jshamster

Is that why one of the hangers and chains on Japanese Gardens short is missing? If not, anyone else know why?

Ty & I climbed this in August of last year. Really good route for so close to home! The bridge was out then as well. Easy to cross the river this late in the year.

New England = Maxim I haven't used Maxim ropes that much, but have liked them. Couple of years ago a buddy's double ropes from Maxim seemed to get fuzzy sheath really quick. The single ropes I've seen have help up well.

Did a dayhike of the Blanca Lake trail last Monday. We went as far as the toe of the Columbia Glacier. Conditions are dry, trail is easy. I'm not sure what the routes are up there, but both peaks look like choss piles. Looks like a great place to go in winter! Blanca Lk. pratically glows with glacial silt.

Two ropes & simul-rappel the whole route! Very fast. I have always linked the climbing & rappels of pitches one and two. As CBS states, if you pay attention the flakes will not get you. Cheers. Jimbo

Sure. What do you have in mind? I have most days off for another month or so. Jimbo

Good climbin' with ya Geoff! MattP...nice line. Thanks. Your topo seems much more accurate than the one in Rattle & Slime. Cheers. Jimbo

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Alpinfox, thanks for the story! Cool to read about Index history. That second pitch without copperheads? Yikes.

Well, so far I have done the first two pitches. The first belay is one decent 3/8" looking bolt & one horrible relic of a bolt. I went ahead and used these. One more good bolt, and removal of the mank would be good. The second pitch is actually quite easy due to fixed heads and cam hooks. I'm glad we are in the age of copperheads, unlike Pat & Don. As far as cleaning the second pitch, I used a single, new 3/8" bolt that may be the start of the 2nd pitch of Technicians? Tomorrow I think I'll check out Golden Arch as it is way too cool looking when standing right under it! After that I'm gonna check out the upper pitches of Abraxas. All climbing so far has been solo with a Silent Partner. Placed two pins so far. All else has been clean. I have a feeling with a little more diligence the first two pitches could go at something like C3+. Anybody wanna give Waterway a try sometime this month? Wouldn't mind having a partner for that one. Cheers. Jimbo

In fifteen years never even a second glance going North. Coming South I've been searched many times. Always alone, in a gear laden Subaru. Generally the truck crossin' rules! But, now there are delays for construction.

I used to use Koflachs (yellow ones) for my split board. It worked ok as long as I remembered to crank down the laces for the ride down. Now I actually ride in my Trango S boots unless skinning from the car. Then I just use my snowboard boots. Riding in the Trango's takes some getting used to, but it's fine in powder, and that's what the splitty is for, right? To reduce the rubbing on my calves from the highbacks of my bindings I cut the calf portion off of an old wetsuit and wear these when skinning long distances. Hope that helps. Jimbo

Anyone know if the Abraxas anchors and other bolts have been upgraded in the last few years? I seem to remember someone maybe taking on this project, but I could be wrong. I'm gonna go check it out regardless. Just lookin' for more info. Any history of this and other neglected UTW aid routes would be cool too. Cheers Jimbo

Yeah, I shouda been makin' my own by now. Maybe I go into business? Buck apiece? Jimbo

Considering I work for West Marine, I have thought about doing this. Guess I'll just have to go press a few a do some product testing. Oly, I have heard rumours of the route next to Green Drag-On being done in the last six months or so. All heads and hooking? or something. Jimbo

Does MEC, Valhalla or Climb On sell copperheads? Alternatively, any aid climbers have extra they want to unload? Cheers. Jimbo

PETEY-ML-589351-ML- moved to Rockclimbing Forum because this thread is not a BC/Canada Trip Report

To all interested parties that won't/can't go look for themselves. I spent yesterday in the Torment/Boston basins basically just solo rambling. Did half of ridge between Torment/Forbidden, and a bunch of exploring. Then current conditions are great. There is still a good amount of snow everywhere, making access up the Unnamed Glacier very easy. The approach couloir to W. Ridge Forbidden is getting some holes in it, but should be fine early in the morning. Little bit of snow on W. Ridge, but easily bypassed. I didn't climb the first half of Torment/Forbidden travers, but looking back at the snowfields the look STEEP! The hot weather will hopefully kick of one more good slide back there. Have fun out there. Jimbo

Don't listen to these naysayers. I've done Dreamer in snow & in 90 degree temps. All good all the time! Have fun. (Sorry, I can't go. Putting the wakeboard boat in the water!)

The FF Hummingbird . Hands down, the best bag I've ever owned.

Yo Erik. I'd be down with a combo Smith/Bachy trip around that time. I've got a buddy in Bend for crashin' at. I'll be back in the 'Ham in the next couple of days. Let's get a beer.

Just got back from Indian Creek this morning. Holy crap that place is good. Chill vibe, the nicest people of any climbing area I've been to, and SPLITTER!!!!! Weather is cool in the evening, but sending temps during the day. All only a twenty hour drive away!

I stood on two, aiding at Index, yesterday. Sometimes nothing else works.

Reversino seems the way to go, but for now I throw another 'biner into my Reverso. Seems to slow it down enough for my taste. Basically, without the proper friction, the Beal's are scary as hell to rap on.

Beal Ice Line is the shiznit. No others compare. Mammut .