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jshamster

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Everything posted by jshamster

  1. That summit register is actually 40+ years old. First entry from 1965! It was a bummer forgetting my sleeping bag, but it was a pretty warm night out, and Wayne graciously lent me his long johns and down vest. Not too bad really. It was a great route with a great partner. Spectacular ridge line, evil approach gully, and a walk off decent. What more could you ask for? Thanks Wayne! Cheers. Jimbo p.s. - no spooning necessary due to forgotten bag.
  2. sumthin' like 5 or 6 hrs. Of course the snowboard helped.
  3. I love the Bay Area. Lived in Marin for a few years. Yosemite and Tahoe are fairly close, and great places to climb. You cannot get to Red Rocks in four hours.
  4. The Superfly pitch is a friction crux, but there are bolts in your face and it is pretty short. First time I did it I fell maybe two feet, figured out the sequence, and sent. Not too bad. Much more fun way to go than Antifly IMO. Sorry, can't really remember the .10 comparisons to SR. Cheers. Jimbo
  5. I know they are allowed to be unroped. Hence my erasing that from your quote. They do not need a solo permit to climb alone. That was my point. I did ask 'em, seeing as how I'm related to one. Cheers. Jimbo
  6. It's really not so much of a case of allowing the rangers to solo, as it is sometimes requiring them to solo. Only so many rangers on the mountain at one time, and often times mountain patrols are assigned to a single ranger depending on the route. This is the federal government. As far as skiing goes, it is fun, and an efficient way down the mountain. I'm not really commenting on the specific incident, just my 2cents on things in general. Sounds like the ranger in this incident is going to be fine in the long run. Out for this season, but hopefully back to making the mountain a safer place in the future. Cheers. Jimbo
  7. Nope. I've done it, and it is no fun wandering all over trying to find raps, and/or rapping from single bolts. Takes longer than climbing the routes. Do yer self a favor and climb on doubles in D-town. Or drag another rope. Cheers. Jimbo
  8. Climbed it a couple of years ago. At that time it was in fine shape. All pitches clean. I don't figure it has deteriorated much since. Probably gets climbed a fair amount each year. Cheers. Jimbo
  9. I realize it's your route, but if the Mythic Wall is cragging, then so is most everything at WA Pass. I don't really compare it to SCW, what with the hour or so of schwackin'. Yeah, it's only a few pitches, but the Green Creek Cirque is definitely alpine. I say add that one to the list. Cheers. Jimbo
  10. I've often thought of doing both routes in the same day, but my toes never really want to cooperate. Glad you had fun out there. Go get the Dreamer! Cheers. Jimbo
  11. Nason is a little cooler, but mostly south facing so not that much. D-town temps have been perfect;-) Whut up Bobby? Cheers. Jimbo
  12. Nice! I really like that route. Try the Superfly next time. .11a and super fun moves with bolts in yer face. If I remember correctly, you don't rap from pitch seven anchors. Probably why it is not equipped as a rap station. The D-town season has been a good one so far. Great weather and not too hot. Sloth, anytime you need a slab partner let me know. D-town is some of my favorite climbing in the state. Cheers. JImbo
  13. Cool! Those belong to my brother-in-law. Didn't realize they were gone until we got back down to the Mtn. Loop. I am waiting for a call back from him to describe. He's currently at the hospital with a fellow climbing ranger that broke his leg on Rainier today. I'll be in touch. Thanks. Jimbo
  14. If your really stuck on the idea of climbing the C-D, it would be a much shorter traverse from Mt. Baker Ski Area/Ptarmagin Ridge area, or just suck it up and hike the Glacier Creek Rd. I would suggest getting off the beaten path and checking out the Boulder, Park or Rainbow glaciers. Some great areas of the mountain, not on the standard routes with everyone else. Whatever you decide, have a great time! Cheers. Jimbo
  15. Got on Jacobs Ladder today. Second trip up the route. It's a good 'un! Tried my darndest to free those crux few moves. No luck yet. Oh well. Cheers. Jimbo
  16. Thanks Matt. Going up there tomorrow.
  17. Nice Matt! I was up at 3:00 Rock with the masses.:-) Where did you add bolts to Jacob;s Ladder? Thinkin' about getting on that one again in the next week or two. Cheers. Jimbo
  18. Partner found for Fri. Cheers. Jimbo
  19. jshamster

    Goodbye

    If it's actually true then it is the GREATEST day in cc.com's long & vaunted history. Amen!
  20. Anyone fer Index in the next couple of days. Possible rain tomorrow, sun Friday. Would like to check out all of the newly cleaned action at Lookout Pt/Pvt. Idaho, or whatever. PM Cheers. Jimbo
  21. I realize it's been a couple of weeks, but I think I answered your Kautz question here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/887054/Kautz_conditions_6_7_09#Post887054 My brother-in-law is a climbing ranger up there, so tomorrow evening I could probably have even more current beta for ya. When we were up there the FF looked good, and was getting skied pretty much every day. As I said in my linked post, the Fan approach to the Kautz is highly not recommended. Unless of course you like playing dodge ball with Rainier choss. Cheers. Jimbo
  22. But, last I checked, you do need a NW Forest Pass for Blue Lake parking. You can get that at the ranger station in Sedro Wooley, and probably Marblemount as well. Cheers. Jimbo
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