backcountrydog

to those that spoke up amidst a sea of dismissal...

im curious if the people who placed the bolts were local guides, and if they were hired through their employers or as a side job thing. when i think 'local guide', i think of someone that should know better...

scott since we are talking about cragging, i said 'lots of places you shouldnt place a bolt' in regards to cracks, even if it is a crag. or retrobolting w/out the 1st ascntst permission, etc... the extremes on either end of the topic dont really fit into todays crag climbing picture. a 'bolt it all' attitude or a 'no bolts in climbing' attitude arent very practicle. UNLESS your talking about an exit 38 type area (necessary evil) or at crags w a no bolt ethic (england somewhere?). somewhere inbetween is where the pendulum will rest. just because dwayner or whoever isnt here to say "NO BOLTS AT ALL" inbetween every thread, does that mean there is no discussion? that doesnt appear to be the case. what i see is 7 pgs of bolting discussion that hasnt been moved to spray and people are voicing there opinions almost as if we were all adults or something...

leading sport climbs is fun. people dont want to be told they Have to lead a sport climb, or they can't bolt a face simply because it would be possible to set up a tr on it. and at a crag, they shouldnt be. bolted climbs have been coexisting with crack climbs at crags all over the world for years. whether or not you want to understand that bolted face climbing is a part of climbing history, as are bolts...is up to you. sport climbing took off because all kinds of climbers like it, not just sport climbers. there are lots of places you shouldnt place a bolt. but thats no reason to ban all bolt protected face climbing. not that you could... cragging is fun. btw this the best bolt discussion i have read yet on this site.

after reading all of this, it doesnt sound like there is anyone that is pro-litter. i am all for mixed rts but i dont think leaving draws up for months is good style. but ill bet those draws have been up since last winter, and since this is the first time its been made an issue here(?), how big of an eyesore is it really? unless your going up there looking for something like this? and if someone is going to do the rest of the cc.com climbing community a favor by taking the gear down, i think they should continue the favor and return the draws to the person who left them. after all, having fun and sharing a love of climbing with fellow climbers is whats its all about. oh ya, and actually going out and climbing

mine is all hashed up too. this happened w/ an earlier issue and i reported it to there 'damaged mag' dept. they said a bunch of wa. subscribers were reporting it. they gladly sent me another. im going to do the same thing this time. for 13 bucks it shouldnt arrive ripped.

i dont know but i thought i remember hearing about a repeat of eve dearborn several yrs ago...no?

Lafuma Warm n' light. weighs at just under a lb. 80 bucks i think? from 2nd ascent. its about the size of a 6" sub when packed. i love it

Offwhite i think you bring up a lot of excellent points that MOST people who climb (and complain about climbs) dont consider. deciding what to do in certain situations is reserved for those that put up routes and maintain them, for the most part. and people who dont put themselves in the position of pioneering new routes, dont often understand the decisions faced in doing so. and marty and lucky are pretty right on w what they are saying

ya...no i bouldered there for 2 yrs before the logging, and many problems had been developed and boulders cleaned. yes i(we) scrubbed moss, u have to in order to climb. then the logging happened. the destruction that was caused was so out of proportion to the bouldering that i dont know how u can look past that to the climbers. and im almost sure that the marks you saw on boulders were caused by the chokers that the loggers use. giant cables used to move the downed trees to the edge of the cut so they can be hauled away. no wire brush can make those marks. but yes, we do have an impact and i think that almost everyone i have met out there is trying to somewhat take care of the place. i have removed trash from the logging, and i know others have to. and 1 other thing, when i went on a climbing trip in europe, there was so much more shit at the climbing areas than i have ever seen here. climbers actually shit and leave there paper at the base of rts. i dont see how u can say we suck when u have those things going on in your part of the world. also boulderers are still a minority grp at the zekes area. every weekend hundreds of motorcyclists use that area leaving behind a shitload of trash. it sounds like your comments are due to a lack of information about the area

oh...i was under the impression that IB was on the Main peak formation, which on page 211 of beckey shows that the summit im thinking of is a looong way away from the West peak. thanks matt

sorry for my ignorance of the route, i just havnt looked it up yet, but...does this route reach the same summit that the southwest route reaches? if so the sw rte is an easy descent. it took me just over an hour to get down that way...

ive used the ushba basic ascender for years w absolutely flawless performance. no teeth to chew the rope. feeds smoother than anything else out there imo. the only back-up i use (if at all) is just clipping an ascender about half way up the climb and leaving it there. u could clip a jug to the end of a daisy and drag it up the rope below u if u were worried about it.

check your email.

ah gotcha matt, i thought it was a 'running rope' question. ya biner on biner is cool, as is sling to sling imo cheers

answer to the biner to biner question... if the rope is only running thru 1 biner clipped to the bolt, the rope runs against the rock, causing the rope to get pinched against itself when weighted, and rubbing against the rock as it slides thru the biner. the extra biner (oriented in a perpendicular position to the rock) keeps the rope out of contact w the rock when sliding thru the biner, allowing for smooth feed

check your pms

check out petzels site. i think theres info on the ASCA site regarding glue-ins too.

ive climbed on the kettle w of curlew. about 7 yrs ago. a few bolted rts and a few mixed rts. the rock seemed to have a lot of ledges, not very much continous rock, or very high quality.

14v dewalt cordless w plastic brush wheel bit. 2 batteries can do a great job on an 80ft rt. the wire brush wheels tend to where down faster and use more battery power. small saw small broom gloves to save your knuckles if your cleaning cracks

whats a 3/4" route?

we did the w butt in 2 wks. that seemed to allow for a good amount of acclimatization. i agree w what most are saying, allow your self more time than you think. it would suck to make it to 19k (or less) and have to turn around, knowing that if you allowed a few more days acclimatizing you might have summited. as far as twights comment...you can get blown off that mountain and die even on a 30 degree slope. dont underestimate it just cause its the standard rt.

its only one pitch. i did clean up the link up to 'just say no to frank sinatra'(just say yo), which is a fun 5.10 if you finish on 'frank presley'.

thanks for the correction Ru...err lance. im retarded, its mourning star. i hope it sees more traffic now that its cleaned/anchored up. its a fun route.

this climb has been recently cleaned/gardened and is a nice climb or warm-up if in the Country area. 5.8/9-ish, new anchors.