backcountrydog

oh...i was under the impression that IB was on the Main peak formation, which on page 211 of beckey shows that the summit im thinking of is a looong way away from the West peak. thanks matt

sorry for my ignorance of the route, i just havnt looked it up yet, but...does this route reach the same summit that the southwest route reaches? if so the sw rte is an easy descent. it took me just over an hour to get down that way...

ive used the ushba basic ascender for years w absolutely flawless performance. no teeth to chew the rope. feeds smoother than anything else out there imo. the only back-up i use (if at all) is just clipping an ascender about half way up the climb and leaving it there. u could clip a jug to the end of a daisy and drag it up the rope below u if u were worried about it.

ah gotcha matt, i thought it was a 'running rope' question. ya biner on biner is cool, as is sling to sling imo cheers

answer to the biner to biner question... if the rope is only running thru 1 biner clipped to the bolt, the rope runs against the rock, causing the rope to get pinched against itself when weighted, and rubbing against the rock as it slides thru the biner. the extra biner (oriented in a perpendicular position to the rock) keeps the rope out of contact w the rock when sliding thru the biner, allowing for smooth feed

check out petzels site. i think theres info on the ASCA site regarding glue-ins too.

ive climbed on the kettle w of curlew. about 7 yrs ago. a few bolted rts and a few mixed rts. the rock seemed to have a lot of ledges, not very much continous rock, or very high quality.

14v dewalt cordless w plastic brush wheel bit. 2 batteries can do a great job on an 80ft rt. the wire brush wheels tend to where down faster and use more battery power. small saw small broom gloves to save your knuckles if your cleaning cracks

whats a 3/4" route?

we did the w butt in 2 wks. that seemed to allow for a good amount of acclimatization. i agree w what most are saying, allow your self more time than you think. it would suck to make it to 19k (or less) and have to turn around, knowing that if you allowed a few more days acclimatizing you might have summited. as far as twights comment...you can get blown off that mountain and die even on a 30 degree slope. dont underestimate it just cause its the standard rt.

its only one pitch. i did clean up the link up to 'just say no to frank sinatra'(just say yo), which is a fun 5.10 if you finish on 'frank presley'.

thanks for the correction Ru...err lance. im retarded, its mourning star. i hope it sees more traffic now that its cleaned/anchored up. its a fun route.

this climb has been recently cleaned/gardened and is a nice climb or warm-up if in the Country area. 5.8/9-ish, new anchors.

oh no, not someone doing a bunch of leg-work and trying to make a few bucks off of it...anything but THAT.

i think that most (?) start the 2nd pitch off the ledge, but like i said, 'he was doing it in 1 pitch from the ground'. anyway, he was released after 1 night in the hospital. good thing he was wearing a helmet, or things would almost for sure been a lot worse. good luck on the recovery bro.

he was on the 2nd pitch of rattletale about 20-30ft above the ledge and fell, hit the ledge and bounced off. no gear ripped as the only piece in the dihedral was towards the bottom. he was doing it in 1 pitch form the ground. injuries werent TOO bad, good bump on his face, cut up and a little bloody, but coherent.he didnt appear to have any spinal injuries. he was carried via litter to the talus just east of rattletale and airlifted from there. he was wearing a helmet.

i use a hanging stove and cook in tent regularly. no probs

i just got back from leavenworth and pulled 4 of them off me. 3 big ones and one very small...a deer tick i guess. oh the horror

i have one and like it. i dont think i like it any more than my standard gear sling, but its padded nicely and has a bit more of an ergonomic shape to it. i didnt pay full price for it and wouldnt go outta my way to replace it if i lost it...come to think of it, where is that thing

we humans are a good bunch of parasites arent we

ice, ice, ice...and vitamin I

yup...on St. Patties day too

nope i bought it several years ago (cant remember where). and while getting out of an tight placement, the actual trigger just detached from the sleeve. it really wasnt THAT tight though, as i got it out w/ a nut tool in less than a minute. i was pretty surpised that it broke, as i have many aliens that have put up w/ far more abuse and are doing fine. i found it recently in the bottom of the gear box though and want to see if i can get it fixed/replaced, but cant find there info anywhere

he did say IF...meaning that it was open to debate, and that the conclusion (in bold letters) COULD be drawn 'if it applies...'

theres a couple different sds bits on the market similiar to the hilti bit in C-bolters link, and they definetly last longer than the plain-jane bits hanman refers to. i saw one brand in the hardware store today...jorlan(?) i think was the brand.