Jens

I will second the palace for breakfast (on main street) and for lunch and dinner, can't beat the tav (1/2 a block off main downtown) You can try some pocket climbing on the carved up brick walls.

With ice season fast approaching and a car being "gear", What are some of your favorite snow/ice/ offroad, etc. driving tips that are not the standard common knowledge tips? ___ And subsequently, I just bought an automatic transimssion rig after drving 5 speeds most of my life. Any unusual auto tranny snow driving tips? -How to more easily rock the vehicle back in forth out of a snow bank, how to better keep steady rpms, unusual times when to use the "3" '2" and "1" instead of "drive"? Anything else? Please kick in your two cents.

My favorites: Classical Mountaineering- Shuksan- Fisher Chimneys Ski tour -Little Tahoma Trad- Squamish's split pillar pitch or Leavenworth's Rotc (tie) Sport- Anything on WWI at exit 32 Alpine rock- girth pillar Ice- Drury falls- Haven't found better in WA, Montana, or Western BC. Bouldering- tons of stuff in the woods below the grand wall of squamish

I accidently left a dark green fold up chair at the 11worth roundup. Anybody grab it?

My vote might be for: If you want to chase numbers, pick a climb and project it for a long time. My hardest redpoint (12+) was simply due to spending many weekends on the same climb. ___ If you siege a climb,you will eventually send it. ____ An old partner of mine (C.P. Little had the most amazing memory for remembering every detail of a climb- it can really help). ___ If you just want a softie, rainy day women at WWI is about the softest "12a" around. _______ I'm weak these days- alpine climbing & beer

The Twight article was one of my favorites I have read in a quite a while. Twight's article certainly makes a strong defense for a few of the posters on this board that are radical extreme -anti rap-bolt. Perhaps those posters should never be edited, moved, or banned, even if they are crazy in their passions against rap-bolting at crags, mountains, and mixed areas - no matter how obnoxious they get?

Has anyone come up with what they think is a really good waterproofing treatment for the leather palms on ice gloves? Anyone care to share? I want something that will: *Keep the leather flexible (even in extreme cold) *Make the palm as waterproof as possible *Not make an oily, waxy, or "siliconey" mess that will get all over my caribiners, cams, & ropes as I may ice climb Sat. & rock climb on Sunday. I don't want any residue at all on my rock gear. *Grips ice tools really well. *Lasts a while Anyone try heating up the leather a little bit first? Anyone try ski wax? snow-seal? Nikwax liquid? Nikwax grease? Biwell? Kiwi dress shoe polish? Waterprrofing sprays? Scotchguard? Mink oil? Camp coat spray? Any other mystery gel? Any other techniques?

It seems like after I get the "dreaded thaw" in my hands during a winter climb my hands stay warmer for the rest of the day. The only problem with getting the dreaded thaw or "screaming barfies" is I'm to much of a wimp to intentionally force it on myself. I'm told that my great grandfather, a Norwegian farmer never wore gloves even while doing chores in the dead of a frigid winter. ___ For leading while ice climbing I like to bring a bunch of thin cheap gloves and swap em out often. for TRing and following, any fatty ski glove will work becase it is way easier. ___ Didn't the legendary Walter Bonatti run around with snowballs in his hands? ------ As for the French shower that Layton mentions it is suppised to be good for recovery. And is it true that one certain young alpine prodigy (who will remain nameless) on this board ice climbs in polypro liners?

What up Greg. I'd be possilby be game to join you. I'm looking for a partner for Sat. I'd check out castle or Midnight/ Noontime. If I roll into bridge creek camp sat. morning at 0-dark thirty will i find willing partners or just people nursing hangovers?

I'll get flamed for this but.... As an avid lift skiier, I'm excited. If I was Paul Allen, Mt. Daniel would make a better area then Blackcomb. Run access lifts up from the lower lot past Cathedral Rock and then Heaven. WA could have the best ski areas in the US, but instead we have to listen to all the CO and UT folks clown on our areas. I'm in the minority on this board with these thoughts. think about launching a tour off a lift or ice climbing in May! And for opposing the Crystal Expansion, who really climbs or goes to get away from it all at crystal?

Everybody has their preferences. For me I, like the ff better then the BD for almost every application Especially 1. Redpointing a heinous crack that you are working where you know the sizes. 2. Onsighting a long enduro crack that requires a monster heavy rack 3. Alpine routes 4. I love the #1 friend and have fallen on that size a bunch. I even took a huge free fall on a #1 that was placed tipped out inside an icy flaring crack in gargbage rock. it was my only piece and saved my life. I had a pack and crampons on. Everybody likes certain gear. I just sold my last remaining camalots. I still use friends I bought in the 87'. Cable units are trashed by then. -just my two cents

BD tried to lighten up the cams but spec charts show them still to be heavy. - I'll admit I haven't held one yet though. All rigid friends should be sent to me for proper retirement and disposal.

Is this stuff starting to flair up at Squamish again? I don't get up there much but remember it used to be kinda bad. Local teenagers?

CC'ers should all have a race to see if anyone can find (and climb) a genuine frozen waterfall before the Oct. 1 roundup. If they can provide pictures, they get a kegstand or a shot of tequilla as a prize. It's gotta be in WA, OR, or Southwest BC. And no verglass or glacier ice. As for me, I'll stay home and drink beer and wait for the pics to come in. I've seen mountain seep waterfall ice here in every month except July and August. don't ask where

It would be cool to have a sport harness made out of these mammut slings--except only have it flare out under the thighs and behind the back for comfort. Imagine having a 3 ounce harness. Harnesses are heavier and more restictive then they used to be. I think Edlinger wore something like a 6 ouncer?

Snoboy, what is enamel? Is it on our teeth? What is it made out of?

The route looks cool and hopefully Roger will redpoint it in November. Yes, the draws have been up for a long time- Anyone know how long(12months?) plus there was a brightly colored rope hanging on it for a very long time. Spring, Summer, & Fall, the only people that walk by it are climbers going to the tooth. The winter situation may be slighlty more delicate because a huge volume of lift skiers (who don't climb go under it and may be offended and complain to powers that be)? Plus we have a lot of rich policy makers & policy makers that lift ski! I left my draws on a sport project for six months once at an area that didn't have any other sport routes by it. For some reason I kinda had a weirdish,bad vibe about it in my gut (it didn't feel right). Hopefully this thing will get redpointed asap and the draws will come down (they are an eyesore in my humble opinion).

Nice pictures. Looks like you guys had fun. I wish I was with you.

One partner mentioned to me that when he leaves on a climb and gives his wife instructions about when to freak out and call in the resuce, he first tells her to call several of his climbing buddies. She is to tell them where he is, what climb he is on, how long he has been gone, and other stuff and then let them assess whether or not to organize a rescue just among themselves or really call in the authorities. For instance, let's say climber "X" slips on a solo climb of stuart and breaks an ankle on perfectly nice summer afternoon. The ankle is broken but he is otherwise completely ok. Why call in the choppers when a few buddies can get him out? Pros: * Keeps the "high risk" image away form the public, news, & insurance people. * Your climbing buddies may be stronger, and faster, then %95 of people that I see out doing rescues. * Pride * Saves the taxpayer money * Let's your spouse think that the situation isn't life or death -because it's not) * Your buddies probably know your habits and the area intimately. Cons *no chopper. ---------- I haven't done the above, but does anybody else do this? It might not be a bad idea for us all to adopt? flame away

Browsing today and couldn't believe to see: -the latest version Lafuma extreme 42 rucsack at Issaquah GI Joes. I have the older Patrick Gabarrou edition and it looks like this new version at GI Joes is slightly less technical. Nevertheless it is still the offical sac of the national syndicate of French Mt. Guides and is worn by the world's best climbers. In my humble opinion, this is the best climbing sac of it's size for sale (at any price) within WA state boundaries. It is going for 79 bucks right but will likely drop to 50 bucks when they liquidate their summer camping stuff? ___ I'll be first to admit though that I haven't demo'd or tried a huge bunch of backpacks.

I'll second---- "Cunning Stunt" @ index "Pop Goes the Tendon" @ tieton "Split Beaver' @ Squamish

I'm glad to hear they are gonna make it. Nice work helping with the resuce. _____ I'm guessing they were on winter solstice? (a nice route). Down very very low there is one low angle face move that is all balance and in the heat and sun it is conceiveable that the leader's shoe rubber or finger pads blew? I often do winter solstice a couple of times on a castle outing and the low face move that I am speaking about seems really out character. I'll bet this is where the guy came off? The belayer earns a purple heart if he gave him a "spot" from there. I wish them a speedy recovery.

I'm not sure but it kinda seems like cascade descents often don' t involve tons of rapping? And if you are bailing in fickle weather, it seems like we do much more downclimbing then rapping? Any thoughts? ---- I've also gone back to a 50m for many alpine routes.-- I recently used a 46m 9.4mm on a day climb of Girth Pillar and thought it was the shit. Also it seems like you can get 50's for really cheap?. I think perhaps the way to go with ropes is to buy cheap and buy often? Anyone have any thoughts? I've seen French climbers use single 100m 8mm duodess cords. I wonder if they like em'?

Dru, what is the name and popularity of the sport crag I stumbled into a ways climber's right Oregon Jack?

Katsuk Peak NCNP? Mt. Formidable -- forMIDabul or FORmidabul My bad on the above spelling