Dru

screamers on each piece man!

WA Pass stuff like clean Break

Lets say your individual sucky pieces will hold 6, 8 and 9 kn. Climber falls and exerts 15 Kn of force at an angle to the anchor. Three way sliding X puts 5 kn of force on each piece... you both live because nothing pulls. "Regular" equalized-with-a-big-knot cordelette loads asymmetrically and puts all the 15kN on one of your three pieces...which blows...then the next...which blows...then the third... RIP you. This is more or less the purported scenario from the Tahquitz accident. Sliding X is not perfect for the resons you note, but does have its place as in the scenario I just described. A blanket condemnation of a belay anchor technique which under some circumstances is the safest thing to use, serves no one well.

but so much fun when they happen to your partner!

it distributes the force evenly so is less likely to max out any one piece and cause the first failure in the cascade of failing pieces

Agreed, since I got Reverso I stopped using a Pyramid and now need only 2 hands.

"within earshot"? its way, way easier to traverse high and cut off the edge of the triangle than to follow the creek all the way.

If the anchors are poor it may be better to equalize and distribute force than to sequentially weight and pop. It was suggested that the accident resulting in 2 deaths earlier this year on Tahquitz would have been avoided if the belayer had been using a sliding X rather than individually anchored to each piece. Certainly this is less relevant when anchor is a nice sport bolt pair but still worth knowing.

That's exactly what happened during the middle years of the Roman Empire. The newly conquered territories, for the most part, didn't put up much of a resistance because they knew they would be better off as a Roman province. Up until the Christian era, provinces were allowed to worship their own gods and have their own cultures as long as they paid taxes to the Empire and acknowledged the Roman gods. Even some of the barbarian tribes, specifically the Vandals and Visigoths, just wanted to be accepted as Romans. year 52 roman empire. These guys didn't want to accept shit. The revolt in Gaul, in which tribes for the first time acted in concert, had soon taken hold of half the country. ... Vercingetorix detested the Romans..... He represented the national cause. He was joined by many tribes - the Senones, Parisii, Pictones, Cadurci, Turoni, Aulerci, Lemovices, and Andes... The gallic army invaded the Roman province of Tansalpina.. set fires to towns that could not be defended. damn gauls! "These Romans are crazy"

why didnt you just tie a huge knot in the trail line and jam it in the crack? that'd learn 'em far faster than some scolding from an aggro chica.

the atc is not recommended because you really need 3 hands to work it when belaying 2 at once. danger danger sketchbirdseat

compare fatswaller post to alex post your choice of beta and grades!

howe did you guess

1) cool fall temps and early season alpine ice. snow on many higher peaks. 2) butterflies in bangkok flapping their wings 3) its going to be colder than here

so where on multipitch sport are the anchors placed below the ledge then? and why was his example using Vantage, archetypical single pitch crag?

Vote _Nodder

They haven't forgotten Osama they have him in double secret confinement waiting for his capture to be trumpeted 5 days before the election to help out Bushie Jr. with the last minute polls.

can't you make it flash red and blue?

If the bolts are below the ledge it is because you are supposed to LOWER OFF not sit around belaying at the top.

I think you should climb the Willis Wall. With freshiez and cold temps it should be primo for a new human-dog speed record!

what would you do if an otter chewed off the No Tea of your _nodder?

if you practiced rapping off hooks like in the "ball of twine" thread you would know rap slings are superfluous to the lightweight speed climber anyway

I've got a purple helmet

99% of the people anchoring on a sport route will just use 2 regular quickdraws. but back to your question.... the two quickdraws will not equalize whereas the magic x will. if the climb traverses at all below the anchor instead of being straight up and down, then there may be a point where you have unequal weighting of the draws or even all the force on one draw. in this situation the sliding X would be stronger even though not as redundant. so yes it is 6 of one half dozen of other.

why do you guys even open spam to read it?