Jens

Not to rain on anyone's parade but all the boulering described in this thread is fun but not 3 or 4 star by any stretch.

No that ain't the ethic. One month isn't reasonable. If you are a regular joe that works during the week that could mean only 4 days of rehearsing the route! (One weekend day a week) Yikes, Sharma and others never send their masterpieces that quick! Some areas have seen or heard of cast iron frying pans padlocked to hangers and the like because of route poachers. I guess many of us will have to continue to leave some drilled holes empty until redpoint day.....sad.

The Mazama store rocks! It is always worth a stop.

175 days is quite impressive for a non employee. I talked to a ski guide who said he got 250 days one year. He was working both northern and southern hemispheres. My record is 71 days on skis. I did manage to get 26 days on ice this year.

In my humble opinion, the only places daisy chains are handy are for *big wall techy aid routes. *Cleaning or prepping new routes. Their are better, safer, more versitale, lighter things for all other applications

Newbies, This question will vary from area to area depending on how many visiting road trippers visit. I'd say on average about 7 months for a route at a year round -season sport crag is legit. I've snagged redpoints from climbers who have had to have surgery and the like and then opened them up out of the kindness of their heart. If this guy is that hurt, 2 years? Did he have surgery? That is excessive to hold onto it thaaaaaat long. ------------------- I'll sometimes just leave 3-4 drilled holes empty until I am ready to send the route.

The static rope might snap the harness and possibly break the back of the climber. Go down to one of the shops and buy the 30m BEAL 8mm rope. It is yellow and sells for 59 bucks. It will work on even the hardest routes on Rainier and will also see you through any two man glacier travel. It doesn't weigh a thing. ----------------------- In the Alps, most of the guides only have about 10 feet of rope between them and the clients on even the most nasty of glaciers.

Very sad news indeed. Mizuki had a passion and energy out climbing that was unmatched. I was amazed at her determination whether on ice or rock. ---------- Last fall, Alex K. spent a little time starting to film digital scenes for a climbing film project to be eventually edited. For the first day of filming, Mizuki and I were the climbers. Perhaps some of Mizuki's footage would be a fitting tribute if it could played in her memory at this fall's annual cc.com Leavenworth roundup. --------- She will be missed.

Rudy, you are right a lot of people think this site is a joke but...It has and will continue to be THE Journal of Record for alpine routes in the Cascades. ----

Doesn't Jim Nelson have like over 100 ascents of Stuart (mostly north side routes in all seasons)? I think I heard this third hand. I do remember the climbing or rock and ice magazine bit about the Girth Pillar winter ascent.

Skiied off from 11K on Rainier. Went to the climbing gym.

I say that this thread should be dumped until we get the thumbs up from the access fund.

I say that this thread should be dumped until we get the thumbs up from the access fund.

3 weeks ago when I was climbing there, as stated above, their were some new "No Trespassing" signs right over the trail that was made to keep people away from people's houses. We went anyways but just kept a real low profile. Coming out, right before the mailboxes, a guy stopped and stared at us a while like he was going to call the cops. Luckily worse case scenario, it looks as if someday if the need arose, someone could make a trail a mile or two up or down from the crag that gained elevation and then traversed to the climbing. I'm fairly new to Nason but I would say that the access is as sensitive as ever and perhaps the moderators should delete this post until it gets sorted out otherwise tomorrow morning we will see drones of folks crashing around in people's backyards as thy try to find the crag. ------------ The area is awesome and is perhaps the only area where you don't have to have any footwork skill or endurance to climb hard.

Dru, this is the newbies section, what are you doing lurking around here! ----- Funny satire on my words of wisdom though.

Some random stuff that you may not get from a guidebook as you learn the sport. *Quickdraws clipped to bolts on a route are meant to be left in place. *A red piece of string or cloth tied to a bolt means that the route is in progress and may be dangerous due to uncleaned bolts and temporary bolts. You might get hurt if you get on it. *Whenever you hear the term "mounties" used, the speaker is referring to the "Mountaineers Organization" (it could be any of the branches- Seattle, Everett, Tacoma etc.) It blows me away how many new folks I talk to don't know this. *"Falling!" on a sport route doesn't mean take in or bear down on the rope to hold the fall. * If you want to be cool, avoid; leashes on ice tools, shorts over polypro, helmets on sport routes, snowshoes, daisy chain thongs, and overloaded packs. Spray away!

Man, those Leavenworth U.S. Forest Service Rangers are like no others in the country!

Bring a carton of cigarettes to trade and barter with all the European climbers. You won't need to carry hardly any food or fuel as a result. I've seen some crazy stuff on that mountain.

Well spoken Mr.Noggin.

Anyone? I'd like to hear some other opinions.

One of the most badass climbers of the 80's told me that years ago he got insane blisters on his thumbs because he had to descend from the top of SCW with only a cigarette lighter as a light source. Strike, light, step, repeat. -------------------- They'll be fine as the freezing level is pretty high at night right now. Their is a bivy cave at the top with lots of fir boughs if they need to sleep.

The old packs rode really high. I had a Millet from the 60's that was my dads that didn't even touch the hips. It couldn't carry heavy loads well but high stepping on steep terrain was nice. Try some of the summit day packs like the Lowe alpine attack or the serratus version. All the black diamond packs suck for anyone under 6'2 in my opinion because they only fit people with reeeaaaallly long torsos. And they don't climb well for anyone really. ----------- All in all, the new Millet packs fit people under 6 foot great and climb better than any of the other brands.

OK yes. This is THE WORST PICTURE EVARRR! You look like a squid thats been tossed onto a dry backyard lawn... I dig it! I think we have our winner!!!! Their are at least 18 things wrong with that pic!

I wonder if it is the WTA? I'll bet so.