jshamster

Looks like good news up north, eh. http://www.squamishchief.com/article/20100924/SQUAMISH0101/309249943/-1/SQUAMISH/malamute-bluff-now-protected Doesn't look to open lower malamute, but i'm not sure.

dude. all i'm sayin' is they are sport climbs. walk to base of attractive looking route. send! not much more to it. can actually be fun to not be spoon fed beta once in a while.

you need topos for sport climbing that's not even in the alpine lakes????? weird.

sounds right up my alley. unfortunately, i'm broker than a dead dick dog. have fun, and happy belated birthday. cheers jimbo

Trip: Illusion Wall - The Search for the Holy Grail - 5.10d**** Date: 9/3/2010 Trip Report: In the last year or so a couple of new routes have been put up on Squire Creek Wall in Darrington. With these routes, much more reasonable access to either side of the wall has been created. On the far right side of Squire Creek Wall, Dave & Bill's Slab Daddy has been getting a decent amount of attention since its unveiling last summer, deservedly so. The other modern route on this Darrington big wall, is Chris Greyel's In Search of the Holy Grail. Holy Grail is located on the Illusion Wall, a sub-peak of Squire Creek Wall, on the far left side of the wall. Illusion Wall Having climbed Slab Daddy twice now, and wanting to check out more of what Squire Creek Wall has to offer, sights turned to the Holy Grail. So, Friday the 3rd benmurphy & I went up to the Illusion Wall with bivy gear to see what this new route is all about. We were able to drop our bivy gear at nice flat site on the way to the route, with excellent views of the walls above. From the bivy we made our way up numerous slabs, gulleys and ledges to a rightward traverse along the base of the Illusion Wall. This approach is relatively pain free, with cairns & a fixed rope, in the daylight. It is not so simple in the dark, but doable if you take your time and get it right. Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the actual climbing on the Holy Grail. This is due in large part to the overall sustained nature of the climbing, and because I just plain forgot. The first five pitches are all between 175' & 190', with clean cracks & slab ranging from 5.7 to .10d. There are some wild traverse sequences on both the third & fifth pitches, and really fun knob and slab moves on the whole climb. The sixth & seventh pitches are shorter because of some wandering, but full on quality nonetheless. The sixth has the thinnest tips crack I have ever climbed, if it wasn't on a slab I would not have pulled it off, and the seventh has some cool balance moves and another traverse to anchors. The eighth & ninth pitches the quality takes a dive, but are worth it to make the top of the Illusion Wall. Those last couple of pitches still have some fun moves, but are dirty with a fair amount of looseness. Great views from the top including up Dick Ridge, down into Chickenshit Gulley, out at Salish Peak, and all of the surrounding walls in the Squire Creek drainage. Slab thugs on summit East face Three Fingers Salish Peak Whitehorse makes an appearance. Rapping at sunset. Holy Grail is a fantastic route with long pitches and great, clean rock. New version of Rattle & Slime gives it four stars and I totally agree. Go get some! The next day we headed out to the basin below the east face of Three Fingers to try the Waterfall Buttress route, another newish route in the Darrington alpine. Armed with no topo we ended up climbing a pitch and a half on the wrong side of the buttress, rapping back down to our starting point, and finding the correct line after we had run out of time to climb. Still a cool day of exploring. Waterfall buttress on right. Martha's Place is the big boulder. Waterfall buttress dead ahead. It is pretty much the only piece of rock that doesn't have a waterfall coming down it. Just on all sides. What we climbed. Belay. What we should have climbed. waterfall more waterfall cheers jimbo Gear Notes: 14- 16 draws. include long slings standard d-town rack with emphasis on small tcu/alien type stuff. 2 60m ropes. some of the pitches will use all of the rope. don't take yer chopped 60's. Approach Notes: best to follow approach given in new Rattle & Slime. takes about 2.5 hours.

josh - maybe so, but not there. moquito lk. rd is a loop. hwy 542 to hwy 9. these guys probably just didn't want to drive the extra 30 or so miles to go around the backhoe. i don't blame 'em.

nice darin! heard you had been busy up there. thanks for the topo. i tried to check out that buttress years ago, but lost too much blood to black flies on the approach attempt. cheers jimbo

partner found fer tommorow. thurs. - fri. anyone? slab daddy/roan wall/dreamer/total soul......anything? c'mon, ya know ya wanna! cheers jimbo

Leavenworth for skiing (Stevens Pass), climbing (everywhere), and mtn. biking. Bill, you really need to provide a source for that one. Never heard that before. Oh yeah, no mosquitoes in the city limits of Leavenworth. Ever. Cheers Jimbo

anyone want to get out to Darrington this wed - fri? can do single days or all three. any routes okay with me. classics, obscure or maybe a roan wall/salish peak link up. pm or email - jimboshokesatgmaildotcom cheers jimbo

http://www.inciweb.org/incident/2070/

yeah, sometimes. i currently use the snowpeak giga power (or whatever that tiny cannister stove is called.) Usually leave the door open, and my tent has good ventilation anyway. One of these days I'm gonna make a hanging rig for it. Cheers. Jimbo

Bottom line.....you will not get the answers you seek on cc.spray. if you don't know these guys, you probably won't get any answers whatsoever.

yes

third couloir is a heaping POS if it don't have snow in it. if you do climb it, i recommend taking the rope off to avoid choppage of rope or partner. cheers jimbo

play golf & drink whiskey!

climbed this rig yesterday. fun times! first time on Goose Egg. kinda looser than i'm used to, but fun climbing. that 3rd pitch corner is hard! cheers jimbo

"if you could fill me in on the transition from 7fj to maude that would be great." easy ridge, 3rd or 4th class....maybe. did the n. face of maude a few years back in september. there was 'bout 20 or so feet of mud climbing, the rest decent neve/late season snice. the traverse in from 7fjack col to the n. face was the worst part. lots of hiding under roofs to avoid rockfall. went fast. cheers. jimbo

thanks mark!

nice! 13 pitches total huh? need to bring cleaning supplies? cheers jimbo

Yes. Let's do it. Dooooood!

it's described in Kearney's book. Classics of North Cascades, or something like that. tried to find it once, but failed in a whiteout and rapped scary couliour in desperation to get the fuck out.

If yer into some upper town wall action I would be down. Am looking at Waterway route & Dihedral route on the Diamond. Old school stuff that probably needs some bolt replacement. If yer willing to belay some A3 pitches, there's plenty of easier to be had as well. Great training ground for harder, moderate aid. I'm not available this week, but unemployed, so most days work. pm works best for me. cheers jimbo

nice work gents. any attempt to free the 20th? is f'ing hard imo. haven't heard of any but the route developers using the 6th pitch bivy. felt the same rain in the a.m. on sat. short lived. too bad about the storm later on. i've done it twice now with the bivy on the 11th. looking for the c2c next time. cheers. jimbo