Jens

Cordellettes,equalettes, and daisy chains are lame.

Yikes, while reading the paper today, I noticed that the canadian dollar is crushing our dollar. I wonder if more ice folks from Seattle will chose Colorado or Montana trips over the Rockies? Luckily Lillooet ice is always a baragin. I sure love Banff, but may have to cut down on the number of trips. As for rock, Certainly smith trips over squamish for me.

That sounds good!

Yes, I cut all the shit off my harnesses. I guess it might be a good practice for all of us to frequently spin our belay loops? As a sidenote, their are some brand new sporto-rigs that feature a skinny spectra belay loop. Doesn't that stuff melt at super low temps? When rapping, belay loops get quite hot. But I guess if you are a high end sporto, you don't do much rappelling. What are all those harnesses that the sponsored folk are wearing that have black leg loops with neon green edges?

Nice climbing guys. I must say that "Elvis' Pharmacist" is probably the best route name of all time.

If you want, cascadeclimber & I might be able to show some willis wall video footage and slides. We promise not to be as drunk as we were for our slideshow several years ago.

No, both pairs get worn at the crags and gym.

It'll be interesting to hear more about the Russians ascent of the grandaddy of all peaks. --------------------------------- Even though I'm a sporto myself, sadly I must admit that Dwayner is right on the money with his exit 38 comments. Or at least for all the bolted choss that lies on the south side of I-90, 99% of which has more clips than moves and some of the worst rock of any established crag in America. People that jump between vantange and exit 38 for their cragging are really fooling themselves.

I have two pairs of the exact same shoes that I swap routinely at the gym and at the crags. One pair has been resoled with stealth c4 the other with Oynx. I personally can't tell the difference. ------------------- As a sidenote: The rubber montrail puts on their shoes is worse than the stuff on the shoes when I started climbing. One has no chance of climbing near their limit with montrail rubber.

Amazing. This mediocre route has gone in under an hour.

It has certainly been contemplated by many climbers over the years, including one scheme that inovled an inflatable air mattress.

The methods of British headpointing and trad climbing are a little silly.

Nice!

Thanks.

Does anyone have the beta on a secret beach that is only a short hike from the parking area by the river that you drive down to after climbing at Vantage? Jumping into the water and climbing back out on the rocks by the gravel parking area kind of sucks.

Absolutely any peak in WA could be done in a day. -and- Every route in WA could be done in a day. -Certainly not be me though!

A guide's training program at a college sound's like a joke of a program to me. It must be for those Via-ferratas up at Whistler.

I just had surgery and I'm told my right foot will be way bigger than my left foot for almost a year. Does anyone have just a right footed rock shoe laying around that I could buy? I'm looking for a slip lasted slipper. I wear a size 10.5 street shoe. I just started climbing with a slipper on my good foot and a huge alpine winter rock shoe on my right. I'm looking for something more sensitive for my right foot. I'm in the Seattle area and will meet you anywhere close. thanks so much. Jens

I would have to second the Bonatti book. I really like "Eiger Dreams" by John Krakauer

Inspiring post Mark! Keep at it!

Ultimate Everything- Squamish Condomorphine Addiction Freeway Gun Show Infinite Bliss Riverview park & columns, Corn Wall, Millenium wall- Vantage Treslte area routes- exit 38 Any bouldering areas within 20 miles of North Bend Bolted Routes above Lake Cle Elum out of Roslyn Abiel peak- ice routes Squak Pinnacles rock routes near Blewett Pass

One nice thing about forces on junk gear on really low angle slabs is that the forces are suuuuuuper low.

In my humble opinion: Static Point is the Finest slab climbing in North America outside of the state of California. Certainly better than Squamish's slabs.