Jens

Don't tempt me. ------ To break the speed record of 43 minutes to climb the route, I would guess one would have to do the entire route in one pitch?

I'd guess that 90% of the bolt spray is not about bolts themselves but is about garbage bolted routes like rappell bolted routes in alpine or semi-alpine settings, (ie: mt.garfield, south early winter spire, condor buttress) bolted cracks, or otherwise lame routes. Or at least that is where the spray starts. Granted a couple of folks detest bolts period.

Well done Chuck Norris!

I almost got the chop once walking solo on Rainier's easiest route. I was standing on a couple of inches of snow over a 90 foot cavern. My tidbits: *Rainier's crevasse patterns are harder to read than all the other glaciers in the state. * If you can go on skis, your safety margin will be way higher.

Don't quote me on this but I think it has gone in under 60 minutes from base to top (not counting approach or descent). ---------------------------- Anyone seen the footage of the Late Dan Osaman climbing that route in California that is hundreds of feet (500?) long in only a few minutes? It is on youtube.

Go do one of the V2 pocket problems on the carved brick on the Tav's wall and climbing partners will come out of the woodwork. ---- The Tav in downtown Ellensburg, A great stopover on the way home from banks ice or tieton or vantage rock.

RIP Any cc posters climb with Michael? Solid head for sure. ------------------------- Soloing rock near your limit is every human emotion in one tidy package for sure.

Nice climbing Wayne! What was the traverse from Sherpa to Argonaut on the crest like? I think I've counted like 15 towers with some steep country and like over a horizontal mile. Croft called it the crux.

Anyone know the lightest 2 or 3 section pole available? How much does it weigh?

Congrats!

If one wants to weigh his genitals, here is an answer to your question. It is because you can traverse out from under the serrac danger on Lib wall in about 20 minutes on just steep snow if you get scared and it has about 2% of the rockfall that Willis has. Plus Lib wall has very little rock climbing that slows you down (you can make some fast time with a walking axe in the danger zone). It is all about speed. I was hit by several stones on my climb of willis. One was going terminal velocity and it hit the top of my rucsack. The second was a small bouncer that hit me in the thigh. A lot of whizzers though. I will concede the fact that they both have high serrac kill danger though. ---------------------- I don't know anything about paragliding, but remembering thinking that a launch from the top of the serracs would be about the coolest launch on planet earth.

What is about the lightest fairly rigid 2 or 3 section pole available? I don't want some of the super soft ones that flex to much like some of the really skinny graphite ones. I also can't stand the Black Diamond line of poles either. (Or really any of their stuff). ---------------- Please help anyone. When I recover from my heel surgery, I'll need new poles. thanks so much

Amen.

In reality, the odds are slighlty in favor that this route may not ever get removed (or at least in it's entirity). I guess guys like me and many others that make a stink on this website so that when the new or aspiring climber does this route someday, they will have a bit of knowledge about the controversy of this route. As time goes on and generations pass, the negative history behind this route will never be completely forgotten- Long after web pages and cc.com archives disappear. If you are a newbie wondering what all the fuss is about, realize that their is indeed food for thought. peace out dudes. I'm done with IB spraying.

I think a guy I know at vertical world climbed it in under 60 minutes? ------------------------------- Infinite Bliss has got to be the most controversial route in WA history? Even more than all the bolted on river rock hold routes at fossil rock placed in the eighties.

Anyone have any advice on when to replace the super skinny slings? --- After about 5 years of using the super skinny ones, I'm going back to using slightly thicker sewn slings.

I think their are some very knowledgeable folks on this website that have put many more years on glaciers than me that hopefully will weigh in. --------------------------- Here is my two cents. Some Europeans I have climbed with view skis as almost -but not quite as safe as a rope. -------------------------- I have both fallen in and caught people that have fallen in crevasses on foot but have never known anyone personally (myself included) that has had a bridge break under them when they were skiing down. The key is to hit em' perpindicular even if you can't see them beacause they are covered- read the terrain. That being said, I HAVE had friends crash on skis and slide into crevasses though or misjudge jumping them on go in when on skis. -------------- I'd say have at.

change the word "photographer" to read "friend" at time of ascent

I like the PBR picture. ----------------------- Just to throw this into the mix: What do you all think about photographers at the top of the cliff with bights of rope ready to toss down to the soloist if they start to sketch? And for roped leading, the British gritsone climbers are notorious for this when they are trying to headpoint such routes.

I love playing his minute waltz even though I butcher it bad.

sporto pitch for lounging with your friends- 34 meters

I've seen that maneuver at quite a few sport crags. Sadly, it is non-verbal language that "I am the honemaster and I don't want to wait for you". ---------------- Interestingly enough, it seemed like it used to be considered cool to be as rude as possible if you were a high end sport climber at any major sport venue like smith and the like in the 80's and early 90's. Negativity was the inspiration for many a redpoint. I'm glad that trend has mostly disappeared.

How do you guys draw on a picture like that? Despite the patterns being a little different, I'd draw in the approx.line Loren and I took through the serracs last year.

skiing and piano for me

They dropped the ball on dishing Ray to Boston.