jshamster

no personal experience, but this linky is useful: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/road_conditions_report.shtml the gold mine up there reopened last year, so i have heard that the road is good shape now, but sounds like there is snow up high still.

I did not have a camera that day. Dave Y. took numerous pics, and maybe he will write up a TR, or just post pics. Pitch 19 is great & easy; 21 & 22 are good pitches, totally out of character with the rest of the route, and still quite dirty. I had a much easier time on the upper pitches this time around as we split the climb into two days. As far as 20 goes, I have tried pretty hard to free it on both lead and t.r. I felt like I came a lot closer last year. Basically, as you probably know, that groove is super water polished. Slick as snot. Still need to find a better technique than just stabbing the toe and standing up. We both worked on a couple of alternatives, but really did not come close to styling that 3 or 4 feet of groove. Topo seems pretty mislabeled, as the A0 is in the lower part of the groove, and not exiting the groove. The rest of the pitch is very straightforward, easy even. cheers jimbo

Yep. I've been up there three times, and have always hopped over the boulder. The initial fern field, first 30' or so, were not knocked down at all, but the rest we managed to smush pretty well. I'm surprised that you could not tell of our passage. We definitely used the trail that you, Dave & others beat in over the past few years. That brush is quite resilient between the creek and the forest! I have not run in to any other braids of trail in that area. cheers Jimbo

Sweeeet! Saw Dan driving up 542 on Saturday afternoon. Figured a line like this was in the works. Nice summer skiing John, Scott & Dan.

Well, you weren't the first party through there, as Dave Yount & I climbed it on Tues/Wed. Route is very dry. More so than last September. Probably best to bring water up from Squire Creek, unless you don't mind pretty stagnant puddles. Another note, there is a useless, smashed bolt on pitch six. Hanger is smashed, and bolt wiggles and rotates 360. Not hard climbing there, but that bolt needs replacing. This route is in great shape, but more folks need to climb the last couple of pitches. Still pretty dirty up there. Pitch 21 has two pieces of fixed gear right next to each other. Someones medium sized nut, and my red alien that I managed to fix last year. Cheers. Jimbo

Pretty sure this is the best way to get it: http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/rock/index.htm

Dang. Barely got to know her over the winter. Super passionate about climbing. Condolences to all of her loved ones. Jimbo

Ummm....did she work @ Stevens Pass this past winter?

so, i'm curious if y'all did the first pitch of the Rash, or Bees Kiss Butterflies? Matt P. & I were up there last weekend, looked at both, and decided that BKB was a better looking start. Pretty runout, but easy. Some creaky, wobbly flakes...just don't pull out. Also, as easy as the climbing is on the actual Rash pitch is, it is somewhat freaky climbing 70 ft. or so to the first bolt. Fun times. cheers jimbo

you cleaned a route AND claimed a first ascent. big diff. from just cleaning. AND you added it to an online guidebook of sorts. Guess that humility thing just don't take with you. AND a lot of the folks being critical DO clean a shit ton of rock at Index and other places. But that's not in a guide book, so you wouldn't know that would you? Cleaning is always appreciated. Just not the look at me, look what i did attitude.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1206293/Three-ElCap-Routes-in-a-day-in-progress-4-17-on-the-nose

Only picked it because of my wicked route finding skills. First bolt I saw was the Taxman one. Shiny SMC hanger and all. Yesterday we stuck to routes with all modern hardware. Over the Rainbow, The Troll, and second pitch of Combshot. All fantastic know routes. FYI, the first pitch, sweet looking handcrack, of Combshot is dirty as hell. Didn't have any brushes with me, but maybe I'll make it back up there and scrub it. Looks worth climbing. cheers Jimbo

Nice man! That area is one of my new favorites.

Not Penny Lane. We climbed that next. Line of buttonheads. Who knows? Fun climbing, and probably a tad harder than the parallel pitch on Revolver.

Nice. Could you drive all the way to Phelps TH?

hmmm...i think i can make that. where at? jimbo

i'd go to bugagoos or valhallas.

nice pics. thanks.

pm sent

don't leave beer where others can find it. duh!

success cleaver is a good route to solo. no glaciers = no glacier gear. still gotta know mtns. though. far away from any rangers, so get a permit/don't get a permit. most important have fun and stay safe. cheers jimbo

I don't recommend it by any route. so why do you even bother to get the permit? why the f'ing crusade and endless speculation about soloing Rainier? i really just don't get the endless soapbox preaching on this subject. especially since it grew out of an unfortunate accident in which the solo permitting process had absolutely NO bearing on the cause or outcome of said accident. didja just need a hobby? bored 'cause of the rain? even had to take the cause to a bunch of california rock climbers, eh? http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1191420/Soloing-on-Mt-Rainier really thing they'll jump on yer bandwagon? maybe, maybe not. it's great that you are in a constructive dialog with NPS, but the misinformation & speculation that you are spreading on cc.spray is getting absurd. good luck with the crusade. jimbo

dude. i don't know about all of the games, but most will be on espn.com for freeeeeee. just got done watching the first two matches. one game that i know is NOT on espn.com is the usa v england. maybe 'cause it's on abc not espn.