jshamster

It rained 4.5 inches yesterday at the ski area. Even with approaching cold temps, I bet it'll be pretty wet still. Have fun! Cheers. Jimbo

second one be Exasperator.

Thanks!

Zodiac or Mescalito. Climb outside of the Lower 48.

So I don't have the WA Ice book (will pick up soon), and am wondering where Strobach is located. Even a point to where FS1202 is would be great. cheers. Jimbo

Lovers Leap & Tuolumne for a month with Frosty the Tradman. Every route for a month, a classic! On the drive back to B'ham we stopped a Castle Crags...to much smoke. Stopped at Smith Rocks...to much rain. Ended up the road trip with the Dreamer! Pure stoke. Cheers. Jimbo

Definately have noticed the signal loss at the Mt. Baker Ski area lately. Still works on top of Herman. Jimbo

Just to set the record straight, I didn't have to schwack. It was the black flies of August that almost killed me. I swear there were hundreds on me at any one time. Each swat killed 10 or more. As Frosty states, spring would be better. Jimbo

Been there. It's not great from what I've seen so far, but I still think there may be potential. Cheers Jimbo

Can't wait to hear how it goes. Frosty & I certainly had an adventure.

Come on Eric. It's the finesse, mental torture, and running downhill when you fall. Not all that macho thuggery of sprot climbing. Kinda like the alpine choss you've become accustomed to. Cheers. Jimbo

Is that why one of the hangers and chains on Japanese Gardens short is missing? If not, anyone else know why?

Ty & I climbed this in August of last year. Really good route for so close to home! The bridge was out then as well. Easy to cross the river this late in the year.

New England = Maxim I haven't used Maxim ropes that much, but have liked them. Couple of years ago a buddy's double ropes from Maxim seemed to get fuzzy sheath really quick. The single ropes I've seen have help up well.

Did a dayhike of the Blanca Lake trail last Monday. We went as far as the toe of the Columbia Glacier. Conditions are dry, trail is easy. I'm not sure what the routes are up there, but both peaks look like choss piles. Looks like a great place to go in winter! Blanca Lk. pratically glows with glacial silt.

Two ropes & simul-rappel the whole route! Very fast. I have always linked the climbing & rappels of pitches one and two. As CBS states, if you pay attention the flakes will not get you. Cheers. Jimbo

Sure. What do you have in mind? I have most days off for another month or so. Jimbo

Good climbin' with ya Geoff! MattP...nice line. Thanks. Your topo seems much more accurate than the one in Rattle & Slime. Cheers. Jimbo

Check PM's

Alpinfox, thanks for the story! Cool to read about Index history. That second pitch without copperheads? Yikes.

Well, so far I have done the first two pitches. The first belay is one decent 3/8" looking bolt & one horrible relic of a bolt. I went ahead and used these. One more good bolt, and removal of the mank would be good. The second pitch is actually quite easy due to fixed heads and cam hooks. I'm glad we are in the age of copperheads, unlike Pat & Don. As far as cleaning the second pitch, I used a single, new 3/8" bolt that may be the start of the 2nd pitch of Technicians? Tomorrow I think I'll check out Golden Arch as it is way too cool looking when standing right under it! After that I'm gonna check out the upper pitches of Abraxas. All climbing so far has been solo with a Silent Partner. Placed two pins so far. All else has been clean. I have a feeling with a little more diligence the first two pitches could go at something like C3+. Anybody wanna give Waterway a try sometime this month? Wouldn't mind having a partner for that one. Cheers. Jimbo

In fifteen years never even a second glance going North. Coming South I've been searched many times. Always alone, in a gear laden Subaru. Generally the truck crossin' rules! But, now there are delays for construction.

I used to use Koflachs (yellow ones) for my split board. It worked ok as long as I remembered to crank down the laces for the ride down. Now I actually ride in my Trango S boots unless skinning from the car. Then I just use my snowboard boots. Riding in the Trango's takes some getting used to, but it's fine in powder, and that's what the splitty is for, right? To reduce the rubbing on my calves from the highbacks of my bindings I cut the calf portion off of an old wetsuit and wear these when skinning long distances. Hope that helps. Jimbo

Anyone know if the Abraxas anchors and other bolts have been upgraded in the last few years? I seem to remember someone maybe taking on this project, but I could be wrong. I'm gonna go check it out regardless. Just lookin' for more info. Any history of this and other neglected UTW aid routes would be cool too. Cheers Jimbo

Yeah, I shouda been makin' my own by now. Maybe I go into business? Buck apiece? Jimbo