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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. ...and yet they managed to beat the USA at Olympic basketball...
  2. i mark mine with a bloodstain where the last snaffle to attempt to chew on the rope met his/her demise
  3. Dru

    Ice screw length?

    get 2 screws not 1
  4. Another source told me that the guy who originally tipped me off to the talking points about the catalogue mentioned above, has been detected as an informant by MEC management who are continually monitoring this very website (I believe they use the user names Dan_Howitt and 007). Apparently he is now enjoying a new role as a product tester in Tuktoyaktuk
  5. It's harder than the sidewalk from Starbucks to Murraysovereignco. storefront, and its for sure easier than driving the Unimog off the top of Burgers and Fries and doing a flip on the way down.... alpine AV (assez vegetative)
  6. Climb: Alpaca Pk-Al-Pika Slabs Date of Climb: 9/6/2004 Trip Report: Thurs night: drove to Wall Cr trailhead area Fri AM; encountered berdinka & friend at trailhead. Exchanged lies about destination. Lugged huge rack of chimney and aid gear in to Wall Creek Meadows. Stupid. Fri PM: clouds and wet. Sat in tent. Sat: hiked insane amounts of gear to base of 5-pitch line. Hail and sleet. Hiked gear back to tent. Interesting encounter with all-camouflaged frame pack man Camp fire. Rain started late afternoon & continued all night. Sun: sat around debating whether to bail. fresh rime ice and cold winds sealed choice. Increasing sun and warm weather as hiked out. Encountered Berdinka & Ty at cars again - they made same call to bail. Felt better after that. Drank beer. Ate dinner. Drove convoluted route to point south of Merrit. Mon: alarm at 6. Up at 7. Breakfast. Bushwack & hike slowly thru boulders to base of NE face of Alpaca. Climbed a pitch here 10 years ago with John Simms, had always meant to come back and finish route; today was finally the day. P1: clean corners and wet rock to belay. Fun traverse. P2: Mer practices vertical gardening, finally traverses long clean slab runout to belay. P3: Wandering around, lots of edges, not much pro to speak of. p4: 65m of glacier polish, thin flakes and low angled offwidth. Fun. P5 simple and short. Also the textbook #10 hex placement was found. Hike to summit. Descend (too long). A bit of rain starts after we are back at the van. Sort of a nice consolation for 3 days of playing alpine Sherpa to an oversized aid rack in bad weather.... This route is on good rock but has vegetation issues. Green thumbs and winter mixed climbers encouraged to repeat. look for the killer peregrine dismembering a pika in midair! Gear Notes: Way too much gear. #1 copperhead to #4 Big Bro Approach Notes: Wall Creek and Coldwater River roads.
  7. Petzl Meteor type foam and thin plastichelmet is great for absorbing blunt impacts (round type rock or dropped biner); not so great for absorbing sharp type impacts (spinning Frisbee style chopper flake in alpine or sharp icicle detatched by leader on WI-sketch curtain). But really I wear a Edelrid ultralight cause its the only thing that fits my XXL head not cause of its improved stopping power.
  8. had to simul 5m on a 65m pitch today, would have been 15m simuling or a very shitty intermediate belay at 35m with 50s, i'll take the 60 thanks could have done it without simul with a 70.
  9. Speaking of semantics you say "fresh snow....OTHER THAN THAT no iciness" I was pointing out that there might be more freshiez than there was on Monday.
  10. Floating implies passivity. Swimming implies deliberation.
  11. Freezing level for Osoyoos and eastern Cascades is reported as 1700m/5500' today.
  12. Otters do not float per se. They swim.
  13. I am sprayer_than_you The OTTER? Oh my god. Something is wrong with this otter. It seems so scaly!
  14. on the other hand if you get a core shot 30m from one end you can still salvage a 110m rope out of it!
  15. yOu can wear a helmet at Vantage but it isn't gonna help much if the whole column you are bear hugging topples like positive vibrations did.
  16. The Negro Lesbian and the Black Dyke.
  17. On the same subject I am once again gathering images for the "Stone Nudes of cc.com" 2005 calendar. Ladies please PM me with your image submissions. Or also PM me if you need help being photographed.
  18. News from Supertopo.com is that "in order to enforce the Camp 4 time limit more effectively (and thereby enable more people to experience Yosemite), the campground office is tracking visitation in Camp 4 with a computer system. As of..well, now, in order to stay in Camp 4 each camper must provide a valid photo ID (Driver’s license, passport, etc.), phone number, and address. Once you have stayed in the Campground seven nights (any seven nights over the course of the summer), that’s it, no more. Sorry, time for someone else to enjoy the Valley." Previously, it was common behaviour to sign in under different names to get around the 7-day limit.
  19. make your partner carry 140m of 8.1
  20. So they are not gonna be in your new guidebook then
  21. Even SCientific American said Bush was anti-science.
  22. great white feeding time is at 7:00 AM
  23. not impossible - but difficult if you are facing the cliff alright!
  24. I would tell you to ABSOLUTELY not get on Lillarete this late in the year. The traverse around the Gnomon is real sketchy without snow cover. Go in june, not September. Also getting down the descent gully might be very icy. There may or may not be water around. I wouldn't bet on it. The ground is all pumice and is very rapidly drained. Best bet is to look near the base of the couloir between stoltmann buttress and fantastic wall. you may have to chip and melt ice.
  25. Dru

    arrrggghh

    crunching ice cubes correlates well with anemia. buy her a nice bloody rare steak.
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