ryland_moore

Instant cheese cakes are the schizzle! We made plenty of friends on Denali with them last year and even helped folks celebrate their birthdays. Plus all the squeeze butter helps for energy. Tasty Bites Rock, but are getting rediculously expensive (I saw $4.50 i nthe grocery store). Instant grits, mashed potatoes, pasta at lower elevations, and any type of burritos you can imagine. To cut down on fuel if out for a long time, think of using a small pressure cooker. Heavier than normal pots, but cooks rice and beans and real grits super fast! Don't take pasta if going to high elevations 15,000+ as it turns to goo, and what truely makes a meal is the condiments. You can stomach anything with some tabasco, garlic powder, olive oil and butter anyday!

There was a thread on this in the AK section last year for people wanting to do Denali. I made my own sled for Denali and it stayed together well. Instead of PVC (which I broke the joints while skiing in the crud with heavy weight in the sled, I used 1/2 " aluminum and used a bar bender instead of joint to link the middle to attach the two aluminum 1/2" waist bars in the middle of the sled, I took a 3/4" tube and slid the 1/2" inside and drilled two holes for each 1/2" piece. Seriously bomber, never broke under the heaviest of weights and I skied with no problems except when I wanted to make big turns and going fast, then the sled would sway a little too much to the sides, but still never tipped. I did use a longer sled so that my weight in the sled was more spread out and less top-heavy which also seemed to help with not ever tipping over. The benefit of using a bar bender instead of joints is that on each trip you can adjust it to what you want. Want more stability? Just bend the bars to cross. Want something a little more versatile? Bend them back to parrallel. PVC sucks IMO and bamboo would never work unless you were pulling only the sled and no weight.

Plus, if I remember correctly (only TR'ed it once and flailed like a greased pig) the laast bolt to the chains is fairly easy compared to the super thin crux sections below?

I think the difficulty would be that by the time SH melts out, the Road to Adams is just opening...

Alot of folks who do the extension deliberately fall right at the top instead of clipping at the anchors for the extra rush of a huge, albeit safe 40 fter. He may have just been packing up because he was finished and leaving.

The Skydive variation is also fun. Goes at 10c and instead of doing the traverse for the second pitch you head straight up.

Anyone done S. Side and Worm flows in a day? Thinking of doing it with skis. WOrth the effort? Seems like if you summitted Hood around sunrise and skied down then hopped in the car and made it to St. Helens say 11am, you could easily skin up and summit and be back before dark, right?

So.......when is it gonna happen? I'm jonesin to get out there!

Taking a newbie up this weekend and don't feel like bringing a rope and pickets. Any problems with the shrund? I doubt it is even showing, but would like to make sure there are no issues getting around it.

Heard they cancelled the icefest in Canmore b/c all the ice fell down!

I voted once. I've been in a strategic planning session the last two days at the Kennedy School and have not even looked at the puter till now. I still have to go to the 9pm one, but could meet you all somewhere after.

Dirty Dave, Here is one that would be right up your alley

I talked to them last night. Can't pre buy any tickets until 30 mins. before the first showing. Meaning that if you buy a ticket at 6:30pm, you can choose between the 7 pm and 9:15pm showing. Unfortunately, I will only be able to make the 9:30pm showing, but I at least hope that yuo Sallys are still having a few cold ones at 11:30 pm on a weekend and I can meet y'alls after. Happy B-Day Mike!

A week from today, the Touching the Void film premiers at Cinema 21. Anyone up for turning this into a pub club and drink a few beers in honor of Joe Simpson's crawl to survival?

I think you may have thought you were there, but after the triple, one has to question. Thanks Pete and Steve. Had a blast!

Need directions to Pete's as well. 971-645-1515

Since I just moved up here I hope someone can call me on my cell phone with directions. I'd like to come up being that I just moved to PDX and all. I am leaving my computer so could you call me at 971-645-1515 with directions? Thanks. Ryland

I think that Letterman seemed to bring up a good point in that he was interested in the movie and sat on the edge of his seat not because it was a movie about climbing, but about the will to live and how the human body goes into another gear when fighting to live. Comparing this film or book to any other story of survival or expedition and adventurte when something goes terribly wrong is what will keep non-climbers attention.

I was also pleasantly surprised. Letterman had some excellent questions and seemed to have done his research, rather than trying to be comical about it. Can't wait to see the movie in Portland, although his books are all pretty amazing.

Where is Brad Johnson's slideshow going to be?

The head of the Crux climbing gym in Eugene said he has climbed ice out there. I will ask him for more specifics. Could be a good side trip if going to ski in the STeens!

It seems that the closure is due to environmental reasons and that the areas to be closed are too sensitive for human access. It stated in the press release and in the EIS that the areas to be closed to the public will only be open for scientific research on a periodic basis.

It is still a little unclear, but it appears that the department in charge of National Parks in Peru will indefinately close access to many major climbing routes in the Cordillera Blanca, including routes up Huscaran, and others. For more information, try to get a hold of the latest copy of the American Alpine Club's most recent newsletter. Anyone have direct text with the interview conducted with a Preuvian Ranger trying to explain the closure using triple negatives (seriously, read the article)? It is rather confusing to say the least, but it appears the access ban will start in 2006/2007.

To make a long story short, someone pm me with their e-mail who'd be willing to upload this photo I received from a friend of the dude that climbed in the area, so it can be attached or uploaded to a URL. I do not have any photo enhancing software and therefore cannot make the image smaller (it is huge). I cannot figure out where on the falls this photo was taken. There are trees above the climber, but I cannot tell where they are. To the right of the main falls? Maybe Iain's pic was taken after or before the right side formed? Your thoughts?

I'm definately there. What's the occassion?