that much of a dumb-ass

jman after reading the whole thing through i see a lot of good points to your argument. you have somewhat of an extremists point of view (by todays standards). if the earth could be preserved in its natural state in areas of population concentration it would be a real tribute to the intelligence of our species. unfortunately, and most obviously, we are only intelligent when you compare us to lesser life forms on our planet. as a group, forget it. sub-groups, ya. but the whole enchilada...your dreaming. i think thats why you and your 'what right do you have' post piss me off so much. in the big picture, what is a bolt really hurting? what major impact does a climbing area really have? what is the general level of awareness of this group of users? as a climber, i have thought about this, as have many. but your not even a climber. your sitting on the outside looking in, choosing to find the negative. one thing that climbing satisfies in me, is some feeling that im getting away from poeple like you. you ARE the man. at least have some experience in the field your making judgements on. everthing we do as humans has an impact. did you drive your car to the mtns.? does the food you eat and the products you buy have packaging? do you use paper or wood products? how about petroleum? as humans we CANNOT live without affecting our environment. we feed on life in some way or another. in the big picture, climbing is a somewhat low impact activity. we dont throw budwiser cans at our areas (or even drink the shit for that matter), we arent using motor powered vehicles for climbing rocks, and from my 10 yrs of climbing , i would say that Most climbers care about their environment (even those that put in bolts). if your biggest bitch is about a bolt that 99% of the population will never see, doesnt that clue you in on the fact that we're not the big bad user group you want us to be? go fight to save old growth, or caribou, or whatever is in danger of becoming extinct. by all the posts responding to yours, you should see that climbers dont need you and your inexperienced point of view. you said that you were thinking of going out and buying a rack of draws and going climbing. you should. it might be the best thing you could do. and yes, there is a difference between bolting and all of those ridiculous examples you gave in the beginning.

pope, turn off your computer and go climbing.

hey will what kind of bindings are you using on your board? i have a split board and want to switch to plastic boots and a wire binding. i was thinking of invernos and the voile wire binding. any experience with either?? or how the handling is with this setup?

maybe the rangers in question consider themselves 'hardcore trad rangers'. maybe they think that anyone who needs a register to sign at the top of some mtn., just to show they did it, is a pussy. maybe the 'leave no trace' (except the 'trace' they justify) ethic is something they feel strongly about. most 'hardcore "fill-in-the-blank"-ers feel strongly about something. personally i like reading, and signing, registers. its part of climbing history. much the same way that pitons, bolts, cams, and the I'm-a-climber-and-I'm-right arguments are a part of climbing history. since the rangers work where we play, we have to deal with their opinions. i just hope that the ideas and actions of the cascade rangers arent as extreme as some of the bolt gridders/bolt choppers in the climbing community. maybe there is a cascaderangers bulletin board with all kinds of bashings about pussy, 'user', climber types...