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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. As for the AF sign, I took it down, relaminated it and hung it back up about 4 years ago. I haven't been out their in 3 years since moving in to the City. The place (spy rock) actually has quite a history. And for you sportos, their are eliminant problems up to V6.
  2. Sad to hear about the cops. ------------- cascadeclimber & I hit banks for a little bit also yestertday. It certainly needs another week of cold. We soloed the punchbowl and then later I led phase transition. The ice was good on both routes. There was a party TR'ing the Trotsky's Folly down low in the trees. We then walked in to go try Zenith but it was spraying way to much for us. A lot of the routes are really close but are exfoliating away from the tops of the cliffs. We saw a group of TR'ers that had set up a rope on the Cable. H202 is leadable but in 5+ or 6- shape but bogus screws. Salt & pepper looks in with the rock start. Shitting razorblades is not getting hardly any water this year. The PeeWees Playhouse area climbs looked to be coming along. --------------- It is really sad to think that the weather people say we are having a slightly colder than normal winter with way more snow then normal and it is already late January and the Washington ice hasn't really kicked in yet. As I get older, The Washington ice season gets shorter and shorter and sometimes only prime for 2 weeks or less.
  3. I saw a hand drawn topo at one of the gyms a long time ago for the lake boulder. ---- In my humble opinion, most of the rest of the north bend bouldering is a pile of sh@#. -JK.
  4. Sweet climbing by the young honemaster! _______________________ my favs of the year. Las Vegas Limestone or Mixed Master final pitch on the Icefields Parkway (ice).
  5. I would have to agree about hanging around. A big ass chunk of the falls came off it once while we were climbing it. When in, though it is a classic. Next door, Cherry ice is a perfect spot to teach beginners and close enough for those nursing Reynolds hangovers. And for you other WA cc'ers, Lillooet is better than Hyalite and I consistently make the drive in sub 5 hours from Seattle. If you buy me a beer I'll give you directions for my shortcut. Oh and buy Don's book! It's really good.
  6. I will have to agree. Classic cc!
  7. Sweet website!
  8. I'll sometimes toss the rock shoes in when heading out to Vantage to see if the ice is in.
  9. As soon as you get back to the car at the end of the day, slather on "climb on" balm. Just before going to bed, slather on more. The next morning, apply 1-2 coats of Krazy glue to your pads. A surgeon told me they use the stuff on people, so it must not be toxic. I used to use tincture of Benzoin many years ago, but I prefer super glue now.
  10. Sweet pics Bill. Vegas trips rock.
  11. I swear by the stuff. You have to take it for a long time though. I used to average a finger injury from tweaky moves about every 8 months. Now I average one about every year and a half. I've been on Glucosamine about five years.
  12. The millets are supposed to be the best. ------------- I assume these are going to be for your Alaska West Buttress climb I read about in the spray section.
  13. Are Shell gas stations doing that 2 for 1 deal this year? I haven't seen anything this year advertised around Seattle. Any other ideas to get deals on lift tickets?
  14. The verizon guy told me the other day that if I am ever on vacation or at a new area for a little while, I should reprogram my cell phone (*2289 send). He said it optimizes your cell phone to best pick up the local towers. Would it then make sense to reprogram your phone at every new parking lot before heading into the mountains? Anyone in the industry know?
  15. The Cody pics are awesome!
  16. Great pics and TR guys! Nice climb. Climbed that with Ben Manfredi(RIP) many years ago.
  17. Another option: 4:52 drive time to Lillooet from Seattle and it is a better ice venue than Hyalite.
  18. The water drainage patterns at marble shift big time from year to year. Left of Dale's route 40 or so feet, a sweet looking mixed line looks in. It would be short, but it looks fun. We didn't get on it.
  19. Great post. Just trying to not lose 50-100 spots by shifting a few more to a slightly different place (clear or expand the shrinking lot) would do little environmental damage. After all, the place has historically had fake indian villages, a golf course, disneyland style go cart track, motorized ski hill (rope tow, and much more. It is said to see access diminishing.
  20. Bring skis and weather watch from home for weeks. Have fun!
  21. OK, this post is just not fair! I'm a loyal Seattle Vertical Worlder for life, but I like ice climbing way more than plastic. I am sure tempted to join Stone Gardens right now! How much just to climb on the outdoor wall! Way to go Stone Gardens!!! -J.K.
  22. I think the VW has been sick of me always using theirs. ----------------------- I've tried most of the tips mentioned above and have had some luck but not the kind of cut I'd like.
  23. Great thread. It has been whatever mood the troopers have been in.
  24. Thanks kurt!
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